Actually the bio ethanol in modern fuels does the same thing as adding acetone. If you rebuild your fuel system and replaced any of the rubber seals with new rubber seals, those should all be Ethanol proof and you will not have the problem of E fuels dissolving the old style rubbers.
Ethanol is a very good cleaning agent and a lot of problems from switching to, for instance E85 in modern turbo charged cars, come from injector gunk. The old deposits left behind by using regular fuel in the past are dissolved by the ethanol and clog up injectors (and carbs needles) Once the old gunk is out, everything cleaned and you have made sure you have Ethanol proof seals there is no need to use acetone. The fuel with the added ethanol will keep things clean for you.
But, Ethanol acts like brake fluid, it attracts moisture, so of you fill it up and not use your car often you will get water in the fuel and all the problems that come with that, including rusting fuel tanks. Cold starts can be difficult if you do not use it often and rough iddling because there is a water mix instead of 100% fuel going into your engine.
It's not a really big issue, in Mexico they use the stuff in much purer form then anywhere else for decades and they do not have any issues apart from worse mileage, if you use your car regularly. Almost any car from the late 80's on should have ethanol proof seals. Any new replacement seals should also be E proof quality by now.
There is alot more on the subject of E fuel and more *crap then thruth. I had a Mitsubishi Evo 8 i was planning to convert to run on at least E85 only. Gaining at least 100 BHP over stock with just bigger injectors and a remap for more pressure. No need for anything else really then clean the fuel system to prevent injector gunk for the first few 100 miles. Only other thing to really worry about was borewash. E-fuels are thinner and wont burn completely with mall adjustment. Leftover ethanol will drain past the piston springs/seals (borewash) and dilute the oil over time causing massive damage through lack of lubrication.
Frequent oil changes (in the case of turbo charged cars on E85 and higher only, every 5000 miles) should counter that problem.
This is just E fuel in a nutshell, my technical english is not good enough to write an entire essay about it, but Google is your friend. This brief incomplete info of me might shed some light on common carb and fuel problems and where to look.
I admit i forgot about that when i posted about the Red Kote. On the other hand always do a test on old cars yourself. Put some of the stuff in a container and dump fuel in it, empty and repeat for a few weeks to see what happens to the coating.
Got a few beers in me atm so i hope i made some sense
