Theodore a 51 3a project

[cbauer]

Yep, that�s the 66 Tux from in my first post on this thread and from Tin Cup/Selector shaft Falls color tour field expedient tow rig.
That was a epic trip with my dad.

[cbauer]

Going to roll the jeep out into the sunshine this weekend and give him a nice bath, wash alll the dust and grime that has settled in for the past 2 years and get this motor started as soon as I can. 8-)

[cbauer]

So last night I wanted to turn the motor over and check the oil pressure to make sure it was coming up on the guage.
I got my battery and connected the starter and pressed the button and nada! but could tell there was some kind of binding or something not right. I tried to turn the crank and nada! What the Hell!
Teddy is locked up tighter than * hatband! well Q#$*! I cant believe I messed up stabbing the motor in because I was able to turn the flywheel to line up the splines and just guided it in and locked down the bolts, no worries.
So i just looked at the motor and thought well its not the clutch plate, when i was 16 and replaced the clutch in the M38A1 i put it in backwards and would not make that mistake again, so it had to be the flywheel/crank/pilot bushing/transmission?
To make this a short conversation (not) i dropped the Trans/tranfer case which had no binding at all when i pulled it away from the motor and no signs of distress.
What I will tell you is that it was for some reason locked up and would not spin. it had been sitting for however long before i bought it from a guy (newly rebuilt and prestine) 6-7 years ago.
also i keeped fresh oil in it and turned it on ocasion to keep it oiled. So the thing being locked up made no sence as it was fine when it went into the frame.
So as to what it was stuck from no telling, i will tell you that I got the old clutch plate to fit it on and work it back and forth and guess what that dam thing broke free and was a smooth as a prom queens thighs.
I went ahead a took the thans top off to check the condition and it was like it just came off the showroom floor.
So back on the motor and stabbed motor a second time and tried the crank YE HAW we have liftoff! that motor turned over and was spinning like she meant it.
I attached the wires back to the starter and pushed the the starter button and she spun over like it was new! Yaaaaaaa. Oil pressure did not register (dam) what now! ok maybe this old guage didnt work (yes thats it) so i installed the new one on the side of the motor and Houston we have lift off! oil pressure came up to 10 psi just from the starter rpm's and plugs out. OKie Dokie.

All this took place in about an hour and a half. Pull trans out diagnose issue, fix issue, install trans back, Cross fingers after trans (turn crank after every bolt tightened!) and then starter sowed proof of life. Old man dancing a jig again.

Moral of the story? check your transmission that has been sitting for over a year just before you mate the motor and trans together so you dont need to see if you remember how to disassemble the whole contraption 

[cbauer]

Here is the front end Friday pics early or late however you roll!

[cbauer]

Yesterday, I got the ups box with the gen bushings and carb kit. Got to work on some engine stuff now. I had to come up with a bushing to mount the gen so it would line up with the pullys so once I got the bushings in and the rear bolt on, I could make up the difference. I took a piece of 1/2" steel rod and cut it to 1 3/4" then I drilled out the middle to 5/16"for the 2 1/2" grade 8 bolt to go thru. I lined up the gen and needed just a little shaved off the bushing. I made and then bolted it all together. The belt didn't come in with the stuff I ordered so ill need to wait on the results of the aligenment !
I made up a temp dash for the gauges ( Oil and Temp ) cut up an old hwy sign for the plate and drilled two holes for the gauges. then mounted it to the bell housing and tested the guages for operation all good there. I'm thinking on putting a key switch for ease of starting and operation in driving the running chassis phase of this build, easy on easy off once the body is ready to mount.
Now i need to work out a seating arrangement and peddle configuration to operate this jeep while sitting down to drive it.
I got some Dot 5 silicone brake fluid to get the brakes up and going and i guess i didnt do a very good job in tightening the lines cause fluid was leaking everywhere. so i went through and tightned all the lines again and i couldnt get to the  bleeders (Dam Omix ada products!) those bleeders were of a metric size and i think they are 6.5mm. i had to take off the rear wheel and remove the cylinder to get the bleeder of so i can get new ones that will work better. Ill need to do all four wheels with that mess.
one good deal with that brake mess was that the master cylinder i rebuilt with a kit is working very well. so the brakes should be good to go when i get them bled. I do think that a duel master cylinder is a good idea and im thinking on changing to it for the safety of brakes.
 I remember in high school my m38a1 losing brakes and pummping those silly single master as fast as i could to help stop before i ran into the back of a car. I got Lucky!

[squidtone]

Very nice progress!

Going to roll the jeep out into the sunshine this weekend and give him a nice bath,

It is amazing how filthy the nicely restored work gets while working on the rest of it.

[cbauer]

Yep my shop gets quite dirty, I don�t have any roleup doors so dust and all manner of things come on in. I�ll think I�ll get then put up this year!

[cbauer]

All righty then, as I was working in the shop the mail man came cruzin by with my box from Rock Auto with the fan belt in it.
So hell, let�s get this party started! The belt was a perfect fit with my 12 volt gen. As I had been getting fuel lines run and gauges hooked up this past week and making sure oil is pressurizing.
Oh, I also rebuilt a glass bowl fuel pump cause my new old pump wouldn�t do it�s job, I had 3 glass bowls all of which are in various conditions. One made in the U.S. was like new (I have no clue to how I got it) it had a bad diaphragm and one of my off brands had a good diaphragm so I made up a fuel pump from all the used pumps and I have cool glass bowl fuel pump installed and working like a charm.
So once the pump got figured out I pumped gas to the carb and switched the key on and pressed the starter and Teddy started to sputtter and cough and started running!
The motor didn�t want to run but it idled perfect. Hum! Ok carb rebuild was a bust! No that went good? Maybe! Pulled the carb top off checked the adjustments no joy but it did run better with the top part off! Hum! So working the choke looking at it from a different angle I noticed it had the flap upside down or wrong angle it stayed closed not open on the carb. Ok so I changed that most obvious mistake put the carb back and still no acceleration to the running motor.
At this point the motor seemed to be running hotter than it should so I took a break for lunch. Thought about it while eating and ok it needs the be timed. So back up to the shop and I adjusted the new electronic distributor and man did it run like a bat out of Hell!
Remember I have a Supersonic Head on this motor so it should blow the dooors off any competition.
So I have proof of life of a running and fully operational Willy�s Cj3a chassis. Vidio coming soon to a theater near you.
Of course I was watching the oil pressures and temp but it was not good. Way to low for what it should be, I had put the old oil pump back, so I took it off and installed a new oil pump that I got from some parts trading. Got the timing right on the second try and oil pressure up to 20 psi at hot idle, so I am fully 100 percent done with my first L134 motor rehab.

[RICKG]

Splendid.. 

[cbauer]

Proof of Life.
Had to rebuild a glass bowl fuel pump because the new old pump i had on it gave up on its only job. Glass bowl pumps are really easy to work on.

Disclaimer: No animals except beef cows, wild hogs and fowel of both water and land, were hurt in the making of this video. all references to anyone or anything were made in comidic releif.

[cbauer]

Ok so I cant get the video uploaded for proof, you'll have to trust me!

[cbauer]

Well, I have a minor set back, the motor tics away like a clock and I�m very pleased with the way it�s running, BUT... I have a substantial water leak on three of the header bolts mainly the ones I had to helicoil. And also that stupid crown head gasket has a slight weeping coming out of two interior head bolts.
So I will need to take the intake and exhaust headers off for sure and reseal those studs. I�m thinking of removing the helicoils and using JB weld to insert them and then find some other sealer for the studs? I used permitex 2 on the coils and studs but I must not have given it the proper torx. Live and learn.
What would you guys do here?
Inquiry minds want to know!
I also jacked up the rear end on stands and ran the transmission thru all the dears and I must say it was really smooth. No noise, or vibrations and the clutch was spot on. Bleed the brakes with one pint of silicone brake fluid (I�m a big fan of that now it will not eat you paint).
I�ll mount a seat. And drive Theodore around the property for some brake-in time before the body is done.

[mtnman37879]

JB weld, while it's good stuff it doesn't like heat.

[cbauer]

Almost ready for the open road, need to get some cornhead grease for the front knuckles and should be good to go. One more time to go thru the check list, lube chart, oil levels, grease, nuts and bolts tightened,

Ladys and Gentelmen, please keep your hands and feet in the vehical at all times vehical is moving !, incase of an emergency please refer to the chart below the seat, all objects not tied down will be lost forever!

[RICKG]

I was gonna call "shotgun" BUT.........