The CJ3A Page CJ3B.info

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - BillT

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 6
1
Back in the eighty's I installed a LOCK-RIGHT in my '52 M38A1. I think they have the same rear end, but wouldn't swear to it. Easy install and have had no issues with it since then. I don't think there are many choices available.

2
Your CJ-3A Project / Re: Rockgod1619's '51 CJ3a Project
« on: July 08, 2020, 08:41:57 AM »
From as much as I can see you are starting out with a good body. Have fun with your rebuild.

3
Electrical Systems / Re: Amp gauge insulators
« on: June 20, 2020, 09:09:11 AM »
Sorry for the late reply guys, had a long hard day yesterday.

Thanks to both of you for the ideas. I certainly would never have thought of a Bic pen as a repair part. Ingenious. And thanks for the link to the 'store-bought' insulators, those look great. I need to get me one of those big ole catalogs.

4
Electrical Systems / Amp gauge insulators
« on: June 19, 2020, 07:12:31 AM »
After installing a new wiring harness, from Walcks which went very well, I developed a 2.4 amp short circuit. Traced the problem to the amp gauge and was able to stop the drain by loosening the terminal nuts and wiggling the retainer bracket a bit and then tighten the nuts. Short went away but I know this is only temporary. Do any of you folks have a fix for replacing the insulators on the retainer bracket, or, are the parts available from vendors?

5
Electrical Systems / Re: Grounding straps
« on: April 28, 2020, 09:54:39 PM »
Thatís a good point Mark. I have the new wiring harness and will be starting the install in a couple of weeks. And as long as we are talking about grounds, somewhere I saw a grounding strap that was to ground the hood to the body. Whatís up with that?

6
Your CJ-3A Project / Re: ?Another 1951 USN CJ3A?
« on: April 26, 2020, 09:07:15 AM »
Very nice turn-around on your jeep.

7
Website Feedback / Re: Server Down
« on: April 18, 2020, 09:06:28 AM »
Thanks for getting it up and running!

8
Engine compartment / Re: Rear main seal questions
« on: April 11, 2020, 09:42:40 PM »
Yes I experienced the same thing. My rear main had been leaking for long before I purchased it. Then it was pouring after I attempted to to correct the problem. The oil was dropping down the back of the block,  never made it to the bell housing drain. Never had a clutch problem.

9
I agree with you Tx. I know my block and head are not perfect, wish they were, but it is what it is. I went ahead and retorqued at about 150 miles, engine at slightly above room temp. All nuts moved slightly, but wasnít able to use the same torque wrench that set the nuts after the rebuild. That could have had a bearing on the nut movement. Iíll torque it one more time in the near future.

10
Engine compartment / Re: Rear main seal questions
« on: April 01, 2020, 11:58:08 AM »
Tom I certainly am no expert on this subject but I am willing to share my dismal experience with the rear main seal.

Mine was leaking, a number of drops overnight, when I purchased the jeep nearly three years ago. It was needing an engine overhaul but the fun-money account wasn't there yet. I wasted good money on seal renew concoctions. So I, like you have done, started studying up on the subject.

I decided to do the in-place replacement. So I jacked up the front end, dropped the oil pan, removed the lower bearing housing, and loosened the middle main bearing a bit. The engine had the old style seal, the seal had a shoulder the laid over the housing edge. I used a piece of heavy copper wire to push the upper half of the seal out of its groove. Cleaned things up. The replacement seal was the Best gasket. Installed it, using a small amount of sealant where recommended. Put it all back together, started it up, and it poured.

To not bore you with all the details, the Best gasket was deemed defective and was replaced with the same results. With the upper half of the Best gasket in place , the lip on one side was tight on the crank surface but the other side was loose on the crank. I hoped when the lower bearing half was installed compression would correct this situation. But no luck.

 I shoved an oil absorber mat between the oil pan and bell housing and lived with the 'tampon' for a while. I did try a Crown seal but it was a poor fit, too loose in the grove. I tried a Omnix seal but could not get the upper half to slid thru the groove. So I went back to the 'tampon' until this past January when I rebuilt the engine.

With the engine on the stand the first thing inspected was the seal. Nothing looked out of the ordinary, the crankshaft was polished. My buddy helping had used a seal he got from Summit Racing on his f-head and had good luck with it. So I tried that one, I think it's an Omnix, it has the shoulder that fits over the edge of housing like the original seal, and with 140 miles on it so far no drips.

I know some here have had problems with the Omnix brand seals but, for me, it's working for now. Best, no pun intended, of luck with your repair.

Bill

11
That makes sense Mark. Thanks for the tip.

12
Stony I think what you did pretty much follows what the SM recommends, good for you. I've got just over a 100 mi.'s on my rebuilt engine and if no concerns pop up I am going to check the torque around 200 mi.'s. Thanks for the post.
Bill

13
hi John.... you thawed out yet? Why don't you come on down to SC and get that slush out of your veins? lol

That sounds like a doable plan. I will try that. While waiting on my parts to get here I was tinkering around with the idea of taking a piece of tubing and work it to fit the od of the shaft and use it to push the spring in place. I figured it would be a pia.

14
Sorry, I had to change computers. My Ipad  and the 3A page don't get along very well when posting.

I was just checking to see if someone may have found a trick to getting the lock spring reinstalled. Not having a pair of pliers to get the spring out I used a dental pick to get it out. Not looking forward to reinstalling it.

All the manual mentioned about installing the head was to follow sequence, did not mention warm or cold. So it probably doesn't matter. Ill go with cold.






Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 6