Engine oil pan and timing cover gasket replacement

[bayo500]

Hi, any traps I should know about when replacing the engine pan gasket,plus the timing seal and gasket.

Would you fit the pan first or the timing cover?

Any sealant needed on the crank when I fit the pulley?

Thanks Steve in Queensland


Oh..and happy new year

[athawk11]

Hi Steve,
I fit the timing cover first, as the lower portion of the cover works as the front flange for the oil pan cover. I used a very small amount of Permatex #2 sealant on both sides of the standard gaskets. �I also added a dab of silicone sealant at the joint where the two pans meet. �Check to make sure the seal in the timing cover is in good condition. �When you put the pulley back on, lubricate the pulley flange that makes contact with the timing cover seal. �

I have not run the Jeep much since it's been put back together, but so far, no leaks in this area.

Oh yeah, don't put more than about 15 lbs of torque on the oil pan bolts. �(I've made the mistake of tightening these bolts too much.) �

By the way, �nice looking ride! I did my CJ3A with a military feel also.

Tim

[aboyandhisdog]

I might jump in with an additional question re: bolting the pan back up if you don't mind...Is there a particular tightening sequence for the pan bolts such as you find with the head bolts?  Or, do you just start anywhere and keep going around in a circle until they are all to spec?

[bayo500]

Timing cover first, yes makes sense, as for sequence one gently in each corner to hold it up then around lightly till i get to around that 15 lb by hand, no air tools, hey anyone know why the oil pick up is on a hinge set-up?

[athawk11]

I believe I read it here....or some Jeep site.  The sequence of actually tightening the bolts is to start in the middle of the long side of the pan.  Tighten lightly, then jump to the bolt just opposite and on the other side. Continue working from one side to the other from the middle out to the ends.  The first tightening is soft.  Two or three lbs.  I usually just use the 1/2" socket on an extension and use wrist power only.  Continue in the same sequence and tighten a few lbs a little at a time.  If no torque rench, 15lbs is not very tight. Keep an eye on the gasket.  If it starts to pucker out the edge, you tightened too much.  Loose is better than tight.  You can go back and tighten it another 1/4 or 1/2 turn, but if you go too tight, you may distort the pan flange and maybe have a leak.

I believe the pickup is hinged so it will be able to reach the oil if the level is down.  It is designed to pick up from the top of the oil level.  If you ever took a pan off of a poorly kept 60 year old Willys, You would see what I saw.  Thick, black tar at the bottom of the pan.  You definately don't want that crud cycling through you engine.

Tim

[Bob W]

...hey anyone know why the oil pick up is on a hinge set-up?

It's designed to float on the top, where the oil is clean. Dirt, crud and water settle to the bottom.

[bayo500]

Floats on top, thats interesting, your right there was a lovely molassis 1/4 " thick.