The CJ3A Page

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Topics - Gunslinger

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 6
Just got out of the jeep, It's about 25 F here today. Jeeps been sitting for a week, started it up and drove to the grocery store, it came up to temp and ran fine.  I did have to choke it to start as usual.  Store is five miles away, engine came to temp,and we parked and shopped for about thirty minutes.  When we came out I started it and it ran rough until I choked it, maybe a quarter choke, ran it like that for five minutes, took it off choke and it ran fine all the way home.

It does this in the summer as well.  If I don't choke it it will die, but it only acts like that after a drive, and only for five minutes after restarting.   I've' installed the shield that goes over the exhaust manifold to deflect heat away from the carb thinking that when it was sitting the gas was boiling out of the carb, but that doesn't seem to be the culprit, any thoughts guys?

Stumped in Minneapolis

Have any of you measured the curvature of the rear springs, unloaded?  Triple X developed a bad lean to the passenger side this year, I thought I had a broken leaf as the rear are pre resto.  I pulled the pass side off tonight and all are ok, measured the curvature by standing the pack on the bench and measuring from the top leaf to the bench top, it was 5.75 inches.  Any ideas if this is close to what it should be.  The lean is probably a good 1.5-2.0 inches.

I have a squeak in the front left break, so that prompted a service event.  Due to an adjuster problem I decided to pull the drum, no problem until the outside bearing and all associated hardware was out, the drum was just hung up, tight breaks I thought, adjusted them in and used a couple cheater bars to lever the drum off, it was a little sticky but came off.  Low and behold the inside bearing and the seal are still on the spindle.  Nope it's not welded on, plenty of grease, bearing turns freely, but its stuck on the spindle like it went over a detente.  Some pry bars and a little leverage later and both are off, spindle show no damage or discoloration, bearing turns freely and there doesn't seem to be any weird wear on the spindle.  Has anyone ever see this?  Any ideas?  I'm wondering I'm wondering if the bearing cone was too small out of spec.  Looking for some ideas.

Gents need some council from the Willys Gurus.
I'm looking at page 157 of the jeep universal manual, part number 9 is the Control tube, I need to know how much side to side movement is acceptable in a properly installed control tube.  Mine has a bit over an inch of side to side, I think that is too much but I can't find any shims that might be missing.

I'm in the process of ripping down the brake and clutch pedal assemblies as my brake pedal has too much slop, so now is the time to fix the rest of the linkage.


I just noticed my gas tank vibrates in harmony with the low idle on the jeep.  When I installed it I know it's metal to metal.  What are you guys putting between the tank and body of your jeeps?

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Frame horns?
« on: October 10, 2012, 07:06:38 PM »
Dumb question time, I know Bob W will jump on this but I was looking at a 2A last week and got to wondering if a 3A is supposed to have frame horns?  My bumper is just bolted on to the frame and there is no contraption like the bumper supports on the 2A.  Does anyone have a picture?

Confused in MPLS.

I've read the posts on setting the metering rod and they are very informative, what I'm wondering is this, what kind of behavior (Motor/Jeep) would be an indicator that the metering rod is not right.  I would guess that there are the very gross indications of a problem, but what are the very subtle indications?  You know the kind that may indicate that the rod is just a little out of whack?

My jeep runs pretty good most of the time, but with all of this RePOP stuff out there I've come to think that a lot of this stuff has to be "adjusted" by a good mechanic to make it "Right" as compared to " OK".  

How hot does your tranny get?  I just came home from a 35 mile drive, we were out a little over an hour on tar and gravel roads, doing about 35-40 MPH.  It seems that my tranny and transfer case get a little hotter than they should, the sheetmetal cover over the shift tower gets warm to the touch, won;t burn you but after about 30 seconds its uncomfortable for your hand.  When I got home I crawled under it and I could not hold my finger on either the tranny or t-case, 2 seconds was way to warm.

Wondering how hot you guys trannys get, I know mine leaks a couple table spoons out the shift tower every time I take it out, so I will be checking levels before the next ride.  What do you think?

My 3a has a rebuilt motor with about 500 miles on it, so not quite broken in yet , but close.  In 70 degree temperatures it runs at a constant 170 degrees F, no problemo.  The last few days have been in the low 90s here and the temp will jump up to about 190, maybe a little less, but it seems to stay there.  Do I know the radiator is good, maybe.  I bought one used that had "little hours during restoration" on it.  Took it to a shop, they cleaned it and flushed it and said it had good flow.  I'm just curious what you guys are seeing for coolant temps in this hot weather.



Hey Gents,
I bought one of Carl Walcks Tight steer devices and installed it today.  Boy is that nice, almost all of the side to side play in the sterring wheel went away, the bump went a way and its real smooth all through the steering cycle.  Nice job Carl !!

I had an original Speedo in Triple X, the cable went bad, caused the speedo to jump around and eventually broke the needle.

I bought a new repro unit, it worked well for the first season, now since this winter its been funny.  When I start out driving it will be at zero mph, as I drive it continues to climb the gage even when I am at constant speed, eventually it will come all the way around to the bottom of the gauge.  When I stop it will slowly climb down the gauge and rest someplace between zero and 10.  If I loosen the cable the speedo drops to zero right away.  I did replace the cable with a new one, no joy.  I'm baffled.  I also re ran the cable so it penetrates the fire wall directly behind the speedo, so no kinks or anything.

I did find someone locally that can rebuild the speedo, but they want $165.00 to open it up and the cost goes up from there, I also don't want to keep buying repro speedos.  Anybody have any suggestions?  I'd like to put the original back in, but I don't know how to replace the needle.

In a funk.  This is not a big problem as I'll never get a speeding ticket and the odometer works just fine. One other thought, there is no oiler on the repro like there is on the original.  I have tried to oil through the cable connection but it did no good.  
The repro is fine as well if I can get it to start working right.

Does anybody know the correct dimension from the top front corner of the windshield to the inside edge of the body where it meets the tailgate?  This is the diagonal dimension from front to back, highest point on the jeep to the farthest inside corner. I'm trying to figure out if my windshield is at the proper angle.

Do any of you guys have a good idea where the footman loops are located on the back end of the 3A?  The tailgate loops are pretty clear, what I'm concerned about it the location of the ones on the body.  Do they go on the top of the top of the body like the ones on the side, or do they go on the back in line with the tail gate loops.

Pics would help

Hey gents, on that oil pump thing. �I bought a brand new NOS pump from Midwest Military and due to some operator issues I had to put in a new cover gasket. �I got a NOS cover gasket from MM and put it in. �It worked just fine. �When I had the motor rebuilt the rebuilder put in a Felpro cover gasket, just doing his job. �After about 3 miles the engine shut down and I had the same problem, the oil pump locked up, tore out 3 teeth, but fortunatley no problem with the cam shaft teeth. �I replaced the gasket with a new NOS gasket and that pump is fine!! �I think the problem is that the new Felpro gaskets don't give the proper .006 inch gap and then the pump locks up. �It may not be the pump but the gasket.
Maybe this should be its own post, Moderator you decide.

What do you guys know about the MC Heat shield?
Is it standard equipment or an option?
Is it neccesary?
What happens if you don't have one?
Triple X didn't have one so i didn't bother with it, do I need one?

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 6