Transfer case oil Seal Replacement

[jluyk53]

Okay guys, I need your expertise. I'm working on replacing the oil seal on the transfer case. I have removed the drive shaft, parking brake drum, and am now somewhat confused. I removed the 4 bolts that hold the parking brake backing plate but there is a round "do-dad" holding it in place. I can wiggle/rotate the backing plate but it won't come off.

The "do-dad" in question is circled in red. What is it and how do I remove it?

[1955CJ-5]

I think what you are looking at is just the lip of the rear transfer case cap.

Is the emergency brake linkage holding the plate in place?

Or it may just be hardened grease and gunk that is keeping the backing plate from sliding off...

Clean the edges real good between the "do-dad" and the brake backing plate and the plate ought to slip off...

I may be wrong but I think you can replace the seal without taking the brake plate off....

[Ryan_M]

That "do-dad" is indeed the part of the TC. Leave it alone.

You can definitely replace the seal with the backing plate in place. Do yourself a huge favor and buy an $11 seal puller if you don't already own one. Even if you never use it again it'll be worth it for this job.

I've already done a substantial amount of banging my head against the wall here from which you can now benefit:

http://www.cj3apage.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1377222584/8

[jluyk53]

Hey guys,

Thanks for the responses. I have a seal puller but want to make sure I'm pulling on the right thing. In the picture below, is the seal the ring I have the yellow line on?

[athawk11]

You should be able to pull the backing plate right off, but you would need to disconnect the cable.� Although, I doubt that's what's holding you back.�

In your second photo, Yes...that is the seal.� Don't dig too deep with your puller.� There is a ridge that is part of the TC� that the seal sits against.� If you get the puller behind that seal, you will never get the seal out.

Also, the seal is a good idea, but with that much oil build up, you want to make sure the seal surface on the companion flange is smooth as a babies butt.� If ridged or pitted, you should install a Speedy Sleeve.

And, use some Permatex 2 on the output shaft splines.�

All above should help keep the oil loss down to a minimum...and make the park brake work better.

Tim

[jluyk53]

All,

Thanks for the continued assistance.

Now that I have reduced the old seal to shrapnel, what is the best way to remove the outermost ring of the old seal, since that's about all that's left of it? The seal puller can't get much of a grip on the old seal remnants.

[jluyk53]

got it.

[macrisel]

You should be able to pull the backing plate right off, but you would need to disconnect the cable.� Although, I doubt that's what's holding you back.�

In your second photo, Yes...that is the seal.� Don't dig too deep with your puller.� There is a ridge that is part of the TC� that the seal sits against.� If you get the puller behind that seal, you will never get the seal out.

Also, the seal is a good idea, but with that much oil build up, you want to make sure the seal surface on the companion flange is smooth as a babies butt.  If ridged or pitted, you should install a Speedy Sleeve.
And, use some Permatex 2 on the output shaft splines.�

All above should help keep the oil loss down to a minimum...and make the park brake work better.

Tim

Without a doubt, make sure you follow Tim's advice and take a good luck at the yoke that fits into that seal.  If you just replace the seal and the yoke is not perfectly smooth, you wasted your time and money.  A Speedy Sleeve is a snap to install (maybe 15 minutes) and gives you a smooth surface to seal against.  The Speedy Sleeve should cost $20-30 per yoke and the part number is #99156.  You should be able to pick it up at your local NAPA.

Good luck!