'49 CJ3A "HONDO"

[Rus Curtis]

I didnt get a chance to measure a lever but 5.5” sounds about right. The long one is considerably longer than that.
  Oil in the crossover tube and air horn is a sign that the PCV system isn’t working. Whistle on deceleration is almost certainly a vacuum leak. If your PCV system isn’t complete and working properly it could explain both problems.
BW

To piggy back on Bruce's post, here's a couple of old posts showing the multiple arms possible:

https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/cj3b_bulletin_board/viewtopic.php?p=44512#p44512

That first post I made has a link that won't work anymore.   Had to dig, here's that original post from Charlie (good read):

https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/cj3b_bulletin_board/parking-brake-help-t4308.html

Hmm.  I replaced the screen and rubber seal on it.  I did notice a exhaust leak right at the down pipe wonder if that is adding to the issue?

You've got a flat head in your jeep.  IIRC all the PCV plumbing is on the left side so easy to access and illustrate.  When you say "screen and seal" the first thing I think about is the Crankcase Ventilator Body (bell shaped attachment sticking out from the valve cover with a bolt through the center).  That's only the start of the ventilation system.  Follow that tube to the PCV valve.  It can be disassembled and cleaned.

F-head (with PVC valve parts):
http://cj3b.info/Tech/PCV.html

From above I believe this is the L-head illustration:
http://cj3b.info/Photos/Tech/ServiceBulletins/Bulletin508p3.jpg

The system won't work if that valve is clogged. 

If you post images of what you have, it would be easier to identify what may be going on.  My filler tube goop disappeared after I fixed the PCV and fixed the dipstick seal.

[Shark49]

Percy,

No sir.  I ended up doing what you suggested and that was the trick.
-Nate

[Shark49]

I think mine only has the road draft tube on it.  NO PCV

[Rus Curtis]

I think mine only has the road draft tube on it.  NO PCV

This topic has been covered a few times on our old forum pointing to draft tubes usage on vehicles other than CJs/ military. 


See my link above on the PCV article on the CJ3B Page.  The first section discusses the draft tube.


Here's a few images of the tube in place (Note: the valve cover is rotated 180 to position the tube in back):

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/interesting-l134_topic46087_post463086.html?KW=down+draft+tube#463086
(good image of L-head but odd angle position.  If I were to guess, I'd say installer was trying to improve puddle or creek clearance)

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/my-first-jeep-not-sure-about-the-engine_topic35058_post330235.html?KW=down+draft+tube#330235
(scroll down to very last image showing F-head tube - in the correct position)




Have you been able to find the engine serial number on the flat boss above the water pump?

[Shark49]

I have never looked for the number.  Didn't think it was necessary since it runs.  The tube on mine is to the rear and straight down.

[Shark49]

Took it out for a spin and its driving great.  The whistling sound has diminished.  Almost like the heat from engine has swelled all of the metal to get the gaskets tighter lol.  When I parked it I noticed some oil dripping.  I tightened the oil pan which had some loose nuts but I also noticed this little hole in the bottom of the bell housing leaking tranny oil.  small little drips. I couldn't find anything in my service manual. Is this little hole supposed to be plugged?   If not why is oil seeping out?  Over filled?  The oil is a bit dirty so Im going to change it out tomorrow.  See pic.

[Rus Curtis]

As I understand it, the hole is there so you can see the oil drip (and let water run out after a creek crossing) vs. possibly having a puddle inside coating your clutch.  Smell it.  Gear oil has a "burnt" smell to it - very different from engine oil.

If gear oil, it's most likely coming from your transmission input shaft.   

If it's engine oil, then the likely cause is the rear seal.

You could probably monitor it for a while using cardboard to catch the drips and check the transmission or engine level regularly.  I've known driver's having to top off after each ride.

If your gear boxes are overfilled, there should be a breather on the transfer case and the overfill will spew out of that and coat everything (had that happen).

[Shark49]

yes it definitely gear oil.  Im going to change it and see how it goes. 

[Shark49]

Shark49,
Welcome!  Nice procurement!  How much do you know about its history?  When I see the straps across the w/s vent, the first thing I think of is M38.  Is that windshield a possible M38?

Good progress so far!  If I may, a suggestion on #3.  If you want your steering box to last, you'll need to use gear oil vs. grease.  Some swear by 140 but I pulled the trigger and went back (originally grease - with all worn parts) with 80W gear oil (GL-4 or less).  I did find some leaks but fixed those.  I did, however, use grease to stick the loose bearings in place until I got the Tube and Cam set in place.

I assume If I use the same gear oil I'm using in the tranny this will be good?  I plan on installing the tight steer while I have my jeep up.

[Rus Curtis]

The currently available Service Manual (SM 1002-R6) lists MIL-L-2105B (I looked this up and as best as I can determine it is equivalent to API GL-4) or just GL-4 for most gear applications.  Going beyond GL-4, ie. GL-5 etc. puts the shear additive too high to be safe for yellow metals.

This does not take away from the accuracy of the earlier Willys manuals that call for straight mineral oil or GL-1 etc. 

I simplified the number of gear oils I needed to stock by using GL-4 85W-90 for all the gears, including differentials, since that gear oil is safe for everything.  The only deviation is I used GL-4 140w in the knuckles (SM states GL-3 but the GL-4 is what I could find) since my axles had been changed.  This gear oil is specified in SM 1046 where all knuckles were now Spicer (cardan cross) vs. the CV versions in the earlier jeeps.

So, after more words than probably necessary yes, the same oil in the steering gear as the transmission should be okay. 


AFAIK, changing the gear oil in your transmission won't affect the leak.  However, if you have no idea how long that oil has been in there, changing it could be a wise move.  Eventually, when you have time, separating the transmission from the bell housing to see exactly what is leaking would be good.


Hang on to your steering adjustment screw/lock nut (keep it safe) as you may or may not want to go back to it after running the tight steer.

[Shark49]

Man the fluid in the tranny was brown like chocolate milk!  I drained both and refilled with some nice GL-1 Gear oil I found at Napa.  Did the rear differential today and it wasn't much better but ran out of oil.  Once I finish that its on to the front differential and coolant.

Also getting a battery drain of about .6 amps with key off so I am thinking the ammeter(brand new) is wired incorrectly or a wire is touching and grounding out. Argh.  That wiring link Russ linked is really helpful though.  I should have bought a volt gauge instead.

Btw, just noticed the exhaust manifold has the pcv still connected but plugged off.  So it has that AND the vent tube.  Go figure....

Ordered a Willys works alt bracket, radiator hoses and header bolts and gaskets from KW.  I think this thing eats more money than a boat!  lol

[Shark49]

So based on my experience with my '61 pickup, I just pumped gear oil into my tranny until it came out the fill hole.  I probity put in about 2.5 quarts. Now its leaking in tow spots.    One spot is that same little tiny hole in the bell housing and another is somewhere at the emergency brake housing.  Aren't they supposed to be sealed?  Maybe I need new pinion seals or did I is ply just over fill it?

[Shark49]

Another question,

Today I took the jeep for a spin and stopped at a friends to say hi.  When I tried to start it to leave it wouldn't start.  Great spark but dry plugs.  Plenty of fuel pressure and looking down into the carb I noticed a puddle of fuel at the bottom of the carb in the intake.  What would cause this?  Lack of vacuum?  I had to remove a plug and spray starting fluid in a cylinder and it fired right up.  I wonder if this has to do with the draft tube?

[Rus Curtis]

So based on my experience with my '61 pickup, I just pumped gear oil into my tranny until it came out the fill hole.  I probity put in about 2.5 quarts. Now its leaking in tow spots.    One spot is that same little tiny hole in the bell housing and another is somewhere at the emergency brake housing.  Aren't they supposed to be sealed?  Maybe I need new pinion seals or did I is ply just over fill it?

I suspect your transmission/transfer case may have some seal issues.  Filling it up to the fill hole is how you do it. It may be nearly impossible to "arm chair" without pulling some things to see.  FWIW, I took apart my hand brake assembly 3 times before I fixed the leak.  Then I found another at the bottom of the transmission from a stripped bolt. There's a guy on the 2A forum that had a leak on one of his jeeps.  He didn't want to /have time to fix it right away so he rolled up an absorbent pad and laid it on top of the skid plate to "diaper" the gear box until he could work on it.  Use some cardboard to see how bad it is.  That will tell you whether you can take short drives or long drives.

Today I took the jeep for a spin and stopped at a friends to say hi.  When I tried to start it to leave it wouldn't start.  Great spark but dry plugs.  Plenty of fuel pressure and looking down into the carb I noticed a puddle of fuel at the bottom of the carb in the intake.  What would cause this?  Lack of vacuum?  I had to remove a plug and spray starting fluid in a cylinder and it fired right up.  I wonder if this has to do with the draft tube?

I've flooded mine a few times.  A puddle typically indicates too much fuel, i.e. flooding.  I've mostly just let it sit or crank with the throttle wide open to give more air.  Taking the plugs out and turning can speed that up.  I've also sprayed starter fluid right down the carb hole into the manifold on a few occasions to get it started.   Having a draft tube will eliminate back pressure in the block but may not help much with condensation (my preference would be to get the PCV system working and remove the draft tube).  I would initially not think a vacuum leak (around carb) as you have a puddle - it makes me think you're too rich or pumped the pedal too much during starting.

Scoutpilot (and nearly everybody else!) will be better at carb issues than me.

[Shark49]

The crazy thing is when I emptied it originally quite a bit came out so its weird that its leaking but then again what was in it was this super thick sludge.  Its probably the output yokes on either end.  argh