Correct steering box?

[52withaGPW]

I've often wondered if the steering box in my 3A was the right one. Outside of knowing how to adjust the slack out of it, I really don't know much about it.

Is it supposed to have a grease zerk in the top of the case, or was that a mod someone did years ago? Just doesn't seem right to pump it full of grease.

[athawk11]

That zerc was originally a plug. �Alot of them, (including mine) had a zerc installed. �The steering box is suppose to have a heavy oil in it, not grease. �Grease will not lubricate the sector shaft bushings. �But if you go straight oil, you will possibly have a leaking steering box. �Much like a steering knuckle pudding, I mixed some black grease with some 90w oil. �It's kind of a heavy runny oil. �Seems to work.

 Tim

Edit: �Sorry, I didn't answer you first question. �The original steering boxes were by 'Ross'. �Here are a couple photo I snapped while doing my rebuild. �Notice the evil grease.

[52withaGPW]

Thanks for the input and pics, Tim. I honestly don't know the exact model of steering box I have in my 3A, but it looks a lot like yours. It's most likely a Ross. All I know is, mine is about 3 turns away from being completely useless. I haven't been taking out of city limits for months now. Half a turn of play in the steering wheel, easily, and all the adjustment is taken up.


How hard are the boxes to remove? I need to rebuild mine, badly.


Kit.

[calvinhunt]

�The steering box is suppose to have a heavy oil in it, not grease. �Grease will not lubricate the sector shaft bushings. �But if you go straight oil, you will possibly have a leaking steering box. �Much like a steering knuckle pudding, I mixed some black grease with some 90w oil. �It's kind of a heavy runny oil. �Seems to work.

�After I completed the overhaul of my steering gear box with all new parts, including the bushings that needed to be reamed, refacing the gear box and cover, with new seals and gaskets, I installed it and filled with 140 gear oil. �It didn't take long for the gear oil to start working its way out of the seal on the sector shaft. �I read the posts about the options of knuckle pudding and decided to try mixing Lucas Oil Stabilizer with my gear oil 50/50. �I also removed the steering arm from the sector shaft and installed another oil seal right on top of the first one. �There was room. �Now I have two-deep oil seals on my sector shaft. �The gear box has stayed full ever since. �
 ï¿½Recently I have helped a friend with his Jeep steering box. �At my NAPA store I found Lucas Hub Oil. �I asked about it. �Was told that it is like a mixture of gear oil and Lucas Oil Stabilizer. �I tried it. �I like that it doesn't leak and I do believe it offers a great level of lubrication. �Costs $9.95 at my NAPA store. �Convenient. �

[rocketeer]

I used 140 gear oil in mine and no leaks.

Larry

[calvinhunt]

I used 140 gear oil in mine and no leaks.

Larry

And after the attention to detail I took in overhauling my gear box, only to have it leak, was very discouraging. �Again, after seeing all the posts about "knuckle pudding" I thought that must be the resolution. �I didn't see at the time that anyone was having success with just straight gear oil.  I probably just had a bad seal. �Should have just changed the seal and it would have worked the way it was designed to work. �But, since it is working perfectly now, I don't plan on changing it back. �I'm just pleased to find a workable knuckle pudding so available without the messy mixing.

[macrisel]

So would this Lucas product take the place of knuckle pudding in the steering knuckle also?

[calvinhunt]

After my overhaul the first dreaded oil drips came from one of my steering knuckles. �Again, after the attention to detail I had taken, and seeing all the posts on knuckle pudding, that's when I decided to try the 50/50 gear oil and Lucas Oil Stabilizer. �I first put it in the steering knuckles. �There has been no leak since. �I will always use the Lucas Hub Oil (instead of mixing my own) in both applications in all the old Willys Jeeps that I'm involved with because it is serving me so well. �

[athawk11]

Calvin,
That Lucas Hub Oil sounds great.  I'll try it on the next change.  

Back to the steering box...I too installed two seals on the sector shafts.  Great minds...

With the space they give you, it almost screams "USE TWO SEALS!"  So Far, No leaks.

Tim

[calvinhunt]

Back to the steering box...I too installed two seals on the sector shafts. �Great minds...
With the space they give you, it almost screams "USE TWO SEALS!" �So Far, No leaks.
Tim

And we're probably not the only ones to have used two seals. �It turns out that that is the most likely place for a leak anyway, so why not?

[Uncle_Vin]

I'm afraid to start yet another steering box / knuckle pudding argument, but have you guys considered John Deere Corn Head Grease (http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=corn%20head%20grease&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&sqi=2&ved=0CCYQtwIwAQ&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DUEwk_sYP6A8&ei=B1k1UM2CCaXc0QGC5IDABQ&usg=AFQjCNFT7C3dE4tuxRM1HcsyZEBnCUZHTw)?

[calvinhunt]

Uncle_Vin,
  It looks to me like that would be a great option for both the steering knuckles and the steering gear box.  At about $4 a tube the price is comparable, too.  It would also eliminate the need for mixing knuckle pudding. Thanks.

[Uncle_Vin]

Anytime Calvin.

[Gunslinger]

I thought I'd answer the question about how difficult it is to remve the box.  Plan your self some time is all I have to say.  The most difficul part is the sterring wheel, there is a post here about reuilding the box in place but I found it a lot easier to remove it completely.  You will need  steering wheel puller, so invest some time in that.  Once the wheel is off it gets pretty easy, remove the drag link from the pitman arm, remove the collar on the column at the dash, then remove the three large bolts that hold the box to the frame, by lifting, and rotating the assembly you can pull it right out from the front, I would reccomen taking the front fender off before you do this, makes it a lot easier.

Now for the fun part, there are kits you can buy to rebuild the entier box, but as long as you are at it, I would buy the parts to rebuild your drag link, bell crank and tie rod ends, and I would also include a "Tight Steer" as well.  You will be much happier if you do all of this than if you just pick at it.  Spoken from experience.  

The "Jeep Universal" manual does a good job of walking you through all of this, so good luck.