R&R engine for the first time...

[1955CJ-5]

Just a couple of thoughts...

Is the resistance there when it's not running?

I guess i would disconnect the control cable from the ear on the clutch control tube and see if the resistance is in the pedal/control tube assembly or further up the line towards the clutch.

Did you use the same throwout bearing carrier?

You might be able to look through the bell housing inspection hole and see if things are working smoothly as you or someone else works the pedal. I can't remember if you can see if the throwout bearing is pressing on all three arms evenly..

Randy

[aboyandhisdog]

Randy, these are some good questions!  I do still have the resistance when it isn't running. 

I will try the "disconnect" you mention, and yes, I did use the same throwout bearing and carrier, which worked great before with my old engine. 

I do have that cut out in the bell housing.  I have it taped over right now but will take off the tape and see what I can see.  Thanks for the great suggestions!

I may try these things tonight or tomorrow.

[Bruce_W]

Tom said, "there is a 66.6% chance that the three arms of the pressure plate were probably not installed in the same position"

You may have hit the nail on the head. It's kind of hard to explain, but as the flywheel and the pressure plate wear and warp, they wear together, even tho the disc is between them. If you didn't get the pressure plate re-installed in the same position (one out of three), the highs-and-lows won't match up correctly, and you will have a grabby or chattery clutch. I'm sorry to hear this. Will it wear in with use? I don't know. It might be worth a try if you can stand it. Any time I remove a pressure plate from a flywheel, if there's ANY chance of it going back on that flywheel, I mark them both with a stripe of paint or some punch marks.   BW

[aboyandhisdog]

Thanks, BW - this is really good to know as I simply can't imagine what else it could be.  I do hope it will wear in in time...I'm not pulling this engine again! 

As to Randy's suggestions...I pulled the tape off the inspection cover and everything looks hunky-dory.  The spring is in place and I can see the upper fork arm in the right place behind the flange on the carrier. 

I also disconnected the clutch cable from the release fork, and I have nice smooth clutch action at the pedal so nothing binding in the linkage. 

BW, I hate to admit it but I feel like you are right on the mark.  Any harm driving with it like that?  I can adjust my technique, but I don't want to screw anything up in there.

[Bruce_W]

  If you can live with it, and adjust your technique to minimize the effect, it won't hurt anything - except - If you decide later to try turning the plate 1/3 of a turn (or 2/3), you may be unable to find the old "sweet spot". It may be gone. I think, if it were me, and I couldn't tolerate it, I wouldn't risk wasting an engine R&R on the 50/50 (or less) chance of hitting the old spot. I would, at that point, replace the pressure plate and surface the flywheel.
   I wonder if one could get to the pressure plate bolts through the inspection hole?   BW

[aboyandhisdog]

BW, that is the conclusion I've come to also.  I don't think it would be worth it for the 50% chance it would be right.  I think...drive it until I need a new clutch!

I seem to have an air bubble near the temp sender as I'm not getting temp on the gauge.  It worked Monday night but not yesterday.  Any thoughts on the best way to bleed this out?  I will run it with the cap off today.  Would it help to get out the ramps?

[Bruce_W]

Cap on, cap off, I can't see that making any difference. I also can't see any reason for an air bubble to form in that location, especially if the gauge worked since the re-installation. Try the ramps, it can't hurt, but I'd bet that the capillary tube has gotten broken and the ether got away.    Sorry to hear that, too...   BW

[Bob W]

Is it possible you swapped ends of the clutch control tube?