Fron Drum Hub Puller

[Shark49]

Can somebody recommend a hub/drum puller that clears the front locking hub casing?  The one I have won't work.

[Rus Curtis]

Can you post an image of what yours looks like?  It's easier to talk from a picture.

[Shark49]

here's a pic

[Chuck W.]

I am confused, you do not need a puller for the front hubs. Once you have removed the two spindle nuts and lock and back-off the brake shoe adjustment, you simply pull the front hubs off by hand. The drums are held to the hubs by three slotted flat head screws.

[Shark49]

well as you can see the spindle nuts are off and on the backside are only the 4 eccentrics for adjusting the shoes.  That's all there is.  I found a video where a fellow uses a spider type puller to remove front drums on a Willys truck

[Shark49]

well it worked and now I see why.  It just needed a little nudge and it moved.  The brakes were pushing against it.  The brakes are way worn on the bottom and barely at the top so that's probably why it was pulling.

[SteveKfl]

It looks like the shoe material is coming off of the top of the frames.  It seems odd to 'me' that the top where actuated by the cylinder pushing outward, is worn less than the bottom surface up against the pivot point.  Are your shoe sets the same on both front wheels, including long/short pad-length placements?

[Rus Curtis]

Thanks for posting those images!  That does help with visualizing!

Glad you figured out the hub.  Your exposure to all this will definitely help down the road. 

You mentioned 4 eccentrics in your post.  I've not seen what those look like inside before.  That bottom anchor does look a bit different than what I'm most familiar with.  Those  upper eccentrics look different to me also.  I'm learning too.

I agree with Steve with what appears to be the liner separating from the shoe.  That could very well be from heat caused by dragging.  But the fact that the wear is only at the bottom seems weird.  A possibility is the upper eccentrics were sticking or not enough travel to remove the slack.  May also want to verify the drum hasn't been turned beyond tolerance.

The Service Manual (SM) describes adjustment in par P-6, pointing out that feeler gauges are used through slots.  Don't know how that would be done if your drums were replaced and now don't have the slots. 

I'd be doing a full brake job on this.  After removing everything, a full cleaning (especially the eccentrics) will help ID what needs replacing and what can be reused.  I will say I had a tough time adjusting mine (just the 2 on later version) in the early days but my new eccentrics are butter smooth now.  I also use a very small amount of Lithium grease on parts that move to cut down on unwanted friction.

[athawk11]

Just a heads up...

A four essentric brake system as shown in your photo is suppose to have the long brake shoe toward the front of the Willys.  Yours appears to be set up opposite of this rule.

[Shark49]

Just a heads up...

A four essentric brake system as shown in your photo is suppose to have the long brake shoe toward the front of the Willys.  Yours appears to be set up opposite of this rule.

Yes I noticed this too.  I ordered new pads and springs etc for the front so should be much better soon.  In the meantime I'm going to drop the tranny and try to figure out why it is leaking so bad as well as get the emergency brake cleaned up and better operational.