steering disassembly

[malcomstrenko]

hello all, � �making some progress getting down to just the frame � � � � �lots of gunk and rust � �what is best sequence to take apart Ross box,drag link,bell crank,tie rods? I have "pickle fork" � � � � � what else required? � � thx

[F Bill]

First you will want to remove the tie rod ends. There is a puller made to push them out but it can damage the threaded end so you cannot reinstall them. What I usually do is use a large pry bar to force them out of the steering arms they are in, and shock them out with a couple hard hammer blows on the round part of the steering arm that they are in. You need to hit in line with the steering arm, not so as to bend it but in the direction it is the strongest. Before you hit them, take the castle nut off and make sure it threads on easily. If not , run a thread cleaning die over the tie rod end and a cleaning type of tap thru the nut, or use a new nut. Reinstall the nut a few turns, but not tight. This way if you mis-hit, you won't ruin the threaded parts.

IF and ONLY if you are tossing the tie rods, you can use a pickle fork to remove them. Pickle forks will damage the boots too.

There is a special puller for the pitman arm, rent one. If your drag link is the rebuildable style just loosen up the ends and remove it.  

[F Bill]

Here's teh basic technique for the tie rod end removal altho the guy doesn't preload it in the direction of removal or leave a loose nut on it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LDsci-izhhc

[jamesr]

Before I began my restoration, my steering was so sloppy I had to begin turning the steering wheel today, to make the corner tomorrow.  After I rebuilt the old Ross box, and steering column,  as well as steering knuckles and bearings, I began the steering rod componets. But before I began I measured center to center between tires.  I also saved all the tie rods and related steering parts.  When I began to reassemble with new steering parts, I measured each old part and matched its length to the new.  Also counted threads too, as a back up.  When I reassembly was completed, I had the original center to center measurement between tires I started with. I had already shimmed the king pin bearings until I got 15 to 17 Lbs. (use a digital fish scale) per wheel of drag. I ended up with 32 lbs total.  I have about 500- 600 miles on my frame up rebuild and I have no wander, no shimmy, and I can actually let go of the steering wheel and the old girl goes straight down the road.  Take your time.  I really enjoyed my restoration. Nice to know that I can actually make a planned corner without saying a prayer first.  God was definitely my co-pilot before I began! He is still my co-pilot, but not nearly as white knuckled as He was before. Enjoy!
Jim

[athawk11]

I would add that the sector shaft and bushing inside the steering box will surely need to be replaced.  This is where the majority of steering wheel slop can be eliminated.

Remove the pitman arm. Remove the box from the frame.  Remove the box cover.  You should be able to slide out the sector shaft.  Inspect the two little nubs that make contact with the worm gear portion of the steering shaft.  If these do not look like nice little flat topped, perfectly shaped pyramids, replace the shaft and the brass bushings.

Note: The box might be filled with grease, but should be filled with heavy oil.  The bushings are undersized and will need to be machined to proper tolerance.  Also, be smarter than me and do yourself a favor...make this repair BEFORE you reassemble your Willys.  

Tim