Haha, yeah I won't be a stranger. �Still the same cell # too, sorry I missed your call.
It works best with a larger anvil unless you have an Adamantium covered skeleton because the vibrations can shake your bones apart.
Lay it curved up on large flat part of the anvil. �Use a smaller sledge and start hammering from the center working outward. �I would avoid banging directly around the center pin hole to avoid causing a crack at the hole. �The springs are made of fairly soft metal and you will leave small "dings" in it. �Its hard work but as you work outward evenly in both directions you will see the spring start to curve more. �Also its best to have someone else help hold the longer leafs. �Just start banging away and you'll eventually see them curve more. �Bang it too hard and you'll leave larger dings, which I think means you're hitting too hard. �I think there's a sweet spot in how hard you hit it to get the right curve.
After I disassembled my leafs I found a PO had previously mix and matched the leaf packs. �I had some that were slightly thicker and with varying amounts of curvature. �
I think its kind of an artisans craft, a blacksmith's art, and I got varying degrees of curvature between leafs. �Some had a tendency to twist, one leaf wanted to curve laterally. �However when I put the leaf packs back together, the center pins pulled them together nicely. �I did it first because I was poor plus I wanted to see if Durtch's method really worked. �It does work. �I got pretty good at it towards the end, faster as well.
I also toyed around with Durtch's press on a few leafs. �I pressed a few but I found that it was easy to bend them too much. �Without something to properly cradle and support the leaf you can end up with a bent leaf instead of a curved one. �Also, using a press is kinda dangerous.
Also please keep in mind that I am certified by the shade tree only and using the above method may void your factory Willys warranty. �
