Rear axle end play

[Ryan_M]

I just reinstalled the axles back into my freshly overhauled Dana 44. There are new axle seals, bearings and races. For some reason I have zero end-play on either axle.� I have a feeling I overlooked something obvious. Anyone see anything wrong in the pic below? If I grab either axle shaft the do not budge in or out. They will turn, but there is absolutely no endplay.

I know I have to shim each axle and measure the endplay with a dial gauge. I just did that on my M38 and was pleased that not only was it easy to do but it landed quickly within spec. It's obvious my brain discards information at a much higher rate than it retains it.

I'm also having trouble grasping how the shims and retainer plate would even work. The shims fit around the bearing race and the retainer fits over it. If there's endpay does that mean the race is moving in and out? That can't be. And I'm pretty sure I don't have the race/bearing combo backwards. Or do I? Thanks in advance. I have my hand ready and waiting to slap my forehead.

[1955CJ-5]

Someone here will know better that I do, but I think it's a little like the end play on the transfer case...once it's too tight you need to back the race out a little....the shims keep the retainer plate from forcing the race in too far....

[Ryan_M]

I just pounded the new race in until it would go any further. I thought the lip inside the axle housing was there to stop the race. Maybe not?

[Bob W]

The outer race will push out until it hits the retainer, it doesn't seat on the inside lip. Try lightly tapping on the end of each axle with a hammer. This will push the opposite side race out to the retainer. Then measure the end play.

[Bob W]

Don't hit the axles hard enough to damage the threads or break the center block.

[Ryan_M]

The outer race will push out until it hits the retainer, it doesn't seat on the inside lip. Try lightly tapping on the end of each axle with a hammer. This will push the opposite side race out to the retainer. Then measure the end play.

Advice from the master himself - "Go hit it with a hammer"

I did. And now I have axle end play. Thank you sir.

[1955CJ-5]

Bob is really getting to know you Ryan...

"Don't hit the axles hard enough to damage the threads or break the center block."

I'd say breaking the center block would take a pretty good whack!

[Bob W]

You are welcome! Just to clarify my instructions. Make sure you tap both axles out before measuring the end play so you get the total end play.

[Ryan_M]

Understood, thanks Bob.

And yes Randy, Bob is catching on quickly. Not to fear, however. Not only do I have my trusty go-to hammer but as an accessory I always have my go-to "smashing block" nearby. It's a greasy garage worn length of pressure treated 4" x 4" that has saved many a thread and other metal components when acting as a buffer between said components and 3lbs of flying hammer wielded by an idiot. It served me well again tonight.

[Carls_jeep]

Be sure you have the same amount of shims on each side. You have to put the cover plate and backing plates on to measure the end play. Then as Bob said, smack each axle with a dead blow hammer and then measure the end play. It should be .005" to .007".

The shims and cover plate space the backing plate away from the axle housing and the outer bearing race will fit inside the shim ID. When you smack the axle it pushes the outer race out past the shims against the cover plate. The spliced end of the axle rides against a block in the carrier assembly and the block is limited in how far it can slide from side to side and is the reason for equal shims on each side, or as equal as you can get them. Preferably within a few thousandths.