speedo stuck when parked

[tow hook]

Agreed! Don't half way it!
Got my bushings from DeBella so that might be why. Agree about tight steer too. I bought one,  but with the box properly rebuilt,  don't need it.

 thanks

[Marla.the.V35]

when you say reamed... to fix the box or the shaft ?

When the sector shaft bushings go in, they'll compress slightly (and may even be made at a slightly smaller ID?). They need to be a perfect 0.875" after they're inserted (to accept the sector shaft, which I recall is about a 1/1000th smaller). Hence the hand reamer. This affords a tight fit, with a small enough space for oil to encompass the shaft. This is only if you're putting new bushings in. If there are old ones there, they *might* be ok? but that's not something I'll be able to answer.

When you're done rebuilding, use very viscous oil, not a grease. Metalshaper sells 1000W stuff at about $30 a quart (you'll use about a third of that). I bought some. Couldn't be happier with it.

[Bruce_W]

  Made in China shaft - - don’t tell me, let me guess - Omix-ADA? Kaiser-Willys?  Perhaps you would do well to read up on the Omix-ADA shafts that were BREAKING in use. Learn how to identify the bad shafts and avoid them. The problem has supposedly been corrected.
  After installation in the box, the bushings (should) need to be reamed to the correct inside diameter to match the shaft with the proper amount of clearance for lube. If yours is “tight” but you can push it in and out and turn it by hand, it’s probably alright. DON’T hone it with a brake cylinder hone. The hone will leave abrasive particles embedded in the bushings which will cause premature wear on the shaft and the bushings. All jeeps from 1941 to 1971 except M38, M38A1, and V-6 CJ5’s use the same shaft and bushings.
BW

[tow hook]

when you say reamed... to fix the box or the shaft ?

When the sector shaft bushings go in, they'll compress slightly (and may even be made at a slightly smaller ID?). They need to be a perfect 0.875" after they're inserted (to accept the sector shaft, which I recall is about a 1/1000th smaller). Hence the hand reamer. This affords a tight fit, with a small enough space for oil to encompass the shaft. This is only if you're putting new bushings in. If there are old ones there, they *might* be ok? but that's not something I'll be able to answer.

When you're done rebuilding, use very viscous oil, not a grease. Metalshaper sells 1000W stuff at about $30 a quart (you'll use about a third of that). I bought some. Couldn't be happier with it.

 thanks, i'm looking on e bay for a7/8" reamer any tips ? at grainger they are close to 200$

[tow hook]

  Made in China shaft - - don’t tell me, let me guess - Omix-ADA? Kaiser-Willys?  Perhaps you would do well to read up on the Omix-ADA shafts that were BREAKING in use. Learn how to identify the bad shafts and avoid them. The problem has supposedly been corrected.
  After installation in the box, the bushings (should) need to be reamed to the correct inside diameter to match the shaft with the proper amount of clearance for lube. If yours is “tight” but you can push it in and out and turn it by hand, it’s probably alright. DON’T hone it with a brake cylinder hone. The hone will leave abrasive particles embedded in the bushings which will cause premature wear on the shaft and the bushings. All jeeps from 1941 to 1971 except M38, M38A1, and V-6 CJ5’s use the same shaft and bushings.
BW

 um ya it's a kaiser willys  what is the difference between kaiser willys and walcks ? it's all made in china ? right...?  i'm guessing mid west willys would have a good used one ? either way i'll have a ream the new bushings.... any thoughts on the best place to get them? i though k/w was a good place..... maybe not ? 

 thanks for the early 5 tip. i just read the some 5's take a 15/16" shaft

[Marla.the.V35]

I can't find the listing now but I got mine on Amazon. And I believe the company that sold it was Sonoran Tool Supply or something. "7/8" Hand reamer spiral flute" you can save some cost with a High Speed Steel one, as opposed to carbide. You probably won't be doing this often enough to necessitate a the latter.
Get spiral flute because the straight ones end up hitching a little bit. I'm cooking burgers at this exact moment but I'll run inside and see if I can find more info for you in a little bit.
UPDATE: I picked up one very similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008SBPSWS/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_68CRVTW6JMZ37JX4ZWG3

Regarding the dangerous sector shafts...
Here's a link I got when I looked into building my box. It describes what to look for. 
https://cj3apage.com/Forum/index.php?topic=2116.msg17975#msg17975
and here's the full thread with way more goodies
https://cj3apage.com/Forum/index.php?topic=5152.msg39671#msg39671
and the recall pdf
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/uploads/2300/Steering_Sector_Shaft_Recall.pdf
(whew!)

The bad ones have a weld running along the edge of the shaft here instead of being cast/pressed (both?)

[tow hook]

wow, thanks sooo much. seems like the old sector shafts have been off the market for a well. me try any find a new/ good used one

[Marla.the.V35]

wow, thanks sooo much. seems like the old sector shafts have been off the market for a well. me try any find a new/ good used one

Yeah, seems like they "corrected the problem". However, it's important to be able to identify the bad parts as someone might part out a jeep they don't know much about. If one was put in by a previous owner, then bad shafts make their way back out on the market.

Always willing to help someone out when I can. Speaking of....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/291645257603?epid=15024469219&hash=item43e7697783:g:1RAAAOSwGI9btg6L
Just sayin' This is where I got mine, so I can attest to getting what was advertised.

I dont' see any NOS sector shaft's available anymore, unfortunately. Make sure you get the 7/8ths one tho. M-38's and M-38A1's are larger diameter (and I think the truck ones are also not interchangeable)

[tow hook]

wow, thanks sooo much. seems like the old sector shafts have been off the market for a well. me try any find a new/ good used one

Yeah, seems like they "corrected the problem". However, it's important to be able to identify the bad parts as someone might part out a jeep they don't know much about. If one was put in by a previous owner, then bad shafts make their way back out on the market.

Always willing to help someone out when I can. Speaking of....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/291645257603?epid=15024469219&hash=item43e7697783:g:1RAAAOSwGI9btg6L
Just sayin' This is where I got mine, so I can attest to getting what was advertised.

I dont' see any NOS sector shaft's available anymore, unfortunately. Make sure you get the 7/8ths one tho. M-38's and M-38A1's are larger diameter (and I think the truck ones are also not interchangeable)

 i got my shaft around a year or 2 ago. i did print the recall info when i take the box apart i will ck it over. thanks i didn't see any nos shafts avl either

[Bruce_W]

See the picture posted by JON above, with the circled area. If you find a weld bead around that center button or anywhere on that face, it is one of the “bad” shafts. All others, as in the one shown, are”supposed” to be ok. That just means that none have broken yet.
I believe that the originals were forged as one piece and machined, with the “buttons or teeth” being the only added parts.
BW

[tow hook]

See the picture posted by JON above, with the circled area. If you find a weld bead around that center button or anywhere on that face, it is one of the “bad” shafts. All others, as in the one shown, are”supposed” to be ok. That just means that none have broken yet.
I believe that the originals were forged as one piece and machined, with the “buttons or teeth” being the only added parts.
BW

 thanks for the info. i read my copy of a orginal service manual. in section O :" steering " it didn't talk about the steering box bushings, or a reamer ... when did the reamer come in to play to make the .001 tolerance?  it just said if bushings are bad, replace them.....

[Bruce_W]

  “Back in the day”, as you younkers are fond of saying, reaming of new bushings was the way it was done. A shaft would almost never fit and run in an un-reamed new bushing. Bushings were made and supplied undersized so that they could be reamed for perfect fit and perfect clearance. I have seen some lately that seem to fit without reaming, but it worries me. What if the shaft is actually only contacting the bushings on some high spots? Soon the clearance will be excessive and you can’t make it smaller. I like to know that the bushings are in there perfectly straight, perfectly aligned, and perfectly sized. But if they seem to fit without reaming, what are you going to do? 
BW

[tow hook]

  “Back in the day”, as you younkers are fond of saying, reaming of new bushings was the way it was done. A shaft would almost never fit and run in an un-reamed new bushing. Bushings were made and supplied undersized so that they could be reamed for perfect fit and perfect clearance. I have seen some lately that seem to fit without reaming, but it worries me. What if the shaft is actually only contacting the bushings on some high spots? Soon the clearance will be excessive and you can’t make it smaller. I like to know that the bushings are in there perfectly straight, perfectly aligned, and perfectly sized. But if they seem to fit without reaming, what are you going to do? 
BW

thx, normally the service manual covers all of that.

[tow hook]

I pulled the box apart today , both bushings are under sized .99 vs the originals that 1.0” The inner bushing slides rite  through,  I got them at k.w. On Monday I will call them, an see what happens. Omix Ada makes them as well , found a nos on eBay . Add uses the Same part number as the crown bushing, is it really nos then ?

[tow hook]

after 2 sets of bushings from k.w. i got one good rear bushing. i just purchased a inner bushing n.o.s.  from quarter ton military guy to finish the job. a 4 hour job will take 2 weeks