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Messages - athawk11

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I believe you can get the stripped bolt out of the crankshaft by removing the oil pan and the rear main bearing cap...then rotate the crank until the stripped bolt is toward the bottom of the crank/engine block.

This is only speculation.

The focus from WO at the time was to sell these to the farming community.  At the time, the CJ2A was in competition with a small Ford tractor.  Money was very tight following WWII.  A small capable tractor/2A would have had a market in most parts of the country.  So, if it’s harder to find these in the Southeast, I would assume 2 things.

*There were probably good WO dealerships and not-so-good WO dealerships.  If you had a few dynamic sales guys (that could sell a bag of potatoes to a potato farmer) up in Pennsylvania, then you would probably see a larger supply of old Jeeps in that particular region.

*Rust.  I've seen the underside of 10-year-old cars from the southeast and I am shocked at how quickly things deteriorate when compared to the same car that spent its time in the climate we have in the plains of Colorado.  When buying a car in Colorado, they used to offer "undercoating" as an "extra".  The savoy Colorado purchaser considered this a scam/unneeded up-charge.  Knowing what I know now, I would insist on undercoating if I lived in the Southeast and Northeast regions.
Bottom line for me;  70+ years is a long time for a vehicle that was coated with inferior paint (compared to modern coatings).  If there were lots of Willys Jeeps in that region, they just couldn't hold up to the elements.  And economically, there may not have been lots of spare cash to maintain the little Jeep, so they simply rusted away.

BODY and trim / Re: Rear View Mirror
« on: July 02, 2020, 10:04:30 AM »
Windshield mount?  If so, Pete Debella has the best reproduction windshield mounted rear view mirror that I have found.   It's a new product for Pete.  Scroll down this page to nearly the bottom and you will see a 2A and 3A version (different bracket style) that has the original looking mirror head.  They are pricey at $50.00 but I haven't found anyone else come close to matching the original accessory add-on from the 1940s and 1950s.

I currently have the squared off version he offers (just down below the versions on this same page).  They are decent, but if you want an original look, the $50.00 version is worth the price.

EDIT:  Forgot to mention that the nicer version uses tinted glass.  The square version does not.  I get blinded by drivers behind me with the square version.  I have to point it down when driving at night.

Your CJ-3A Project / Re: Hawk...CJ3A 36662
« on: July 02, 2020, 08:19:00 AM »
Thanks Kirk.  It's been a fun ride. 

From a recent trip...

Hi Chris,
I purchased the same steering wheel for a 3A.  I couldn't get it to seat far enough to install the horn button.  I cleaned up the steering shaft splines with a varied set of mini- files from Harbor Freight.  This helped quite a bit, but I still had to use a block of wood and a mini-sledge hammer to get it on enough to set the button.

Electrical Systems / Re: Amp gauge insulators
« on: June 19, 2020, 08:22:20 AM »
I used an old style Bic Pen.  I cut a couple insulator sized pieces from the outer shell of the pen. 8 years later, I'm still trouble-free.

That part looks like part of the latch system for the CJ2A windshield.

Gearboxes and axles / Re: Top Bolt on Bell Housing (Drivers Side)
« on: June 13, 2020, 09:50:08 PM »
The welded links a good idea. Then, I of I am thinking of this right, you can just put nuts on from the bell housing side.
I haven't tried this yet, but I think we would have the same problem we have now with the individual bolts.  The linked bolts would be too long to fit if assembled pointing rearward.

Website Feedback / Re: 3A page is not secure
« on: June 13, 2020, 09:38:17 PM »
I see "https" ... and do not see. "Not secure".

I did not say to click on the link in my post.  I gave instructions to "copy" the link then paste it  in your browser.  This should give you a secure connection. 

Then make a desktop link once the site is open. 

Gearboxes and axles / Re: Top Bolt on Bell Housing (Drivers Side)
« on: June 13, 2020, 03:31:47 PM »
I haven't had an engine out in a couple years, but the next time I do, I plan to weld a link between both top bolts.

This would allow you to install the linked bolts and a nut from the passenger side. Now, you only have to worry about the nut on the driver side.  No need to figure out how to hold the driver side bolt.  The welded link is taking care of that for you.

Your CJ-3A Project / Re: $2000 project?
« on: June 12, 2020, 02:59:04 PM »
I’ll be getting it Sunday. $2100 and it’s being delivered to me from 5 hrs away. Can’t beat that. I’ll get you’ll some pics then. And you should be see more of me after that.

Wow.  $100.00 for a 10 hour round trip delivered.  The seller is motivated.

Be sure to show us what you got.  Good luck.

Engine compartment / Re: Firewall Clearance
« on: June 11, 2020, 11:09:59 PM »
I believe Rommel is doing work with electric vehicles now. 

Here is an interesting thread from the 2A Page that gave many great hope regarding reproduction tubs.  Rommel moved on.  The improvements stopped, then came the era of regression. I believe we are still in that era.

Engine compartment / Re: Firewall Clearance
« on: June 11, 2020, 03:18:11 PM »
I think this is what we've all grown to expect from MD Juan.  The Willys Forums are littered with threads talking about the poor workmanship and the numerous modifications required to make the tub work.  This is why I've always fixed the original tubs.  There was a time of great hope in 2013 when Rommel Juan was in a leadership role at MD Juan.  Many strides were made to improve the products.  Then he left...and all efforts to improve the products left with him.

The problem with sending the tub back is that there is a high probability that the next tub will have the same issues. It's a no win situation.  This is the problem we face when the consumer has only one choice from which to purchase a product.  MD Juan seems content to offer sub par products.  And why not...they've cornered the market.   

Engine compartment / Re: Firewall Clearance
« on: June 10, 2020, 07:04:44 PM »
I measured 3 different Jeeps and got 3 different measurements.  I measured just below the head...straight back to the firewall.  1", 1-1/4", and 1-3/8".

My next measurement is not scientific.  I reached down with my finger and estimated the distance between the linkage and the firewall...just before the firewall ""opens up" to allow for more bell housing clearance.

CJ3A--My 1" reading from above is matched with 1/8" clearance between the linkage and the firewall.
CJ2A--My 1-1/4" reading from above is matched with 3/8" clearance between the linkage and the firewall.
CJ3A--My 1-3/8" reading from above is matched with 1/2" clearance between the linkage and the firewall.

The only Jeep where the tub has never been removed is the CJ2A.

What all this means, I can't really say.  I can suggest that the CJ2A measurement is more likely to be the original target, but you can still make it work with just 1" between the engine and the firewall.  If you currently have 3/4", I would try shifting the tub an additional 1/4" to the rear and see if you can get all the attaching points to work -vs- cutting the firewall.  If the overhang at the rear bothers you, you could remove the bumper and add some spacers.  I don't believe you'll have too much to worry about with other items that penetrate the tub ( gear shifters, brake/clutch pedals, etc. )

Your CJ-3A Project / Re: $2000 project?
« on: June 10, 2020, 04:30:56 PM »
I agree with Oldtime!  From what I can see, a $2,000.00 runner with a clean title is a good price.

Some additional photos could show it to be a absolute steal.


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