Can't get it to run at much of anything but idle

[Goggleeye]

Just a little background information, I'm hardly a mechanic, and I don't have anybody close to help.  I have the tools and basic knowledge, but that's about it. 

Got my dad's 53 out of the barn, as it had sat for about the last 12-14 years.  So far, we have got it running, but not well.

I replaced the fuel tank with a plastic one (the old one was rusted horribly), made sure the engine was loose, put in fresh fuel, cleaned the points, and she fired up right away.  Purred like a kitten, just like I remembered.  Drove her around the farm (About 1 mile) and ran great.  On the second trip, she died/sputtered.  Would run at an idle, but not with any throttle.  Like it was running lean/out of fuel, but I'm not sure. 

I replaced the fuel filter, then I rebuild the solex carb, put in new plugs (the old ones looked great). Still the same problem.  Fuel is getting to the carb - I disconnected the fuel line at the carb and it pulses with every turn of the engine, so I assume the fuel pump is not the issue, but I just don't know what is.  Can a fuel pump work fine at idle but not under a load?

Some other info that might help:  It starts and idles fine, and the throttle is responsive at first.  Then after a few revs, it begins to hesitate and then wont rev up at all, but rather almost dies, but usually doesn't, but still doesn't recover to the point it will rev normally again.  Have to turn it off, let it sit and try again.

I'm lost at this point.  Any suggestions?

[aboyandhisdog]

After sitting for 13 years, I would think there is gum in the fuel lines, pump, carb.  You might try a serious fuel line/carb cleaner or maybe even rebuild or replace the pump.  I would think you could blow out the lines okay, but I'm guessing the pump parts are dried out. 

As for the Solex, one of the nice things about the Solex is that you can remove and blow out about every jet that makes the carb run in about 5-10 minutes.  There are maybe 7 brass hex fittings on the outside of the carb.  They all unscrew (14mm, 12mm, and 8mm.) and the jet or seat comes right out.  Blow them out and replace.  There is a very small "float chamber" which I would think carb cleaner could address.  The nice thing also about the Solex is very little gas stays with the carb when it isn't running, so you're likely to have less gum in the carb.

[Goggleeye]

Thanks for the advice.� Took the fuel pump off and blew out the lines, and disassembled the fuel pump.� Had 1/4" + of rust sediment on the top half, and the piece of rubber on the intake side was hard, cracked, and misshaped.� Any suggestions on rebuilding or buying new?� I've read something also about the solex carb needing less fuel pressure?� Are there any modifications I ought to make at this point?
Thanks,
Mark
Here is the pump that is on there now. https://walcks4wd.com/fuel-pump-no-bowl-l-f-head.html
and here is one at o'reilley's, will it work?
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/precision-fuel-pumps-4492/fuel---emissions-16775/fuel-pumps-tanks-16472/fuel-pump-strainer-16843/fuel-pump-12322/83db8e3f0135/precision-fuel-pump/m22022/5694322/1953/jeep/willys?q=fuel+pump&pos=1

[specialty]

if the pump you took off did not have the spacer behind it, I think it is a 3/8 spacer but not sure, you will be getting to much fuel pressure even for the Carter WO stock carburetor. Many of these new aftermarket fuel pumps eliminate the space and deliver less fuel pressure without the spacer. They sell for about $35. Have you blown out the carburetor yet?

[1955CJ-5]

Does it have a makers name on it?

I'd sure call Walck's and ask if they have a rebuild kit.

[specialty]

Ask him if he has the rebuild kit for the stock pump. I know they make them. Also if you did not have the spacer between the block and the pump you might get one of those also. I think a stock pump will do about 6 PSI without the spacer and if I recall it should be 3 or 4 PSI.

[Goggleeye]

if the pump you took off did not have the spacer behind it, I think it is a 3/8 spacer but not sure, you will be getting to much fuel pressure even for the Carter WO stock carburetor. Many of these new aftermarket fuel pumps eliminate the space and deliver less fuel pressure without the spacer. They sell for about $35. Have you blown out the carburetor yet?

There was no spacer, just a gasket.  Is it a fuel pump that sells for $35?  From everything I've found, the glass bowl style pump is the cheapest and sells for about 60 at Walck's. As for the carb, I completely cleaned and rebuilt it yesterday.

[specialty]

Fuel pumps on Ebay sell for about $35 to $40, Mine has been on my Jeep for 3 years now and no spacer. 
https://www.ebay.com/p/Jeep-Willys-MB-GPW-Cj2a-Cj3a-Fuel-Pump-Glass-Bowl-Style/901443415?iid=271943618561&chn=ps

[Goggleeye]

Awesome, thank you! Do you have a solex carb? Just wondering about the fuel pressure issue?

[specialty]

I would contact the seller. He is a good guy and see what he recemends with this pump. My pump did not require one. I thought at first it was bad because it gets very little fuel in the bowl. I contacted the seller and he said that was normal and it works fine.

[aboyandhisdog]

Goog,  I have that pump with a Solex and no pressure regulator.  I think the whole "press reg needed thing" is way overblown for the L134.  These pumps deliver 2-4 lbs which is fine with the Solex.  Now if you had a pump that delivered say, 10-15, that would be an issue.  This pump works GREAT with my Solex.

[athawk11]

Sometimes you will get similar symptoms when the coil is failing or the condenser is shot. 

[specialty]

I have been there with the coil myself. Drove me nuts. Just last weekend went for a short ride and the Jeep has been runnung great and it started to miss. The more I drove the worse it got until it would not even idle. managed to make it to my daughters only a few miles away. Checked all I could field testing, reset points,  and found nothing. Got my truck and trailer and brought it home. Pulled the cap off and checked the advance and pulled the points. Seemed the points were only firing on a small part on the side of them. Looked like the arm was sorta bent to the side. Replaced them and it ran fine again. So i ordered the Hot Spark electronic ignition, Starts better and it idles flawlessly now. Can't say I notice any difference in power but it seems to just run smoother. Cost was about $64 for the module.  No more points, condenser or checking timing.

[Goggleeye]

Thanks for all the advice.  Got my new fuel pump today, can't wait to install and see what happens.  Also ordered new points and condenser.  I was really toying with the idea of the electronic ignition.  And too, I was wondering about the coil, but the fact that it would still restart after short rest made me think that that wouldn't be enough time for the coil to cool down and that the coil wasn't the issue.  I'll get the new parts in and report back.

[Goggleeye]

No cigar.  New fuel pump, condenser, cap, and rotor, adjusted the points, same problem.  Starts great, purrs smooth.  Backed it out of the garage, took off down the road, got 100 yards and it wants to cut out with anything more than an idle.  If it does die, it starts right back up.  However, it seems to spit/miss after I ran it, but it didn't miss at all when I first started it after doing the work.  Could this be a coil issue?  Or perhaps a stuck valve?