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Messages - MikeB

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Website Feedback / Missing threads
« on: August 26, 2019, 09:14:08 PM »
It may be me or Im just getting older but a few threads seam to have gone missing in the migration of forums. I cant find anything from the modified cj3a section of the old forum. Looks like basically all my post and build thread are gone?

That is some impressive and patient  work, most people would have turned the block into a boat anchor and found a replacement. I glad It worked out and is running leak free, great work and good job in saving the block.

I have seen people cut holes in bellhousings before, some times it�s for a quick trail fix to get acces to the clutch and release arm etc when you are not in a position to pull the engine. And I�ve seen it done once when mud got sucked into the bellhousing while fording and dried overnight and had to be chiseled out the next day to make it back to the highway to be trailered home.

You don't need to get custom steering and pedals, just find a nice donar car or cars.

I have a GM 4.3L V6 in my M38 (3a) the steering is a Saginaw set up, power steering pump, clutch, gas and brake pedals and linkage from a chev S-10, steering rack from a CJ-7. They all work nice with the motor.

Your going to want to beef up those axles and brakes, 200hp will start bending stock axles and the stock brakes won't be much use either.

And if you want to keep the low hood line of a 3a, a 1 1/4" body lift will give you clearance to mount your motor without having to go to a 3b body and hood.

Dumb question but it's got to be asked.

Which way do you mount shocks?� Cylinder down, boot on top, like the first picture. or cylinder up, boot on the bottom, like the second picture.

I've always mounted them cylinder down, boot on top, to protect the rod from debris, but have recently been told I'm wrong. I don't like being wrong.� :D

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Gas Cap ID
« on: December 27, 2016, 04:51:17 PM »
Here a pick of the tank in, it looks like the previous owner made himself a larger tank and grafted on the filler neck. I had been looking for a new tank, but the M38 tanks are a little pricey up north $650 [ch128563]

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Gas Cap ID
« on: December 27, 2016, 04:04:04 PM »
I have a none standard gas cap on my 52' M38, needs either the seal replacing or replacing out right, only catch I can't find one that fits. It's not the standard M38 cap, I think it might be from a CJ3 or later CJ can anyone help narrow down where the cap came from.

It's not vented, has two prongs and the filler neck is 2 5/8 wide with a 1 5/8 opening.

I've attached a few pictures if that helps.

Thanks Mike

Any one have any experience using the CJ3A or M38 front roll bar/cage kit from extreme custom parts

Looking at adding the from roll bar and tying it in with my stock rear.

That is an interesting write up in Hemmings, Patrick.

MikeB, do you have a source of that graph?� The K&N and the AFE filters are very similar yet seem to vary considerably in performance.� I have a K&N in my Passat, and AFE in my Tacoma, and now an Airaid in my Willys.� I couldn't find performance data on the Airaid website so sent them an email requesting such.� Maybe I'll hear back, maybe I won't.� Will post performance data if I can find it!� It seems like there would be a lot of filter performance data out there, but I'm watching football today! ;)

Sorry been busy, the original article came from consumer reports and was reposted in a diesel performance magazine, it is about ten years old.
On modern cars with the tighter tolerances they are more susceptible to damage from �dusting� which is allowing fine particulate into the engine. And I have a more modern motor in my Willys (only 29 years old, compared to the 60 year old originals)� ;D something I forgot to take into account when I posted my response. The K&N style filter should do no more harm than a stock oil bath, as long as you don�t use a cheap knock off with a substandard filter media.  When you think about it the original motors were built to be used in the worst possible environment with minimal maintenance.

I would still be very interested to see the oil analysis of a stock air filter set up us an K&N style.

Not sure how effective a stock air filter is, how much dirt it allows past. But with the K&N style filters they flow better and get more air into the motor because they have a less porous filter element, meaning they allow more dirt into the motor. The pre filter wrap helps with this but I�m always worried about the fine particulate that gets past. I�m being a little hypocritical because I run a K&N on my M38 but only. Cause it is the only filter I could cramp into the very limited space left over from the engine swap.

It would be interesting to see the before and after oil analysis.

I just posted this in case someone needed to go a similar route I had to. With the wider axles and lift I had, the stock shocks would limit the axle articulation, adding longer shocks allowed a greater range of movement and prevented the shocks from over extending.

wanted some rear extended shock mounts to fit longer travel shocks to my M38. I found you can use the M.O.R.E YJ shock mounts with a little modification to fit the M38, should work for the 3a also.

They attached to the stock mounts, you will need to remove the pin on the YJ mount and drill into the frame and use a 3/8� spacer at the stock mounting point. It gives you 4� of extra shock travel and for me it reduced the shock mounting angle.

Hope someone finds this useful.  :)

Sure do, you need a windshield channel, I mistakenly said in my above post it came with the top, it did not you have to buy it separate. I believe it is bestop part 5120901. It's a two piece channel, you have to trim a bit of the inside end of each section to make it fit the narrower CJ3/M38 windshield frame.

Like I mentioned there were two widths of CJ5 windshield frames, you want the bikini top for the narrower one.

Hope the pictures help, my top isn't stretched tight as I was just working on a roll cage on the weekend.

I too used the cj5 bestop bikini, I have the tan version, it fits near perfect, however I mounted mine to the windshield frame slightly different. And didn't need to trim the top at all.�

I used the channels that came with the top, trimmed 1/2" of each piece at the flat end and mounted them to the top of the frame. The curves on the channel match the stock frame, just mounted the snap rivet a inch or so down the side of the frame, a little black silicone under the bestop channel made it water tight, had it mounted for three summers now, never leaked once, including this summers Wet season.

There are two sizes of tops for the CJ5 51 to 75, and 76 to 83, the later is the narrower top I believe. The windshield frames are different widths, I believe I have the narrower top, hence the better fit with no trimming , shame I didn't find your tread a few months ago, I could have pointed you in right direction and saved you a trip to the upholsters.  My whole set up cost $50 shipping included.

EVERYTHING ELSE, General tips / Re: Useful tools.....
« on: September 09, 2014, 02:25:35 PM »
A useful tool for removing or freeing stubborn cylinders heads is 20 feet of 3/8" soft rope or twine. Remove all cylinder head bolts, remove all spark plugs, find the cylinder that is at the bottom of its stroke. Feed in the rope thru the spark plug hole, one you can get no more rope in the cylinder either bump the starter or turn over the engine by hand. The rope will be compressed in the cylinder by the up swing of the piston and will push the cylinder head free and up. Make sure you remove any manifolds and accesories that are connected to the head first.

This way there is no need to try to pry the head up with a pry bar etc! and the rope won't damage or scratch anything.

EVERYTHING ELSE, General tips / Vin Plate repair?
« on: January 21, 2017, 01:30:04 PM »
Ok, so the dash mounted Vin/serial number plate, on my 65 year old M38 is showing the signs of being 65 years old and in a location that gets a lot of traffic.

The serial number is becoming faint, so faint it is becoming hard to read. 

This will be an issue if I ever sell the Willys or get an inspection. No readable vin, no registration, no drivable Willys!

So is there any place that can re-stamp the serial plaque and it be legal. I would hate to loose all the hard work put into this jeep, as getting a new title where I live is next to impossible.

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