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Messages - JeepsterJim

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Buy, Sell, Trade / '74 CJ-5 parts
« on: September 08, 2019, 11:50:50 PM »
For those who may need later model parts for their project. :)

304 V-8 bell housing, T-15 trans, and D-20 X-fer (missing shift lever) 
Pulled as 1 unit---Selling as 1 unit  $300.00

304 V-8 cast iron 4 barrel intake---$75.00
304 V-8 factory  carb---$50.00
304 V-8 exhaust manifolds---$100.00
'74 CJ-5 springs---all 4 $150.00
D-30 narrow track front diff----missing brake, hubs, and steering linkage---$150.00
AMC model 20 rear diff----missing brakes and hubs---$125.00
standard CJ rear hitch---$75.00

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Engine swap?
« on: September 03, 2011, 01:41:29 AM »
Redrockman - currently, the linkage is jerry-rigged. I have not be able to locate throttle linkage parts to rebuild. I have an accelerator cable running from the pedal to the throttle. I've only looked online, so if anyone has a line on a parts supplier, that'd be great.

JeepsterJim - how is the wedge shim oriented? My 3a is still a long way off from the dunes, but interested in the shim.

Also - what was your solution for the air horn? Would love to see any pictures of that!


JeepsterJim - how is the wedge shim oriented?----I don't remember think I was around 12yrs old.  it was to help keep the float or float level stable when dune running.

Also - what was your solution for the air horn?---I believe Dad used one off of a "poojoe" well thats how it sounds lol  One of those ugly euro cars.  Search on the internet for this conversion.


"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Engine swap?
« on: September 01, 2011, 10:19:37 PM »
Dad and I installed a F head in our 2A and we used the Falcon carb. We also made about a 3 degree wedge shim that fit between the card and intake. This helped to prevent flooding when dune jumping.  ;D ;D  The performance was greatly noticed and so was the gas milage.


When I worked for a 4x4 shop years ago, the owner, who was a willys "Jeep" mechanic,  made us use a center punch and mark the pinion shaft, the nut, and even the yoke so ALL parts could be assemble as was.  We would have to count how many revelutions it took to remove the nut. Once the seal was replaced, the yoke put back on, we once again had to count the nut as we threaded it back on.  Also, he would have us put a little gasket sealer on the pinion shaft spline and yoke spline when putting the yoke back in place.  The sealer was used to keep oil from coming out of the shaft/yoke.

Nuts huh?  ::)   But I never had a come back. :)


How about stuffing in a 252 V-6?  


Not owning a welder, Dad and I would "PACK" steel wool into the hole and then fill the hole in with solder and then grind the filled hole flush.    This worked very well.


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