R&R engine for the first time...

[aboyandhisdog]

Man, this information is great, thanks a lot!  I will have more questions as the time nears, but it may be a while before I have the swap engine.  I sure appreciate your help!

[RICKG]

Tom, after our phone visit I went out to she shop and yes the brake pedal has to come out to remove the larger forward floor plate. See ya in a couple weeks @ BHR.

[athawk11]

I used a dab of RTV on the bell housing edge to keep it clean inside the housing.   No other reason to do this.  It's not a standard procedure.  That said, it's was pretty clean in there after a number of years.

[aboyandhisdog]

Well, today is the day.  I dove in with reckless abandon to my engine swap.  At this point I have everything on the old engine disconnected and am ready to pull it out.

A question:  what is the heavy cable that runs from the trans cross member to the lower bell housing bolt hole on the driver side?  I can't find it in the parts diagram.  Looks like a ground strap of some sort, but I am doubting that theory. 

When I began restoring my 3A 10 years ago, I must have been up and down from the garage floor 50 times a day.  I liked it!  But now, I am finding it takes longer to get up.  Is gravity getting stronger?

Another question:  I have a lot of corrosion on the temp sensor adapter that threads into the side of the head.  Also some corrosion on the threads in the head where it goes in.  Is there any product I can put on the threads that will help to minimize the corrosion in this area?  I plan to get a new adapter tomorrow, but this corrosion concerns me.

Thanks a lot!

[1955CJ-5]

Gravity is getting stronger..I find that remaining stationary minimizes its effects!

That is an engine stay cable..

http://www.cj3a.info/tech/stay.html


About the corrosion...I get it too...I just use a brass bristle brush to clean it and a little WD-40 to help prevent it......

Randy

[64CJ5]

Tom, Pulling the grill and finders will open up the work area. You will not be bending over the fenders to get to bolts and fittings.  Good luck and keep us posted.
Hope to see you later this month.
Tom

[Rus Curtis]

Also

There is a bolt on marker (Harry Sheets "may" have one):
https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/cj3b_bulletin_board/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2112&p=19419&hilit=timing+marker#p19419

One that is available through military vendors that may work:
https://store.midwestmilitary.com/product-p/8720745.htm


There is also a great static timing technique that goes through step by step.

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/l134-ignition-timing_topic13819.html?KW=Timing

Save the .pdf found in the first post.

[RICKG]

Does this mean you got the Allied raffle engine Tom? Muley..

[aboyandhisdog]

Hi Muley,  yes I did about 3 weeks ago.  It is a beautiful thing! 

Thanks, Randy, Rus, and Tom for your input.  More questions, which should remove any doubt about my ignorance...I've been studying the Universal manual trans. diagrams and I see that it just stops at the front cap and doesn't show the release bearing or carrier.  When I separated the engine from the bell housing I thought I'd be looking at the front cap...imagine my surprise to see this "bearing thing" hanging there! 

Anyway, Is there supposed to be a lot of play in the bearing as it sits on the carrier?  It is pressed on snug but there is a bit of play in the bearing case.  It appears to be a sealed bearing, but I have doubts that it still is sealed.  Just seems loose.

Also, I can't get the front cap off.  Removed the three hex screws, but the cap won't budge.  Tried a hammer and prybar but hard to get at it.  Is there a puller that I should have?  Any thoughts on how to get the cap off??

Any input is much appreciated!

Tom, that is a private event now so I won't be seeing you, but I hope to see you in Sept.  I hope you have a great time and that the weather is a little dryer this time around!  Man, last year was soggy.

[Tumbleweed]

Watching your progress from Texas! You have some good guys in your area if you need help. Of course there may be beer involved!

[aboyandhisdog]

Beer is involved - maybe essential!  Okay so I got the old cap off with the leaking felt seal.  Hitting it back and forth with a small hammer finally loosened it up.  I replaced it with the new cap with the rubber seal.  Hoping this will keep all of my trans. fluid from coating my bell housing. 

Tomorrow is the day I will put the new engine in the jeep.  FYI, I left the fenders and the grill on the jeep and it came out with only minor scuffing.  But that was on me as I hadn't removed the Donaldson filter and that was the source of the tight quarters.  It is out now so I am in hopes that the motor will drop right in.  I also added some links to the hoist leveler which should allow the engine to swivel much better.  I have to run the hoist from the side (removed both tires) as it doesn't have the needed reach if I attack from the front.   

Thanks for the help and suggestions!

[RICKG]

Update??

[aboyandhisdog]

Well, since you asked... let's see...Got everything in and back together last night.  She started right up.  Ran uneven at idle at first but after I messed with the timing and carb a bit, it evened right out and purrs like a kitten.  Joe seems to have done a stellar job with the engine but I haven't really driven it yet.  Why, you ask?  Well, the clutch is a little "grabby" and I wasn't sure I should drive it without learning more.

So here's the deal:  When I transferred over the flywheel and clutch I put them in the new engine exactly as they were in the old engine.  The clutch had worked well before so I wasn't going to mess with anything.  The flywheel looked good, pressure plate good, friction plate good, and the throw out bearing and spring and carrier all good.  Put her back together with the friction plate facing the right way, the alignment tool in place, and tightened down the 6 pressure plate bolts evenly so that I didn't get any binding at all and so that the tool slid out nicely.  The ONLY thing I did was wipe off the flywheel with some carb cleaner to make sure there was no oil on it. 

I adjusted the clutch freeplay and pulled out into the driveway.  The clutch just didn't feel right.  It seemed to have a point where it would build a bit more resistance and then it would grab as I let it out further.  I even burned a little rubber in the drive for the first time ever.  So I pulled back into the garage right away and looked it over this morning and again adjusted the clutch linkages.  I haven't driven it yet because I wanted to go talk with my mechanic.  He quizzed me and is also at a loss to explain what is going on.  He suggested that I just drive it and see if the clutch action smooths out.

Any thoughts on this?  Has anybody ever had a clutch misbehave after an R&R but without doing any adjustments or changes at all?  I would have thought it would work exactly as before.  The ONLY thing I can think of that might be different, is there is a 66.6% chance that the three arms of the pressure plate were probably not installed in the same position - I didn't note their exact position upon removal as I didn't think it would matter.  Any input is much appreciated!

[64CJ5]

Murphy been lurking in the shadows of your shop?

No way I can give advice on this.  Some one will chime in soon.

[aboyandhisdog]

I just came in from a short drive.  The clutch works as normal except for when the pedal gets to the point where the clutch should start to engage, there is a bit of increased resistance.  And then when the pedal release overcomes this resistance, it wants to engage a bit faster and so you don't have a smooth engagement and the wheels want to spin NOW.   

A similar analogy might be like when you're trying to loosen a nut:  the force builds, builds, builds, and then it breaks loose and your wrench spins quickly all of a sudden.  Not a perfect analogy, but maybe you get the idea.