The CJ3A Page

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - Mike S

Pages: 1 [2] 3
Lucas has a product called Hub Oil that is formulated for steering axle knuckles and trailer hubs. It is the consistency fo pudding.


Steve -- that tractor wheel on NorTool would certainly be in the spirit of an old Jeep... but you should determine the stop to stop turns before you go to a big (16" - 17") wheel. Might be too much leverage?

I have seen Saginaw conversions (if that is what you have) that utilized the stock steering column and steering wheel. This is done with a fitting on the firewall in the engine compartment that accepts and braces the stock column, but the stock column is cut and a CV joint and steering rod link the steering column to the saginaw box. Looks stock from the outside... with the exception of the Saginaw box hanging down in front. With this set up you could probably also get the stock horn button to work.

I suspect that you could do this without replace the entire steering system. With the set up in the photos, I suspect that you do NOT have the stock Ross steering box and drag link. So this might be the best option.

I shaved my stock head until the CC's were 73cc's. I think we are at about 7.3 - 7.5 to 1. Just a guess, and the thickness of the head gasket effects the final CR.

Or... just go to McMaster Carr and look under belting. Lots of choices for a few bucks a foot...

Lee -- I was thinking the same thing... complaints about brass flakes in newly rebuilt T90 transmissions could be caused by a number of things...

New non-ferrous (soft) parts wearing in with use

Poorer alloys being used in new (and presumably foreign-made) soft metal parts

Wear due to poor parts fitment or assembly techniques

OR high sulfur content in some modern oils.

I did a bunch of research and decided to go with Redline 75-90 MT type synthetic after my Jeep mechanic recommended that I use GL-4 gear lubricant in the T90C after rebuild. I will drain after a few hundred miles and expect to see some brass due to parts wearing in. If it continues after break-in, I may re-think my decision.  :o

AFAIK, all the L134 engines were originally built with studs. Lots of them jet swapped around over the years.

It all depends on what you want from your Jeep. There is very little difference between the early chain drive and the later gear drive engines -- everything is the same except the distributor, oil pump, and cam. The heads my be non-ribbed on the military and early CJ engines.

I have a newly re-built chain drive (they were used up until motor 44,XXX - late '46) that is going into my '47. I also have the original gear drive engine for my '47, which I will probably rebuild next year.

With Radial tires generally the taller the tire the wider the rim must be. I have good evidence that a 16", 4.5" wide tire will carry a 215/85/R16 tire, which is about 31" tall.

These tires (Duratrac or Firestone MTs) will go on my WIllys. I am also considering puting my stock centers in 6.5"-7" wide wheels to make a wider, stock looking wheel to run slightly wider tall tires. No decision really made yet.

Nate: I like your Jeeps.

Pull the op off and have a look. A lot of these old Jeeps sit out in the weather and the gear box is found to be half full of water and rusted. This usually requires a new gear cluster set, maybe a main shaft if the water fills the case. I hope this is not the problem with yours.

You might try Break Free on the shift rods in the cover. Sometimes that is all that;s needed.

The 9.25" HD clutch was an optional upgrade and can be retro-fitted to the standard 134 flywheel. You will have to drill and tap the flywheel, and I would rebalance it. It may require a slightly different clutch shaft. I seriously considered this upgrade for my 2A, but ended up putting a standard clutch in.

The HD clutch will withstand higher torque and wear and tear.

I have a 1947 CJ2A - the bell crank is mounted to the bottom of the front cross member... in fact, every unaltered one I have seen is that way. The early 2As have a 3/4" diameter bell crank shaft, later ones, and I think CJ3As, have a 7/8" shaft.

If you are actually going to DRIVE the Jeep I think undercoating with a quality bedliner product is a very good idea.

The DIY stuff is not great, but RhinoLiner or Line-X work well.

Lots of folks (myself included) have installed dual brake master cylinders and lost the pressure switch that services the brake lights. This - or something like it - is the answer.

I like them Tim.

Pages: 1 [2] 3