Quick Silver

[oldtime]

For detail showing “how” this build was developed; please read this old post: https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/cj3b_bulletin_board/cj-3-trans-model-universal-t4637.html

Assembly now begins….

Slightly modified CJ-3B frame was blasted 4 days ago and primed with SPI epoxy 3 days ago.
Satin black and no top coat is required.
Frame weight is 155 lbs.
D-225 was previously rebuilt using 100% OEM NOS parts. Kaiser and or GM parts only.
D-225 setting on a dolly is rolled into position then the frame was lowered down and is setting on a few wood blocks.
D-225 weight as seen in the first 3 pics is 315 lbs.







Install flywheel with bolts torqued down to 60 ft lbs. Weight 47 lbs.



Install OEM Borg Beck diaphragm type clutch with a NOS Borg Warner driven disk.
Weight 20-1/2 lbs. Bolts torqued to 4O ft lbs.



Install 9774035 bell with OEM NOS release fork and OEM NOS “Green” release bearing.
Weight 12 lbs.

[Bob W]

Looking good!

[oldtime]

Install right and left engine insulators and grounding strap.
Weight 5 lbs.



Install custom built T18/D20 crossmember and insulators.
Crossmember weight 11-1/2 lbs.
Insulator weights 2-1/4 lbs.



Here you see my shortened Jeep maindrive gear compared to an uncut Jeep main drive gear.
The shortest Jeep T18 maindrive has a “stick out“ length of 7-1/8”. That much stick out  will press the pilot up against the end of D-225 crankshaft bore.
FWIW the Ford T18 maindrive gears have a stick out length of 6-1/2” which is technically too short.
Optimum T18 “stick out” into a GM engine is 6-7/8”.



My Jeep wide ratio T18 case was front mount modified to essentially become a GM T18. No need  for a front adapter plate nor do I need to modify the factory BOP bell housing.
Custom GM T18 weight less shift tower assembly weight  125 lbs.
Complete shift tower assembly and cane weight 18 lbs.



Install D20 with special upgrades.
3.16 Tera low gears, Jeep rear mounted parking drum brakes, rare IH factory twin sticks and my custom made bracket that allows me to bolt it to a standard D18 snubber.





D20 weight 87-1/2 lbs.
Shift levers 2-1/2 lbs.

[oldtime]

Install 10 leaf rebuilt Mather front springs with late standard design “U” shackles.
The very late type “u” shackles use all RH threaded bushings.
Install 10 leaf rebuilt Mather rear springs.
Front leaf springs weigh 44 lbs.
Rear leaf springs weigh 54 lbs.
All pivot pins and shackles weigh 6 lbs.

Install D30 front axle rebuilt using 100% OEM NOS parts and Powr Lok limited slip.
Custom spring plates help protect the axle clip nuts.



D30 weight minus the steering knuckles and the axle shafts. (as shown)
Weight 93 lbs.
Front spring plates , clips weigh 8 lbs.
Rear spring plates and clips 8-1/2 lbs.



Install center flanged (1972-1975 vintage) Dana 44 with Spicer Powr Lok. The 1972 -1975 standard gear ratio of 3.73 allows for good cruise gearing as the overdrive is not an option here.
Rear axle minus shafts. (as shown) weighs 103 lbs.

Install axle bumpers; weight 1-3/4 lbs.
Install shocks; weight 16-1/2 lbs.

[oldtime]

Waiting on some new spindles.
In the meantime I got the factory dual bore master cylinder installed along with the correct Dauntless clutch/brake levers attached via the m38 pedal pivot.
Also fitted a new oem factory cable type control clutch.
I made and located my own design for the cable brackets because the originals were designed to fit the T14 transmission. My fitment is very similar to factory design yet located differently due to transmission difference.

The m38 pedal pivot and levers weighs 7-3/4 lbs.
Dual bore master cylinder and bracket weighs 9 lbs.
Cable clutch control and brackets weighs 2–1/4 lbs.

[SteveKfl]

Just curious OT, not trying to be critical, and I'm always ready to learn from others... so... As impressive and detailed as your project is, and a 'learning tool' along the way for me, I must say I am surprised at your choice of linkage for your clutch operation.  I had to modify my linkage location to accommodate a BW R10 electric OD installation set up, with a new "frame location pivot, and a custom trans location bracket for the other end pivot", to keep the bell crank operation, but I chose to replace the flexible cable pull section with an adjustable solid rod (pic attached) for what I felt was a smoother more 'predictable' linkage long term. 
 
Would you mind sharing 'your logic' behind the push/pull sleeve cable linkage choice?  I know "lack of fabrication skills" was not it, as everyone can clearly see throughout the project, you are very skilled and a perfectionist too, with tons of resources.  In my mind, "I would be concerned" about "lubrication issues and/or binding" mounted so low.  Again, I'm not trying to be critical, just curious how this choice was made for the "ultimate 1/1 CJ3A project".  Was it possibly a "weight concern" since you are weighing all the components of every step?  It's a beauty.  Thanks for the details and pics especially.

[oldtime]

No problem Steve.
As you know I absolutely love talking Jeep; be it theory or reality.

First and foremost “Jeep playtime” is mearly a game.
Like others into this hobby; we all set our own rules.
As for me I am only interested in all things Jeep from military inception through the end of the CJ era.

This build represents my interpretation for the best of Jeep components 1941-1979.
I find zero compatible advances beyond 1979.
Like I say I tried to build using only 100% Jeep stock as much as possible.
So “Quick Silver” basically represents a direction that “JEEP” could easily have taken.
I am not inventing only re-arranging for my particular likes and needs.

Yes I could have gone many directions with the clutch control.
I had at my disposal:
1) lever and tube type clutch controls
2) Buschert chain type clutch controls,
3) the factory cable control system
4) I could have opted for hydraulic control.

One of my previous primary build decisions was to go with the Dauntless engine
Each and every decision made influences the remainder of the build.
We must remember we are striving for a complete and synchronous system.

From the factory Jeep used two basic clutch control systems behind the Dauntless.
Lever and tube or cable control.
I chose to go with 1970-1971 CJ5 cable control so that off-road frame flex never effects my control.
I felt the Buschert control was worthy of consideration but I could build a very similar aftermarket control much cheaper and reduce some of the excess weight.
But mainly “chain control” is aftermarket and not truly Jeep.

The cable control is a very good system.
The diaphragm Borg Beck has a plate pressure of 246 lb.ft.
Yes I can easily depress the clutch lever by hand.
Beyond sourcing poor quality components I only know of one possible problem with this system.
The engine must have a good solid ground.
You certainly don’t want your starter motor grounding through the clutch control cable.



If I find flaw with the cable control system, I still have options.
 I will most likely go back to the “time proven Jeep standard” , the lever/ tube clutch controls.

[oldtime]

Install rear axle shafts total weight 33 lbs.
Install rear 11” Bendix brake drum assemblies total weight including all small parts 50 lbs.



Install front knuckles axle shafts.
Install front 11” Bendix brake drum assemblies.
Knuckles and ball joints weigh 22-1/4 lbs
Front chromoly axle shafts weigh 25-1/4 lbs.
Front 11” brake drum assemblies weigh 47-1/2 lbs.
Spindles, bearings, nuts and seals weigh 10 lbs.
Hubs weigh 13-3/4 lbs.
Selectro hubs weigh 6 lbs.

[oldtime]

At this point I am wanting to add propeller shafts but both front and rear will have to be of custom length.
Also wanting to add brake tubes and hoses but here again I will have to source the proper materials to fabricate the the tubes.

So on the meantime I have other items ready to install.
First off I add the starter motor and fasten the engine to frame ground strap direct to it.
OEM Delco Remy starter motor weighs 19-1/2 lbs.



Install rear dump manifolds.
The only real difference between these Fireball manifolds and the early V-6 Jeep Commando is the location of the heat valve.
As seen here the heat valve is on the right side.
Manifolds weighs 18-1/2 lbs.





Here I have installed the excellent 800 series power Saginaw, as was used on 1970’s CJ’s.
Also added the tie rod, pitman arm and drag link.
Power Saginaw box weighs  26 lbs.
Tie rod, pitman arm and drag link weigh 12 lbs.