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Topics - Gunslinger

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / New Canvas
« on: January 14, 2012, 10:24:55 AM »
I've decided to go with the original canvas look for Triple X, any one have any suggestions for suppliers?  I've looked at New Life, nice stuff but I want to do some comparison,
Is Top Bows good?  Need a contact
How about a canvas supplier, any suggestions?

Need some input from the team.
Thinking about upgrading the brakes on Triple X, the plan would be to change to the 10 inch brakes found on wagons on the front, this would include a new backing plate, larger wheel cylinders and new 10 inch drums.  I have most of the parts as they were free to cheap.  My question is, would a guy want to put self adjusting hardware on the front brakes or not?  Generally you see these on rear brakes, but I don't know if they were ever on front brakes or not.

I would plan to upgrade the rear brakes by putting the old front end wheel cyliners on the back, thus increasing the size of that WC and improving stopping that way.  I know this is a 1/2 step from doing 11 inch brakes and I'm still considering it.  But I'm curious about the self adjusting front brakes with this post.

I had pulled the transmission on the 3A to put frost plugs in.  Reinstalled, now it shifts fine from R to 1 and from 1-3. but I can't get it into 2 from any position.  Did I not get the forks lined up when I put the tower back on?  I would have thought if second did not work reverse would not either.  Thoughts?

I just got the motor for Triple X installed and took her for a drive, went 3 miles and it just shut down, no sputter, no cough, nothing.  Thought maybe it was electrical, nope.  The oil pump gears stripped out.

Two questions, this is a fairly new NOS pump, what caused it?  The pump is locked up now, did it lock up and strip the gears?  Or did it lock up when the gears stripped and junk got in the pump?
So now what, I need a new pump, what do I buy and most of all, do I need to tear the whole dang thing down again to clean it out?  Damn this is getting old... >:(

I'm getting ready to put the motor back into Triple X, I read that I should be using dowel bolts to make sure the alignment is correct, so I picked up a couple.  I've got a 3A block its a later version, and an early bell housing.  There are two heavy boss bolt hoels at the top of the bellhousing/motor and two at the bottom.  The side holes seem to be for the bell housing cover plate, the starter motor and the security cable.  My question is "which set of holes should the dowel bolts go into, top, bottom or do I split them diagonally top and bottom.  I'm assuming all I need is two, correct?


Well the machinest started on the Triple X this week, we found a couple interesting things, the valve guides were wore out, which were supposed to have been checked on the last build, but here's the funny one, the connecting rod diameters at the bearing surface were less than the minimum diameter, so they were tighter than spec at required touque, anyone ever hear of that?  We are going to grind them out to spec as we work throguh the other stuff.

Also found that the squirter for the timing gear was at the .070 dimension instead of .040. We decided to change that to .020 as this guy builds race engines and never uses anything over .020 on 8000 rpm motors, I'm going to trust him. We also changed the oil gallery to add a full flow oil filter, spin on type.  Now the oil comes out of the pump, to the filter, down to number 1 rod bearing and through the galley to number 4 and the gage.  So the gage will show the lowest system pressure.

We also checked the cam bearing surfaces, one was at .004, one at .0055, one at .0035.  So were going to look at chroming the cam at those spots to build it up then machine it back to spec dimensions, thought about line bore it and put in bearings but the block is too long for his tools.  Keep you posted on that one, it might be too $$$ for my blood.

As you know Triple X is getting a heart transplant becuase the number one rod bearing went out on her last month, I've had a difficult time understanding the problem, here it is.  When I drive it the temperature would slowly climg to 210 and then stabilze.  Oil pressure would start at 50 psi ( NOS pump from an M38), and then it would slowly drop to about 15-20 psi after about 1/2 hour of driving, stop for a while and get some lunch and the OP would be back to 50 and we start over.  Eventually I lost the number one rod bearing when the OP dropped way low.  Lots of confusion on this issue so let me try a scenario and you tell me if it makes sense.

Suppose the radiator is partially plugged, so marginal cooling causes the temp to run at 200F, the pressure relief on the OP sticks at a significantly open position where I have plenty of pressure with cold oil ( Rotlella 10-40 zinc added) but as ther temp climbs the oil gets thinner and the relief dumps more oil back to sump rather than through the gally, thus starving number 1 rod.  My understanding is that if there is a weak spot in the lube system its at the number 1 bearing.  Does this make sense to you guys?

I've got my motor out for a rebuild so I thought I'd fix a couple leaks while I'm at it.  My transmission has been dropping oil for about a year now, so I dropped it out tonight to see if I could fix it.  The puddles on the floor were about the size of your hand; every day a new one.  Checked the fluid level tonight and its below the lower shaft.  It looks like the seal between the tranny and the transfer case is the culprit, all the bolts are tight and the gaskets were new at the rebuild 18 months ago.  Any suggestions as to how I can get that seal to be leak free?


I've got CJ3A #58778, and I've had a ton of motor trouble.  Tonight I looked at a rebuilt L134, he wants $1200 for it and it runs out nice, no smoke, no rattles.  Here's my problem, the motor is casting number RJ314505, assembly number 914364, the motor tag says its a 2A motor, I'm thinking its a 49.  My 3A is an early one, it has a Dana 41 rear axle and a 2A hood that I believe is original.  

Will this motor be a drop in to my 3A?  My bell housing is original as is everything around it.  Hope to know soon as I have to make a call on buying the motor by Wednesday night.

thanks Team 3A

I've got a set of aftermarket springs on the front of the jeep, backs are original, the ride seems awful rough, as the front seems to hammer on every bump in the road.  I rode in an original, unmolested 3B the other day and it was a considerably softer ride.  I've heard of putting Wrangler springs on the front as an alternative to the aftermarket version.  Does anyone have any experience with this? Does it really help?  Are they difficult to put in? Are there any other options to softening the ride a bit? Sorry I'm asking a lot of questions, but I don't want to jump into this unarmed.

Thanks for the help

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Hood fit
« on: August 14, 2011, 09:04:56 PM »
Does anybody know if the 2A and 3A hoods are the same or different?  My hood sits flush to the fender at the front of the vehicle, but there is about a 3/4 inch gap at at the rear of the hood between the hood and fender.  I was just looking at the picture on the web site and that hood looks flat from back to front, mine is definatly at a downward agle from windshield to grill.  One other thought is that the hood hinge is built into the hood, not a bolt on seperate item.


Anybody have any experience with clearing up a sticky lifter?  I rebuilt the motor but I know I did not get the lifters back in the same holes they came out of.  Adjusted the valve clearance a couple times so I am sure they are right but I still have clatter.  Any suggestions?

Hey guys, I remeber someone posting a very detailed description of how to mount the cas can carrier on the tail gate, I remember pictures and dimensions.  Can whoever did that repost it please, I looked on the tech page and didn't see it there, unless I missed it?

Hey guys, I found a source for Ever Dry spark Plug kits, if anyone is interested I'll try to post some pics and the supplier, they were  $29.00 for set of six, included the metal cup and the rubber plug cap.  I bought a set and put them on the 3A, they look like pretty high quality stuff.

Well I just want to say thanks for all the help you guys gave me onthe oil pressure issue, thought an update was in order.  I pulled the motor out and took it apart, I found that the rear main seal was totally disintegrated and the pieces went into the crank and wiped out the rod and main bearings. That had to have happened right at start up cause the OP never did come up to where it belonged.  I showed it to the guy that originally put it together, he said he had heard from the G503 guys that this can happen with some brands of seals.  I'll check and make sure I get the right brand names before I post them.  Looks like dejavue all over again.  rebuild time. :o

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