Cruising speeds?

[GlynB]

I can drive my Jeep all day long at 30 - 40mph and the temperature stays at 180 degrees or below but if I drive her 'hard' say at a sustained 50 mph, then the temperature begins to creep up towards 200 and I ease off because I don't want to cook the engine.

I've flushed the system and changed the thermostat and water pump so should I just be satisfied with the current situation or is there something I'm missing - like replacing the radiator?

[1955CJ-5]

You might check the timing and make sure the distributor is advancing as it should with speed. Retarded timing can cause higher temperatures.

I've used Red Line Water Wetter with some success..

Also, straight water cools better. Anti freeze is needed for water pump lube and corrosion protection, and of course freeze protection. I use about a 50/50 mix.

[GlynB]

Thanks for that - I'd never heard of Water Wetter, so I guess you learn something new every day.  I've checked and its also available over this side of the Pond (for about $23.50 incl. postage) so I'll get some and give it a try!

[1955CJ-5]

I hope it helps.

I used some in my Model A with 100% water and it seemed effective. It stayed at about 160� all summer, no thermostat...

When it gets a little colder I'll drain half the coolant out and replace it with anti freeze... and put the thermostat back in...

[aboyandhisdog]

My 3A seems to pretty reliably run a temp. of the ambient temp. plus 110F.  So if it is 70 degrees outside, my cruising temp will be 180.  If it is 90 degrees out, I'll run about 200.  And if I am driving hard up a long hill, I can expect to add another 10-15 degrees to that.  Temps of 200-210 don't alarm me at all - temp will come right back down as soon as the load is lessened.

As for antifreeze, I think it is particularly important that you keep an eye on the ph of your coolant.  It should be slightly on the alkaline side (say, 7.5-9 or so), as the gasses from combustion will tend to acidify your coolant over time and that will cause damage to the radiator and other components.  A ph tester is a good tool to have in your shop.

[GlynB]

Thanks for that Tom - I'm not sure I have the nerve to run mine at 200+ it seems a bit rough on a 67 year-old lady! I'm going to try the Water Wetter (arriving Wednesday!) and see what results I get.

Would love to ship my 3a 'back home' one day and drive her along Route 66, but I guess we can dream!

Glyn

[Tumbleweed]

Hello Glyn
I used to work with a lady many years ago from Cardiff - Her name was Mavis Shrank. Small world -

[Oilleaker1]

Tom is dead on about Willys temps. The main problem with old Jeeps tends to be the radiator. If mineraled up and the flow is poor, it will overheat.  Open the cap and drain down the (cool, not hot) radiator.  Take a "torch" flashlight, and look in to the passenger side of the baffle inside your radiator. If you see plugged up tubes or white mineral, you need to flush it out. I 've had pretty good luck with  CLR ( Calcium, Lime and Rust Remover) Do not leave it in there for too long. Just enough to remove the lime. If you have a hole that is limed up, you'll find that too!  :-/ If you run the engine and a rubber radiator hose is collapsing for getting flat, you have a plugged restricted radiator. Oilly

[aboyandhisdog]

Glyn,
I may have given you some erroneous information as pertains to my temps..  I forgot I had a thin "bug screen" right in front of my rad.  Well, I was running a bit hot at the FCT last month.  I removed the screen and the temps. held right at 170-180 for the rest of the week.  I believe a blockage as Oilly suggests would produce similar high temps as my screen.   I think if things are correct with the cooling system, you should expect the temps to hang right around 180, and probably not much higher.