Unfreezing an Engine

[Comanche_County]

Topic is unfreezing a stuck "Go-Devil" L head 134 engine from a 1951 CJ3A.

I've got the head off, engine out, strangely I don't have a 1" 3/8" socket to try and turn the front pulley bolt so maybe with the proper leverage it will turn but that's out for now. From the bottom end (with the oil pan off) the engine looks pristine, except for the fact that some previous mechanic swapped around the rod caps, there's an odd ridged cap and the remaining 1,3,4 caps have smooth tops but are not on the 1,3,4 pistons. But never mind all that.

I can't get any of the caps off - I'm pulling with vice grips on the sides careful not to scratch them.  I've banged them with a plastic mallet. No joy, none of the caps are coming off.

I'd like to disconnect the rods before the mains but its just not working.

I've soaked the engine completely full with used motor oil for 4 days, I've soaked the cylinders with gas for a day, I've blown a whole can of PB blaster on everything that turns. Nothing budges yet.

The engine sat with its plugs out for many years, who know how many. But luckily, only Cyl #4 looked rusted on the walls and I think that's the culprit. When I soaked it with oil, the other three cylinders allowed the oil I poured in the cylinders to leak through the rings, not cylinder 4, it held everything poured in it.

All the rod caps look good, they should come off, unless there's a rust weld I can't see inside the journals. I know I could pop it off if I disconnected the mains, then applied liberal amounts of cheater bar leverage, but I'm trying to avoid that!

Any of you old timers know any tricks?

Thanks,
Jay

[p3ferris]

Wood.  Use a piece of wood placed on the "cap" and hit it with a hammer.  You will not damage them with the wood.  Same thing with the piston after soaking it.
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/the-easiest-way-to-unstick-an-engine_topic20834.html
 The piece of wood for the piston should be almost the size of piston if you are pushing it down.  Other wise use a 2x2 on the rod if driving it up.  Spray a lube from the bottom to the sides of the piston to prevent any scoreing from the rust when removing pistons.

[Gunslinger]

When we rebuilt old tractors we used a 50/50 mix of Turpentine and Linseed oil to unstick them.  It seems to work better than the commercial stuff like PB and its lighter than used oil.  Put that on number 4 for a day or so and see what happens.  I think patience here will serve you well.

[macrisel]

Another good trick is acetone and transmission fluid mixed 50/50.  Keep it in a sealed container to keep the acetone from evaporating.  Oh, and don't use it in an enclosed area  

Good luck on unsticking the engine!  If the engine sat around with no plugs, that number 4 cylinder may be welded shut.  At a guess, water could have dripped off the back of the hood down into the cylinder and sat there.  The other cylinders were probably a little more protected.

On a positive note, it looks like the jeep was mostly complete when you found it!

[Comanche_County]

Thanks for the replies fellas.

I've heard that phosphoric acid was ok to use and essentially does the same as vinegar?

I'll keep at it and post the results.

[Uncle_Vin]

Try Evaporust (www.evaporust.com).  That might work.  You should be able to get it locally.

[Carls_jeep]

White vinegar seems to work well. At least that's what I have heard.

[Matto]

While looking at the stuck piston you should also check the valves. The stems can rust into the block from moisture in the clylnder head. Use a brake adjuster or large flat screwdiver to pry gently between the tappet and valve to make sure each valve operates freely.

[Comanche_County]

I've got it soaking in vinegar now...if that doesn't work, I'm contemplating this:  http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp

I'll try a 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone next, then a little bit of BHF, then the ATF/Acetone...

I refuse to be beaten by this engine!

[p3ferris]

While looking at the stuck piston you should also check the valves. The stems can rust into the block from moisture in the clylnder head. Use a brake adjuster or large flat screwdiver to pry gently between the tappet and valve to make sure each valve operates freely.

pay attention to this too.  A stuck valve will ruin the cam and not let you move the  crank unless it happens to break

[Comanche_County]

While looking at the stuck piston you should also check the valves. The stems can rust into the block from moisture in the clylnder head. Use a brake adjuster or large flat screwdiver to pry gently between the tappet and valve to make sure each valve operates freely.

pay attention to this too. �A stuck valve will ruin the cam and not let you move the �crank unless it happens to break

Roger that, the vinegar is still working, well at least its doing something.  There's a slow but constant flow of bubbles coming up the cylinder walls and its creating a layer of foamy residue on the surface of the vinegar.  I'll give it some more time and see if it moves.

[Comanche_County]

The vinegar did it. �I was amazed. �I started to take the flywheel off and while removing it, she turned! �I cranked it a little to loosen the caps slightly. �Pulled those off easily, three pistons came out easy, and I just tapped the stuck piston from the inside with a piece of wood and it pushed right out. �The vinegar trick was pure magic. �
I think the engine looks pretty darn good. �My micrometer measured between 3.14"-3.16 in all the bores and there's no noticeable ridge at all.

Now I just have to get the darn lower pulley off!

[macrisel]

Nice!  Let the rebuild begin!!!

[Comanche_County]

Yup, got the pulley off, crank and valves are out, just need to get the cam gear off so I can pull the cam.  Does anyone know where I can download the Willys Mechanics Manual?  The disassembling the engine is the easy part, I want to make sure its right when I put it back together.  I don't mind paying for a hard copy if I have to.

[Carls_jeep]

Using calipers to measure the bore is not a good way. you need to use a bore mic or telescopic gauge to find out what the bore really is. A .020" difference in the bores is not acceptable. If the bore is .010" oversize it needs to be bored out and use larger pistons.

You will be better off to buy a hard copy of the manual. It's easier to use in the shop than trying to use a computer while working on the engine. Please wipe your hands off before flipping pages in the manual. Don't get the manual greasy.