Front end- rear end rebuilds

[DTFM33]

Ok, did a little searching and did not find a detailed rebuild. I have finally got the engine running and want to start on the front end (Which leaks like $#*@) So, I assume wheel cylinders, shoes...... What do I need to watch for and what suggestions can you guys give?

As usual, thanks!

Dan

[garage gnome]

Do you have a mechanics manual like the one Kiaser Willys sells? If not, it will be very helpful.

Front end is pretty simple to pull apart. A case spreader makes it easier to pull the carriers out. To remove the rear axles, you the brake drum as a slide hammer to pull them out. The only thing holding them in is the press fit of the bearings to the axle housing.

[athawk11]

Hey Dan.

When you say 'front end', what part of the front end are you wanting to work on?  Sounds like you want to do some brake work.

Are you also wanting to rebuild the differential and axles?  Are you wanting to work on the steering?  Maybe the suspension?  Where are you leaking?

Narrow it down just a bit, and you will get lots of tips and tricks from the group.

Tim

[DTFM33]

Thanks for the quick responses! Yes, I have the manual. Basically going to go through the entire front end. Every seal is original on this vehicle, so just wanting to go through everything and paint it up. Brake cylinders are leaking, differential is leaking. So, just looking for tips for going through this entire thing. Has anyone rebuilt brake cylinders, or is just better to buy new ones?

Also, I used speedy sleeves on the drive e shafts due to pitting, seem to work great!

[athawk11]

Dan,
Is the front differential performing well? �If so, I wouldn't tear it open. �Beyond that, sealing it up won't take much. �Front cover gasket with a little RTV sealant. �Sounds like you got the back side sealed up with the help of a speedy sleeve. �

Now you�re out to the knuckles and the king pins. �If they don't need to be rebuilt, then you just may need to do some seals. �I haven't done these on mine, although there isn't much to them. �Depending on the year of your Willys, you may have some shims at the king pins. These are to set the preload correctly. �If there is some leaking around the studs, you can ad a little sealant to the threads of the studs and the shims. �Of course you'll want to clean them up first.

The knuckle seals look pretty straight forward. �An inner soft seal, held in place with a ring and a two part metal flange and some bolts. �If you do these, tell me about your experience. �I am leaking a bit around my driver side and will be replacing them at some point.

Now your out to the brake backing plate and the axle flange that attach to the knuckle. �I don't know if there is a gasket available for this stuff. �I used a small amount of RTV sealant here. �Works fine.

Brake cylinders...hmmm... �I rebuilt all of mine with the kits from Napa. �I even used a cylinder hone to clean them up. �All but one still leaked. �I am in the 'replace them' camp. �Note: �Leaking brake fluid and a new paint finish don't play well together. �I learned this the hard way. �Had I known brake fluid removes paint so well, I would have used it to strip my tub.

Removing the front drums. �Because it is somewhat common to upgrade the brakes, we are going to need to know if you have the original 9� brake set up, or some type of an upgrade. �

I can go on, but I�m already getting a little wordy here. �We are always here to help. �Start with one facet, like �brake drum removal�. �You will have 15 responses with tips and tricks from guys all over the country.

Then on to the next subject�. �What�s all this goowy stuff in my steering knuckle?�

Then the next� �Long brake shoe to the front or rear?�

Ask a simple specific question, and watch this board light up!!

Good luck! [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

Tim � �

[DTFM33]

Tim, wow that is exactly what I was looking for! Yes, the front end works perfectly except for the leaks. I think for $80, I will replace the brake the brake cylinders. I did the speedy sleeves on the output shafts of the transfer case. Will most likely need to do them on the front and rear input shafts too! I found the info on the brake shoes.

Out of town for a few weeks and then back at it.

Thanks again,

Dan

[BMIC]

"The knuckle seals look pretty straight forward. �An inner soft seal, held in place with a ring and a two part metal flange and some bolts. �If you do these, tell me about your experience. �I am leaking a bit around my driver side and will be replacing them at some point."

Tim did I miss something here? My new kuckle seal kit came with the fiber seal and the two half moon flanges. You describe a "ring" along with the other two components. Sorry if I am not outlining the quote correctly. Compared to the rather heavy knuckle seals that I took off the replacements are very light weight, but then maybe I have it wrong.

[athawk11]

BMIC,

I'm no authority on these front knuckle seals.  I've never had mine apart.  As mentioned, my existing seal is leaking and I will be replacing them soon.

I have seen the seal kit listed at Walcks.  I'm not sure what the components are made of, but in the Walcks photo, there is a ring...



I'm not sure how the parts all come together, or if ring is even used for all applications.

Tim

[garage gnome]

I had to put two sets of those in, one on my '49 and the other on the Jalopy. The inner one is rubber a steel, the outer one is felt. You have to cut the outer one with scissors to put it one. The inner one you put on like a keyring.

[BMIC]

Thanks for the picture Tim, those are all the parts I installed. The knuckle seals I removed were quite a bit heavier and had a grove to which a rubber seal was inserted. Just replacing the rubber seal seems like a better way to go but I guess this is the new version. Don I kind of split the thread with you but you may have questioned the replacement part as well.

[Gunslinger]

That kit looks like the one I put on the M 38 A1.  Midwest military has NOS replacements,  we did not cut the rubber gasket as we pulled the whole assembly off, backing ring and all, that way there is no chance of future failure.