This is the back-breaking, dirty part of the project. I first put both
axles up on jack stands then strip them down to the axle tubes. Depending
on the condition (and these axles were good), I leave the differential and
carrier in the housing. |
I started by pulling the front hubs and drums. Once again, I was pissed
to find huge, non-stock, wheel cylinders. Apparently the previous owner
couldn't find the correct cylinders, so he enlarged to mounting holes (see photo
below). This effectively ruined all four backing plates! |
Above you can see the correct wheel cylinder in the enlarged hole the
previous owner made. I will attempt to fix the holes, or buy four new
backing plates. |
To pull the rear drums, you WILL need a hub puller. Don't be cheap on
this and try to make a hub puller like me (see below). |
My redneck hub puller is on the right |
I think I spent more time making a puller than it did to pull both
drums with the correct tool. I bought my hub puller off Ebay for $60.
The instructions recommend using 5 legs for Jeep drums, but I was successful
with 3. After pounding on the puller for what seemed forever, the hubs finally popped
off. |
With most of the axle parts off, I cleaned and prepped them for a coat of
POR-15. |
Christmas came early today! I received a bunch a parts that I
ordered last week. All new brakes, springs, shackles, and u-bolts. |
The axles were cleaned and painted and received new
bearings and seals. They were then bolted up to the springs (see the
axles meet frame section). The
shocks are vintage Gabriel shocks I found on Ebay. |
Eugene was treated to all new tie rod ends and hardware! |
My four new
backing plates arrived in the mail and they were quickly clean and painted.
They were then bolted up with all new hardware. |
Eugene then
received all new brakes.... |
...and the
cleaned, painted, and turned drums were bolted up. |
Everything
was repeated for the front. Now is a good time to start running the
new brake lines! |
The hubs got
a good cleaning and polishing and were installed along with brand new lug
nuts. Yes, even new lug nuts....I know...it's a sickness! |
My yellow lab
Anna gets pissed that I spend more time in the garage than with her!
She will just lay there and glare at me. |
Ever wonder
what's actually inside that Ross steering box? I opened mine and was
glad I did. One of the pins that follows the worm gear had worked
itself loose. I welded it back in and ground it down. |
Here is a
close up of the worm gear and you can see one of the pins that follows it. |
Now it was
time to install the brake master cylinder, pedal, and brake lines.
Once again, all new parts were used. |
This is
another angle showing the newly installed steering box and column. |
Even the
original clips were used to install the new brake lines. |
I've seen
brake lines run several ways on the rear axle, but this is how I chose to do
it. |
Here is a
shot of the new "S" lines on the front axle. |
After running
the rear lines, I moved to the front. Once again, all new lines were
used and installed just the way the factory did it. The only incorrect
item is the type of hose clamp. |
Here's a good
shot showing the front end with the running of the brake lines over the
pumpkin using original hardware. |
Now was the
moment of truth! I bled the master cylinder by running two brake lines
out of the front and back into the reservoir filled with fluid. By
gently pressing the brake pedal, this will purge the cylinder of air.
Then I bled the rest of the system. All that's left is adjusting the
brakes. |
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