I would clean it really well and either solder it �or rebraze. Any epoxy or glue type of fix eventually will get eaten up by the hot oil.. altho some say JB weld products will work in this application. I would be worried about an occasional bump on the pan causing the epoxy to crack. �Solder if properly applied will flex with minor bumps. � Whatever you use be sure to test it for leaks with some �kerosene or other thin solvent in the pan ..If you aren't confident in your ability to repair it , try a radiator shop to solder it up.
On your other post , I would install the timing cover and pulley to make certain it is centered , then tighten it down, then install the pan. A smear of RTV on the inside of the front pulley will help seal it, I dunno if installing it dry will result in a leak or not. � Also on each junction of the timing cover to the block use �a dab of RTV to seal the connection..No more than a pencil eraser sized dab. I like to use spray gasket cement on the pan and bottom of the oil pan gasket, to glue it to the pan...(3M weatherstrip cement will work here too) and I use a tiny amount of RTV hi temp silicone on the top of the gasket immediately before assembly. All you want is enough to make a visible coating on the gasket, any more can plug things up in bad places.You do not want so much that it oozes out upon assembly. Novice engine rebuilders sometimes �like to use a big bead of the stuff and when it oozes out inside the oil pan the next place you find it is in passages blocking lubrication and ruining engines...
When you are cleaning the block where the pan sits take notice of your assembly date if there is one stamped in the pan rail... it is the only time you will be able to see it..
