It doesn’t look like it’s too much trouble to replace the gas pump, so I’ll try doing that myself. Beats taking it to the garage if it’s a simple job. Ive never done it before.
I dread dropping the oil pan, but I’ll do that as well. I’ve never done that before either. What makes it worse is that I’m operating on a dirt floor.
I’ll get as much gas out of the oil as possible, replace filter and oil, and try cranking again.
I’ll be back in a couple of weeks with an update.
MANY THANKS!
The pump should be easy: 2 bolts and a gasket. Whoever supplies the pump, check to ensure it has modern rubber that is compatible with Ethenol. Original rubber can either already be brittle or could deteriorate faster with modern fuels. No idea if you have vacuum wipers but if that's not a desire, there's no need to add additional complications. You may be able to get yours rebuilt with a better diaphragm and possibly cheaper, but I'd check with Scoutpilot for advise.
I'm not sure there's an advantage to dropping the pan unless you want to inspect the float (the round oil pickup that pulls oil up to the pump) and see if it's clogged or if there's clumps at the bottom of the pan that needs cleaning out. But having an undesired gas mix running through your oil has cleaned your engine. But, if done, you'll need to ensure the pan flange is flat around the holes so that it won't cut into the gasket when re-attaching. See here (I did this to my oil pan):
https://cj3b.info/Engine/Rebuild7.htmlOn your dirt floor, suggest a tarp (may be easier to slide around on) or just some scrap cardboard (also helps with sliding around). Both keep you cleaner. There was a thread over on the 2A forum where specific products are available that really are slippery and aid sliding around under a vehicle. Nothing wrong with going low-tech.
I'd also suggest using cheap oil until you get this sorted out. Once you can successfully run the engine without spewing fluids or mixing those fluids, and this oil has a chance to "rinse" the gas residual out of the passages, then you can do a good oil change with some ZDDP (additive or high content).
To Steve's point, I would initially assume that either oil or gas would float on the top of water/antifreeze and "should" be visible through the radiator neck - as droplets. Also, if antifreeze were getting into the oil passages, there should be droplets on the dipstick or when pouring the oil out. I've not seen everything and have been proven wrong many times. But sometimes a jar full of liquid is helpful to identify what's in it - even crud floating around in the liquid.
I see above you've already ordered the oil lines for the canister. I ran into a problem when a trusted vendor sent the wrong length hose. I asked why there was a difference and the answer was, "Most owners remove a stock fitting on the bottom of the canister so the extra length on the hose is designed to attach directly to the canister." I had to shop around and ordered from a military vendor.
Read about that here:
https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/cj3b_bulletin_board/viewtopic.php?p=44894#p44894
