'49 CJ3A "HONDO"

[Shark49]

So this is what I got from KW and not sure how to connect it.  I actually found some wires in the wire harness kit for the park lights and blinkers.  Do I solder two wires to each one?

[Rus Curtis]

I had to go to the KW website to look for those.  They are advertised as for the recessed parking light.  I think that is the style that sits behind the radiator guard on a mount that's 90 degrees to the hole.  Someone with a 2A or 3A that has that type would need to verify or correct.

Approaching this piecemeal - in this way will make this more difficult.  I went back and looked at your first post.  It looks like you have parking lights that protrude out from your radiator guard.  Possibly after market.  You stated in an earlier post today that you ordered a new set of lights from KW.  Was that post referring to these sockets?  From their online catalog, I see several recessed styles.  The LH and RH appear to differ only with the length of the wire.  Then there's the recessed light set up for the dual filament bulb and then of course the later style.

It would help if you posted some images of those lights you intend to use; either the ones on your vehicle (from the first post) or the replacement KW lights - off your vehicle - so it would be easier to see if you have what you need.  I can't tell from what I've seen so far.  For me, if the lights themselves are replacements from KW they had better come with the socket and connectors ready to hook up - like what I see in the images on their site. 

Specifically though, that part from KW is a spring loaded socket for a bulb. Since one wire goes in from the back (not sure how it makes contact with the bulb), it will require a single contact/single filament bulb.  A dual filament bulb would need two wires and two contacts.  Also, the slots on the sides of the socket for the bulb bayonets for a dual filament are typically offset so there's only one way to insert the bulb (ensuring the correct filaments are aligned with the correct wires).  I've never seen the inside of a recessed parking light so I can't even guess how that fits. 

On a related note, as much as they may be trying to help, these vendors will sell you an incorrect part having listed it as, "Correct for your vehicle," without any regard to some changes for that particular model or any consideration for a previous owner (PO) swapping a different part in from another vehicle to make something work (making the ordered part that's "correct" incompatible).

[Shark49]

the park lights from the first photo of my jeep were the plastic auto parts store junk stuck on with two sided tape. My grill has the cups in it vs the larger hole to fit the lights.  Almost like the grill acts as the housing.  I originally purchased the park lights with the angled back but they don't fit.  I was told this kit was what is for that grille and would have to solder the wires but not sure how that socket stays in the grille... 

They also sell a light that has the connectors straight out the back but wasn't sure if it would fit the cup and trying to avoid shipping costs etc.

[Shark49]

After further review I believe I have a cj2a grille. My jeep must be a very early CJ3A.

[Rus Curtis]

Yes,

Initially, I thought you were describing this type:
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/parking-light_topic3207.html

Again, guessing but I believe the above is a "bullet" style and for the earlier 2A's (similar to military).

 I've seen more images now that may indicate at least '47 and '48 (maybe more) before the lights switched to what eventually showed up on the 3B.

I did find a thread describing that socket:

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/parking-lights-front-grill-1947-cj2a_topic47531_post480952.html?KW=parking+light+socket#480952

Look at this image from Walck's showing the part disassembled:
https://walcks4wd.com/Socket-Parking-Light-All-1946-49-models-and-1949-53-CJ3A-_p_837.html

Also this thread:
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/parking-light-connection_topic41890_post410234.html?KW=parking+light+socket#410234

indicating a possible nub on the end of the wire. See my parking light wires (had to get those extra from VW) but they're available (and if needed, KW SHOULD HAVE included them!).

I can tell you have an insulator on the back (the brown fiber disc that the wire threads through).  See if your wire, insulation and all will slip through that sleeve in the center.  If it does, I'd assume the wire needs a contact nub on the end.  If only the stripped wire fits, then perhaps soldering directly to that sleeve is correct (not sure).  If that is true, I'd be concerned though about the heat.  Either way, the best way to solder is to "tin" the wire first so that when inserted (nub or sleeve on the socket) once the heat gets to it, you're not having to fill in with solder - its already on the wire.  Cleaner too.


Here's what someone else did with a modern socket:
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/lighting-questions_topic41309_post401110.html?KW=parking+light+socket#401110 

I hope someone on this forum has a light like that and can share a good "how to" with images. 

Good luck.

[Bruce_W]

  What you got from KW are correct for CJ2-A’s, 1947 and up. I dont know about 3A’s, I dont have one.
The socket goes into the hole in the grille from the back. The hole should have a pair of “teeth” to hold the socket, kind of a reverse version of the bayonets on the bulb. The teeth have been removed from your grille’s holes, and I suppose the holes may be oversized as well.
BW

[Rus Curtis]

  What you got from KW are correct for CJ2-A’s, 1947 and up. I dont know about 3A’s, I dont have one.
The socket goes into the hole in the grille from the back. The hole should have a pair of “teeth” to hold the socket, kind of a reverse version of the bayonets on the bulb. The teeth have been removed from your grille’s holes, and I suppose the holes may be oversized as well.
BW

Bruce, thanks for jumping in with missing information!  The "reverse bayonets" that should be there, are they easy to break off or does it take some deliberate effort?

Shark,  sounds like its time to pick up a couple of generic sockets for now and that should fit under your lens.

[Shark49]

they actually fit perfectly.  I soldered two wires into each one.  The little metal ring goes in front and the spring and housing going in from the rear and its a two handed operation to get it to lock in.  Lost a spring down in the grille but ran out of light.  argh.

[Shark49]

Now I am trying to figure out how to finish connecting the wiring.  I got a "new" remanufactured Delco alternator and using the Walck wiring harness.  I bought a NOS voltage regulator but it sounds like I no longer need it?  It does have the original starter which I understand will eventually go out but I am basically just trying to get it put together to run now.

I found this wiring diagram and hoping its correct for my setup? I'll need to figure out how to mount the solenoid to the starter. Im not sure the wire from alternator to ammeter is correct.  Wouldn't it go to the solenoid + side or the battery+?

[Rus Curtis]

If you have the original starter, it did not use a solenoid.  One could be added.  Are you intending to use the ignition switch to start and eliminate the floor starter switch?

The diagram you posted suggests a single wire alternator.  Is that what you have?

Hopefully, someone that's done this can jump in and help. 

[Bruce_W]

  Grilles with the original “teeth” are pretty rare, Bubba has drilled or filed most of them out of there. Often the hole is opened up to near to or even greater than the size of the original lens retaining ring.
Soldered two wires? Where to? Only one is needed, and I think it used a bullet connector.
BW

[Shark49]

No teeth and I wired two wires per Walcks wire harness.  One for park lights and one for the blinkers.

[PercyUK]

 Hi, don't think of the ammeter as a switch. The battery does go to the solenoid but via and through the ammeter. It doesn't break the connection just reads the amps as they pass through. If you put a test meter on it you would get continuity. Unless someone can correct me if you removed it and tied all the wires together it would still work.

[Shark49]

My cj3A doesnt have the floor mounted starter.  It was probably removed by PO when new floor pan welded in.  Just keyed start so it needs the solenoid which I understand mounted on the starter on some jeeps.  Walcks wiring only goes that far so I can do that or extend wires to fender area.

[Rus Curtis]

I'll need to figure out how to mount the solenoid to the starter......My cj3A doesnt have the floor mounted starter......so it needs the solenoid which I understand mounted on the starter on some jeeps.

Im not sure the wire from alternator to ammeter is correct.  Wouldn't it go to the solenoid + side or the battery?

Lots to unpack.  Nice illustration BTW!!  Never seen that exploded view before.  Nice addition to your library!  While I'm at it, look very carefully at that bulb/socket/wire.  That appears to be illustrating original.  Just one wire, just one contact on the bottom of the bulb.  The lights come on at the first notch and go off at the second notch of the switch.  IF you are going to install a turn signal, all the parking/taillight wires have to go through that turn signal switch.   Walck's is like every other vendor supplying a wiring harness; giving you a solution but not necessarily what you want/need - not all variations can be fixed or addressed - so you have to make the alterations.

On my parking lights, I told the wiring vendor (Vintage Wiring) that I had non-standard parking lights that already had 2 wires and a two-filament bulb.  He used that to supply me with wires that would tie in. 

On yours, Walck's two-wire setup may create a problem if you try and connect both wires together and run it to a single filament bulb.  I suspect that, unless you change a few things, the turn signals won't be seen if you have the light switch pulled to the first notch.  There is a way to make it all work with only one wire (and one filament bulb) but you're going to have to deviate from the two-wire setup (or change the socket to a two-wire type and use a 2-filament bulb).

For the starter, there's a real good article on the CJ3B Page on swapping a modern starter on an F-head that already has a solenoid on it.  Finding one to match your ring gear is the trick.  There are L-head owners that can guide you better on matching if you want to drop in a modern starter.  Found this while searching alternator:

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/flywheels-comparsion-pics_topic31855.html
http://www.cj3apage.com/index/Tech_Tips/StartersAndRinggears.htm


I would caution against trying to mount a solenoid on your starter.  A solenoid can be mounted anywhere (usually on the fender or firewall for easy access) so don't force yourself into trying to get it mounted on the starter - especially if its "original" (6V?) which as you mentioned earlier will eventually wear out. 

For the ammeter, I would suggest googling this.  Some have swapped in a voltmeter but it seems most applications use an "idiot" light to signal a charging problem.  Ensure your search includes hooking up to an ammeter vs. the other options.

Since your jeep has some "salad" qualities about it, i.e. a mix of different jeeps vs. one model/one year, think about researching other models - specifically the CJ2A.  I regularly visit the 2A forum (because I have a Bantam trailer) and am amazed at the lively in-depth discussions they get into.  Restoration to moderate modifications all the way to extreme deviations.

I searched for alternator wiring and got way too many returns to list them all but here are a few:

This is an example of others head-scratching with a Walck's harness (I forgot I added a comment about a wiring diagram - SAVE THAT LINK as I think it is an excellent interactive version to help with options, wire color etc).
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/walcks-wiring-harness_topic50269_post511436.html?KW=alternator+wiring#511436

From this link:
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/electrical-wiring-and-harness_topic15283.html

I found this (this link BTW has the link to the interactive wiring harness that I've used before):
http://www.cj-2a.com/oldsite/elec/wiring/index.html

Scroll down to ALTERNATOR section. 

Caution on ammeter connection (ensuring insulation):
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/wiring-questions-walcks-harness-install_topic49304_post501074.html?KW=alternator+wiring#501074


Long read, but I hope this helps answer some questions.