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Messages - BillT

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Note that all rebuild kits do not include the key that indexes the arm to the shaft. You want to confirm that the kit you order includes the part if needed.

stony are you still offering the springs?

it's nice to have things that work isn't it!

Thanks for the link.

This post prompted me to go ahead and install my new throttle cable. As mentioned the cable does slid back to normal idle. Looks like I will be searching for a cable that will hold its setting.

It�s been years since I had a working hand throttle. I can�t recall which Jeep it was, may have been the m38a1, but the throttle shaft had notches that would catch on a lip to hold it in position. I think it had a t-handle and you would turn the handle a quarter turn to engage or disengage it. Seemed like a good setup.

I would say that they would be. I have a '65 cj5 engine that had  tubes bent at 90 degrees that you just slipped rubber vacuum hoses onto. Lot'sa different stuff out there.

pertaining to the flaring tool be sure to ask for a tool that makes the double flare and you will need to have a tube cutter also.

Sorry I can't help with your problem. But to aid in your search the cj3a production ended in 1953 I think. Perhaps the early cj3b has what you are looking for. Do a search for the CJ3B page/forum maybe that site will have the info you are looking for. Good Luck.

Gearboxes and axles / Re: transfer case popping out of 2HI
« on: May 02, 2019, 07:46:02 AM »
I would start with the easy stuff first. Clean up the shift rails. Then see what  happens. Make sure the springs, for lack of the proper name, are there and in good shape. There is one each attached to the shift canes at the rod.

Gearboxes and axles / Re: First post - rear axle lub
« on: October 16, 2018, 12:39:36 PM »
Thanks for the reply oldtime. I need to get another grease gun and keep bearing grease in it.

Gearboxes and axles / First post - rear axle lub
« on: October 16, 2018, 08:46:44 AM »
The rear axle on my '52 3A has zerk fittings on the axle housing ends in the bearing area. At this point should a bearing lub or chassis lub be used? I think it is a Dana 44.

Engine compartment / Re: Cylinder not firing correctly
« on: February 23, 2019, 08:55:27 PM »
Thursday I pulled the manifold from the donor engine. This is some kind of a commercial engine, welder, or compressor, etc. Soaked it a good 24 hrs in diesel fuel. Due to the condition of the four bolts securing the two manifolds I did not separate them to change the gasket. Changed everything out and guess what? No more leak!!! Cylinder no.3 is firing, exhaust no longer putt putts. Yea! Time for a cold beer, or four, after all it�s Saturday.
But all is not good. The exhaust pipe to manifold, the blind bolt hole,  stripped out. It�s not leaking for now but it�s only a matter of time. Only in a Jeep...... oh hell ..... I luv�em.

Engine compartment / Re: Cylinder not firing correctly
« on: February 18, 2019, 12:25:27 PM »
64cj5 thanks for the help but I tried that Saturday, no change. More thoughts are welcome.

Rick I had done that with the current manifold, machined and all. After that failed I pulled it back off and sprayed copper sealant on the manifold to block gasket and the gasket between the two manifolds. No change

I have ordered a set of copper core plug wires and a new gasket kit. Probably be here by the end of the week.

I may go ahead and stick the other distributor in to see what change that makes. I'm thinking about a new coil but I hate to just throw parts at it for a repair, I didn't do that when I got paid for working and don't want to do it now.

Engine compartment / Re: Cylinder not firing correctly
« on: February 18, 2019, 07:53:22 AM »
Thanks Rick, I have about given up on the manifold on this engine. I have a spare engine and will pull the manifold from it and give it a try.
I also have a spare distributor and will try it if no favorable results with the manifold.

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