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Messages - Mike S

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I feel your pain. Currently MD Juan is the only one that makes complete bodys. I aggree, fix the original if at all possible or buy another original Jeep tub/body. On the shifter not being centered, my son figured out how far it needed to be moved, and oval cut the hole out, turned it around, and welded it back in. The list is long and painful of ill, non fitting items. John

John There is a long list of corrections that I needed to make and the tub is STILL not right. The original hood does not fit well. The fenders do not fit well. I had to take pieces off my other two parts tubs to complete the body. And I used my original windshield, hood, grille and tailgate. The only this new was the tub. I spent about $10K and the tub, fixes, body work and paint. I would probably have saved about $5K if I had started with Classic Enterprises parts.

I am finishing my CJ2A. I will begin looking for a good original tub and eventually replace the MD Juan tub.

If MD juan would SERIALIZE the tubs and record all changes by serial number range, it would help people like me. I spent a lot of money 'fixing issues' because I was sold an older tub. If I had better information I could avoided the problems and would have saved 2X the cost of the tub I bought.

As it is, I believe that I would have been money ahead to buy all the parts from Classic Enterprises and built a tub from the components. Seriously.

Thank you. Very helpful.

Can anyone tell me where the clamps for the fuel line are located and attach?

My tub is at the body shop but it looks like I forgot to drill the hole in the cowl brace for the sending unit wire as well.� What do I need to do to prevent rust where I drill the holes?

My replacement tub was built in February 2015.� The pto shifter hole was there, high beam indicator hole, fuel hole, pedal holes, and all gauges.�

Problem was the gauge holes were too small, the fuel tank holes were in the wrong location, and the brake pedal hole was off >:(� Nothing a welder and a burr bit cant fix but dang its frustrating.

Welcome to repop land! I have an MD Juan repop 2A tub that I am just about finished with. Fortunately I had 2 original tubs to pick parts from. We had to rework nearly everything and add as many original parts from the older tubs as we could.

THE SIDE BRACE WAS NOT DRILLED FOR THE FUEL GAUGE WIRE - JUST DID THAT TODAY. I used masking and a bit of color matched spray paint to prevent rust starting.

Some of the gauge fit - others I had to enlarge the dash holes.

No PTO hole so I cut one from one of my other tubs and fitted it.

The fuel tank holes in the floor did not match my fuel tank.

Th tool box lit was a disaster. Used a tool box lid and catch from one of my original tubs,

Bow pockets and storage pockets missing - needed to graft them from another of my tubs.

The seats did not fit - and at least one was an original seat. Spent a lot of time re-working seats and tub to resolve this.

The hood (original) needed to be worked on a lot to get it to fit. In the end it was a compromise.

Most of the dash holes were there, but no ignition key hole. Did have the high beam tell tale light hole.

[reason]add a photo[/reason]

Usually, when new clutch is installed the shop will resurface the fly wheel. But it is only really needed if t is glazed, rough, or rusted.

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Fuse?
« on: January 10, 2015, 03:37:53 PM »
Fusible links are available in various amperage values in most auto parts store. They are common on Toyotas, for instance.

It would pretty easy to put a small blade fuse panel on the front DS fender for the headlight loom.


If it were me, I think I'd pull the whole drive train� since it is not certain exactly what broke.

PS: You need to stop doing wheelies!

I am planning on a set or 235/85/R16 IROK NDs on a set of Jeep 16X6 steel wheels. The will be about 31" when mounted and looking at my current tires I expect they will be about right.

Had the same problem on my new tub. Moved the seat perch to line everything up properly...


'The T-90 used from used from 1963 to 1971 with the F-head four-cylinder engine is designated as the T-90C. It features top shifters, a seven inch input shaft (stick-out length) with 15/16ths inch, 10 splines and a felt-sealed front bearing retainer assembly. Since the T-90C uses a case marked 'T90A,� you will need assurance that the transmission in question came from a post '62 Jeep, or you will need to pull the top cover and count teeth. The T-90C has a 16-tooth, helically cut input gear. The cluster gear has a 35-tooth driven gear, resulting in a 3.44:1 first gear and a 1.85:1 second gear.

I changed my T90-A1 to T90C gears. You need a new cluster and main input shaft, as the gears are different. Case is the same. Herm has the gear sets.

When I re-built my T90, I got the T90C input shaft and gear cluster from Herm.

In the Willys service manual you will find the torque specifications for engine and chassis on page 275 - table U55.

I think the crankshafft pulley nut is like 180 - 200 lbs./ft.? Not sure however.

Calvin and Mark...

Thanks for your confirmation of the Lucas Hub Oil product. I liked the idea of suitable product packaged in a one quart squeeze bottle. No mixing, easy to fill the knuckle, and generally available. Thanks again!


EDIT: another plus is that they specifically state that it is safe to use with synthetic lubes.

So Bill... you're sayin' this stuff won;t work. Seems like pudding to me and Im in sunny California.

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