'49 CJ3A "HONDO"

[Shark49]

Hey there.

Nate from Fort Mill, SC.  Just purchased a 1949 CJ3A and looking forward to getting it on the road.  The engine and tranny are very solid as is most of the body.  The floor boards were replaced at one time and while the welds are pretty good there's some issues I will need to attend to.  First thing is welding in the tool box.
So far I have done the following:
1.  Replaced plug wires and put on new distributor
2.  New gas tank hoses and straps
3.  Rebuilt the steering box and replaced a few parts and greased it all
4.  Repacked all bearings and replaced front right ones
5.  Redid the brakes and replaced master cylinder
6.  Replaced ignition switch
7.  Cleaned up carb
8.  Replaced clutch and u-joints

Next up in no particular order:
1.  Install new seats and cushions
2.  Replace entire wiring harness
3.  Replace taillights
4.  Cowl rubber
5.  new mirrors
6.  Dress up engine compartment with new air horn and filter, oil filter, etc.
7.  Purchased new HD Juan wheels and traxion tires.  Wheels are getting powder coated black
8.  Install the various handles, footman loops, bow storage etc.
9.  POR15 or rhino line the tub
10.  Paint the body

I plan on painting it either cadet gray or riviera gray (CJ3B colors).

Can't wait to start driving it this spring!!

[Rus Curtis]

Shark49,
Welcome!  Nice procurement!  How much do you know about its history?  When I see the straps across the w/s vent, the first thing I think of is M38.  Is that windshield a possible M38?

Good progress so far!  If I may, a suggestion on #3.  If you want your steering box to last, you'll need to use gear oil vs. grease.  Some swear by 140 but I pulled the trigger and went back (originally grease - with all worn parts) with 80W gear oil (GL-4 or less).  I did find some leaks but fixed those.  I did, however, use grease to stick the loose bearings in place until I got the Tube and Cam set in place.

[Shark49]

no history at all.  Guy I bought it from was clueless as am I this is my first willys.  Good info on the steering thanks!!

[Rus Curtis]

With that information, I strongly encourage adding a Service Manual to your library.  It has a lot of information in it.  Service, Repair, Wiring Diagrams, Exploded Views, etc.  Very much worth the price.

You will be able to not only read up on your "new" jeep but also look up different components and see how they go together, how to disassemble/re-assemble and specifics/limits on them as well.

Let the journey begin!

[Shark49]

Man this solex carb is just not doing well.  It won't run off choke.  I took it partially apart and cleaned out the float bowl and screen.  Had a lot of sludge in the bottom of it.  Put it back together and it starts quicker but the minute I reduce choke it starves and dies.  Plugs are not rich.  Tank is brand new with new gas.  New fuel pump filter and wiring.  I sprayed engine tuner-in-a-can all around the intake manifold and under the carb to see if there's a vac leak but no change in rpm so I am thinking carb is the issue.  I will try to reset the screws.  I imagine it may be somewhat clogged/gummed up and just needs to run through some good gas to clean it out too.

[PercyUK]

Hi matey, the Solex is pretty bomb proof although not to everyone's taste. I have one on mine. Barring any real issues such as being completely clogged it sounds like you need to adjust your idle jet. It's the only adjustable jet on the unit and is located on the carb facing towards the grill. If it's stalling when you put the choke in then I would suggest it's that. 
On the rear is an idle rev screw. Try winding that up, raising the revs, until you can put the choke in. If you can then turn the idle jet screw in or out until the revs are as fast as they will go and smooth.
At this point you can wind back the rear idle screw to the idle revs you require.
Hopefully this makes sense.

[Shark49]

Yes it does and thanks.  I tried googling solex carb adjustments but I kept getting VW threads or links to manuals to buy.  Waiting for my service manual to come in from KW as well.

-Nate

[Shark49]

That seemed to do the trick.  Runs way better now.  I bought a replacement carb from KW just in case.  On another note, when checking the oil, I noticed the oil filler tube is really loose.  It has a pretty good sized dent down at the bottom.  Is there any tricks to getting it to stay in place?  What is the consensus on attaching the tube from the air horn assembly to it?

[BillT]

The tube on mine was loose as well. I pulled it and cleaned it up and put a SMALL  dab of JB on it and reinstalled it. Does yours have the strap that secures the tube to the block? If not I would get one and install it.

The air tube you are referring to is in a negative pressure when the engine is running, in other words it's sucking air and whatever is in the air into the engine. It needs to be filtered.

[Shark49]

so got my new wheels and tires installed and started it up to warm it it for a ride and all of a sudden it died.  No spark to plugs.  Brand new coil, dist., wires, and plugs.  It turns over but no go.  No idea where to start. 

[PercyUK]

Hiya, it cranks but no spark, firstly check that you have power to the coil. Due to all the work you've done it could be a loose wire. Lack of  power to the coil is my best guess given what you describe.

[Shark49]

Percy I think that's exactly what it is. Took the ignition switch out and saw an empty connector at the positive side so must be a wire came off.   I really need to re-wire the whole rig but jut want to take it for a spin!
-Nate

[PercyUK]

We all know that feeling, forget the wiring and go for it

[Shark49]

Well unfortunately after a few hours of trying to figure out why it wouldn't run it came down to a bad electronic distributor.  I replaced the coil with a new one to be safe and even put a wire directly from the battery to it and still no spark at plugs and there is no way all four plugs are fouled.  At first I thought the distributor shaft broke off but after calling walcks they gave me specs on it and the slot at end is only 1/4" so that was a big relief!  So I sent it off to them for replacement.  Now just waiting on the mail etc.  Unfortunately its not something I can purchase locally.  argh guess no cars and coffee tomorrow.

I guess ill jump on the wiring now lol.

[Shark49]

I tore out all of the old wiring and trying to organize the new and in the directions is speaks of a terminal block in the engine compartment.  I have looked through a dozen photos of engine bays but none clearly show how it is supposed to look.  I was thinking about just buying a marine grade terminal from a marina because the one at KW looks like it could easily degrade. 

Can someone show me a photo of what they have?