Rear Frame Member

[PaulS]

I prepped my frame for painting this weekend.� If I'm lucky, I might get a coat of paint on this evening.� I started with a wire wheel on an angle grinder, but when I realized there were lots of areas I couldn't get to that way, I got out the sand blaster...� I didn't remove every square inch of old rust and paint, but enough that I think (hope?) I'll get good adhesion with the new paint.

Anyway, no rot anywhere on the frame!� Even the battery carrier, which looked really rusty turned out to have only surface rust.

But I am concerned about the rear member.� I had posted pictures before showing some damage to it, but after sandblasting, it looked even worse.� Pictures below:








This is the bottom surface:





First question:  this doesn't look like the rear member is supposed to, does it?  At the very least, it should be longer, shouldn't it?  Or did someone just cut the ends off at some point?  Note that the two plates welded on near the ends are where the rear bumper that a PO used instead of a drawbar attach.

Second question:  what the heck could have caused damage like that, when everything else looks to be in great shape?

Third question:  now what do I do about it?  The way I see it, there are two real options:  grind out those cracks and reweld them, or grind off all the rivets and welds holding it on and buy a new rear member from Walcks.  Suggestions?

Thanks,

-Paul

[1955CJ-5]

Yes, it should be longer..measured from the frame rail on the drivers side, it should extend out about 13 1/2", and from the rail on the passengers side about 10 5/8 inches...there would be two more body mounts on those extensions, for a total of four across the rear cross-member.

This frame is upside-down




Looks to me that someone may have wrapped a chain around the cross member either to pull something or to be pulled out of somewhere...

I think Classic Enterprises has a rear crossmember, and so do other parts suppliers..

It's the last pictured item..scroll down..

http://www.classicent.com/jeep.php#4164

[Stich]

I have to replace my rear crossmember also. Can you safely cut off the old one while attached to the tub or do you need to support the frame first?

[F Bill]

Access to the rivets and welds might be tough with the tub on but if you can get them out no real need to do anything extra. You might find it easier to pull all the tub bolts and shim it upwards on some blocks.

[athawk11]

That looks like a chain was wrapped around the crossmember.� I am dealing with the same issue.� Mine is not hacked off, so I intend on straightening it.

If I had your crossmember, I think I would replace it.� Just grind off the welds and rivets.� Get some 3/4" x 1" carriage bolts, then grind the head flat to achieve the rivet look.� No one will ever know.

Tim

[Paddy]

My humble recommendation is that you cut the rear member off now.� Frankly, it's all gigged up and it's effectively one of the few aspects of the frame that will always be visible, so I felt when I did mine that I wanted it to look nice and original.� Cut it off, get a replacement from Walcks which may require you to drill some additional holes when it comes time for replacement.� Make sure Walcks sends you the exact duplicate replacement rivets so you can use them to complete the authentic appearance.� As far as how you use those flat rivets, I hand threaded them with a die, 5/16, course thread I think, might have been larger, then used stainless lock washers, and nylon nuts on the back.� So unless you crawl underneath and look, the appearance from the "outside" is identical to the original regarding both the member and it's rivets. I would send you photos of how I did it if I could figure out how to shrink the photos in pc language.  I'm only an apple guy and they make it too easy.  If you send me your email I'll send you some pics.

[Paddy]

Here are some photos of the rear crossmember and the rivet process

[athawk11]

Paddy,
That is one purdy Willys!  Luzon Red?

Tim