Too rusty to save?

[1955CJ-5]

Bill,

I'd seen the FAQ....the other thread is pretty amazing.......

My center hump is gone behind the curved center hat channel to the riser...part of the tool box floor is still there. Lid is in there under the plate they welded on...I'm trying to decide if I should remove the tool box and the rest of the added overlays....I may then have a two piece tub, not unlike the one we looked at yesterday that had spent ten years out in a field...

Randy

[F Bill]

If you don't pull the toolbox off you can't really fix the floor.

[F Bill]

Also... if the upper lip of your tub is still in good shape, you can splice in metal underneath it, right at the corner of the tub top. That will save you from having to hammer form the upper compound curves. The lower lip is simple to make compared to the upper. �It really isn't that hard to make the bottom portion of all the tub sides, and the top inch or so is usually still good. That would save you.....$720 minus one sheet of steel.

Also, if you choose not to reinstall the toolbox, you will be eliminating one of the prime rustout areas....You will have to modify the seat frame to hinge from the floor instead of the toolbox top.

Midwest Military makes a center hat channel piece that is curved and is well worth buying to repair that area. SO far nobody makes the tranny tunnel, so you will need to piece that in. All the front floor patch panels are oversize so you can splice into the edge of the tunnel somewhat. Those particualar panels are flat steel, a jigsaw would do a good job of cutting out a set from a steel sheet.

[1955CJ-5]

I agree....I guess I've already gone beyond the point of no return....Time to get the grinder going...

[1955CJ-5]

Tool box is out..

there is another layer of riveted in panels...

They used brass rivets....

[SteveB]

I'm having the same dilemma, save and repair or new tub.  I think I'll start cutting out rust, then figure what I need for panels and do the math.

[1955CJ-5]

So now I'm beginning to think that if I first were to replace the floor of the bed, I would then have something to attach the floor riser to...and with the riser in place then the floor panels could go in, and then hat channels to follow...and after that the rear valance and tail light panels.  The curved rear corners could be a challenge.....

The wheel houses need some work but they are mostly intact...sides are another matter...but with the floors in place I would have something to align the front quarter panels to....

This might work....

[Carls_jeep]

1955, If the other CJ3 tub is solid you should very seriously consider buying it and fixing it up with parts from the rusted out Jeep. You can swap out the F engine and use the unmodified hood.

[1955CJ-5]

1955, If the other CJ3 tub is solid you should very seriously consider buying it and fixing it up with parts from the rusted out Jeep. You can swap out the F engine and use the unmodified hood.

Yes..these two jeeps were almost meant for each other. What ever the one is missing...wheels, engine, windshield wiper motor, hood, PTO, the other has. And what the rusty one is missing, the other has....a solid body....

I just re-calculated the parts from Classic Ent. $2210, and I've almost certainly left a few things out....

The rusty jeep, in addition to a body, needs all the brake components, front and rear spring packs and shackles all around, an easy extra 1K.....tranny is an unknown....The other drives and stops.....


This has been an experience so far but the outcome is still very uncertain.

Randy

[johnrb3b]

Yes..these two jeeps were almost meant for each other. What ever the one is missing...wheels, engine, windshield wiper motor, hood, PTO, the other has. And what the rusty one is missing, the other has....a solid body....

The rusty jeep, in addition to a body, needs all the brake components, front and rear spring packs and shackles all around, an easy extra 1K.....tranny is an unknown....The other drives and stops.....

Sounds like a good case of "the two shall become one".  

[CJPilot]

My 2 cents.

I�m currently �saving� a jeep that was in similar shape to yours.  I did the math, adding up the replacement panels from classic. It came out the same price as a repo tub.   I have considerable welding / sheet metal experience.   I looked in vein for 6 months for a donor.  I ended up buying a whole body kit from Walcks.  I want it to look right but I don�t need a show piece.

Someone on the 2A page said it best �Think of the repo tub/body kit as a starting point.�
I have put a lot of work into mine and I have a long way to go.  Just about nothing lines up and I fine I have to rework everything.

I think a repo body has a place in the restoration of Jeeps.  Here in the Northeast finding a good body on a 60 year old un-restored donor Jeep is hard to do.

If I had to do it over this is the order I�d go:

 Look longer and harder for a donor

Buy the panels from Classic

Buy a kit from Jay at Willys Overland

And last buy the standard repo kit

Best Of Luck,  Steve

[Carls_jeep]

Randy, I am just trying to save you a lot of money and work. I paid $1800 for my Jeep and should have paid $1000 or less. I now have about $8000 in it and it's still a rough and tumble looking Jeep needing a lot of body work.

I believe at this point I would make one jeep out of two.

[1955CJ-5]

Thanks Steve,

I read your thread.

I have been in touch with Jay at W-O, and plan to call him today...

I do think that getting that other jeep will be the best in terms of getting an original tub. In that case, this jeep will become the donor...and then what to do with what is left? I know I'll try to save it...it might be a few years but I don't think I'd part out whatever would be left....

I could put those chrome wheels on it from the other and then install the f-head and the hood with the hole........doing that to an old CJ is just wrong....but it would keep it rolling until something else could be done...

My idea was to get �only one flat-fender! How's that working for me?

[1955CJ-5]

Randy, I am just trying to save you a lot of money and work. I paid $1800 for my Jeep and should have paid $1000 or less. I now have about $8000 in it and it's still a rough and tumble looking Jeep needing a lot of body work.

I believe at this point I would make one jeep out of two.

I paid 1500 for this one and less than 1000 would have been more reasonable...But I have it now and I need to sort this out in my head. Saving the old tub seems unlikely. A lot of work as you pointed out, a big expense and I just will not be able to get all the rust...The only panels that are not rusted are the hood and grill, everything that salt from the roads splashed on is toast...

I'll wait until I hear from the fellow who is cleaning the radiator and go from there...

The inside of the tool box lid still has the original color....

[1955CJ-5]

I've made a decision...

I will forge ahead with repairing the brakes, suspension, getting the engine rebuilt and overhauling the transmission. during this time I will keep an eye out for a donor body.

The one near here is just too expensive..the owner won't budge...I really don't need another jeep to store....and there is something about it that bothers me a little.

It is not perfect, several of the rear valance supports are broken and the back corners are diamond plate...must be something under there that they wanted to hide...The rear road spring brackets have been broken off at one time or another, one was welded back on and the other is bolted to the frame. I crawled around under it for an hour...he had it in his shop with carpet on the floor...and did not feel good enough about it to make an offer...

So, if a donor doesn't show up I'll order a repro from either Kaiser-Willys or Replitub....

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions.....updates to follow...

Randy