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Topics - MikeB

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Website Feedback / Missing threads
« on: August 26, 2019, 09:14:08 PM »
It may be me or Im just getting older but a few threads seam to have gone missing in the migration of forums. I cant find anything from the modified cj3a section of the old forum. Looks like basically all my post and build thread are gone?

Dumb question but it's got to be asked.

Which way do you mount shocks?� Cylinder down, boot on top, like the first picture. or cylinder up, boot on the bottom, like the second picture.

I've always mounted them cylinder down, boot on top, to protect the rod from debris, but have recently been told I'm wrong. I don't like being wrong.� :D

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Gas Cap ID
« on: December 27, 2016, 04:04:04 PM »
I have a none standard gas cap on my 52' M38, needs either the seal replacing or replacing out right, only catch I can't find one that fits. It's not the standard M38 cap, I think it might be from a CJ3 or later CJ can anyone help narrow down where the cap came from.

It's not vented, has two prongs and the filler neck is 2 5/8 wide with a 1 5/8 opening.

I've attached a few pictures if that helps.

Thanks Mike

wanted some rear extended shock mounts to fit longer travel shocks to my M38. I found you can use the M.O.R.E YJ shock mounts with a little modification to fit the M38, should work for the 3a also.

They attached to the stock mounts, you will need to remove the pin on the YJ mount and drill into the frame and use a 3/8� spacer at the stock mounting point. It gives you 4� of extra shock travel and for me it reduced the shock mounting angle.

Hope someone finds this useful.  :)

EVERYTHING ELSE, General tips / Vin Plate repair?
« on: January 21, 2017, 01:30:04 PM »
Ok, so the dash mounted Vin/serial number plate, on my 65 year old M38 is showing the signs of being 65 years old and in a location that gets a lot of traffic.

The serial number is becoming faint, so faint it is becoming hard to read. 

This will be an issue if I ever sell the Willys or get an inspection. No readable vin, no registration, no drivable Willys!

So is there any place that can re-stamp the serial plaque and it be legal. I would hate to loose all the hard work put into this jeep, as getting a new title where I live is next to impossible.

EVERYTHING ELSE, General tips / White Christmas
« on: December 26, 2018, 05:21:48 PM »
A day belated, but I hope everyone had a joyous holiday season.

EVERYTHING ELSE, General tips / Trailer fender question?
« on: May 06, 2018, 11:15:06 AM »
I have an odd question, my M38 has wide tires that stick out from the body, which leads to the local county Mounties wanting to keep handing out tickets.

I don�t want to do a permanent fender flare I was thinking something removable, but keeping with the lines of the Jeep.

So I was wondering do the fenders from a bantam trailer have the same radius and opening size as the rear fender opening of the M38/Cj3?�

Any one got a trailer fender they can check the fit with? It would be much appreciated as the tire coverage is the last thing to deal with to make the Willys street leagal again.

The bantan t-3 type trailer with the round fender, not the flat style ones.  :D

EVERYTHING ELSE, General tips / Winch plate and winch wiring.
« on: December 29, 2017, 11:02:28 AM »
My M38 is not stock, so a period correct solutiona are not needed but I do want something that does not look out of place.

Firstly, I am Mounting a 8500 lbs winch, but can not find a mounting plate specifically for a CJ3 or M38.

What have some of you done in the past to mount your witches? Made your own mounting plate, modified something from a different era?

Second question, I relocated the battery to the rear, running 2/0 gauge cable from the battery pos + to a bus bar on the fire wall, and grounded the battery neg - to the chassis with 4 gauge.

Should I be ok running the winch pos + to the firewall bus bar with 4 gauge and the winch neg -  to the chassis also with 4 gauge or should I run both back and connect direct to the battery, if I do that I would need to run 1 or 0 gauge to counter amp drop.

Third question, should I use a inline fuse or circuit breaker on the winch pos + cable? Would need to be around 300 amps if I do. I do have a battery isolation switch on the battery neg - cable.

EVERYTHING ELSE, General tips / Tail light spray tint removal?
« on: February 11, 2017, 11:55:11 AM »
While not a Willys specific question, it could be of use to others, and with the vast wealth of knowledge on this forum, someone has probably come across this before.

The DPO of my new to me towing rig, used a spray on tint on the tail lights. I hate it and want to remove it. New lights are $350 each.

I've read brake cleaner, works, same with brake fluid, but my experience with both is it will cause hazing and cracking over time on the clear plastic of the lenses.

Anyone have any experience in this area? 

Gearboxes and axles / D44 rear axle binding up?
« on: November 04, 2018, 02:10:58 PM »
One problem solved now a new one pops up. D44 single piece axles.

Got both the rear axles out, old bearings off and new timkin bearings and seals pressed on, both axles installed nicely with new 1/4� retainer plates.

Jeep is on axle stands, both t-case and gear box are in neutral. Both axles spin freely without brake drums or wheels on, both axles spin freely with both brake drums on, both axles spin freely with both brake drums on and only the passenger side wheel on. Neither axle spins freely with the drivers side wheel on.

If i back the wheel nuts off off on the drivers side both axles will spin, but they bind up when the drivers side (only the drivers side) wheel is tightened.

Best set I can figure is the drivers side axle is now sitting about 1/8� inwards from the previous bearing set, and the brake drum is binding either against the brake cover plate, or the outer lip of the brake shoes are binding against the drum face.

no idea how to fix this other than a spacer between the axle flange and the inside of the brake drum. Not sure if that�s the safest route.

Anyone ever have have to deal with something like this before?

BODY and trim / Need a measurment please.
« on: February 13, 2019, 03:12:07 PM »
Trying to figure out if the previous owner of my M38 modified the rear wheel arches.

Can some one do a quick measurement so i can compere what stock is vs what I have?

This is assuming the M38 had the same rear wheel arch radius to a CJ3!

Looking for length (A) and height (B)

My M38 has a length(A) of 36 and height (B) of 11.25 which if you do the fancy math using the cord and height of a arc segment to find the radius, means my wheel well has a 20" radius
I keep getting told it should have a 16" radius?

BODY and trim / Hole identifying M38
« on: February 25, 2018, 05:20:32 PM »
Cleaning up the body I found a pair of 1 1/8� diameter holes in the rear fender, just rear of the center of the axle, there is one hole per side, can�t figure out what they would be used for. I cleaned out the holes and there was OD paint in them, they look like they have been punched not drilled.

Jeep is a 52 M38

BODY and trim / Where to get bestop parts?
« on: February 26, 2017, 03:26:41 PM »
Been searching all weekend, with no luck. Im looking for parts for my Bestop Tiger top for my M38.

The top is complete and in fantastic shape for being made in 1996. But between 3 years in storage and 2 moves i seam to have lost the Left and Right vertical retainer mounts, part# 229.24 and 229.25

anyone where i can buy parts for bestop tops?

BODY and trim / Seat modification
« on: August 25, 2017, 10:31:54 AM »
I didn't have stock seats in my M38 when I brought it, so I put in some smittybilt CJ5 low back seats, they look great and are comfortable.


I'm 6' 4". The seats have a 5" thick foam seat bottom, which puts my head above the windshield frame.

I've lowered the seats as far as I can, the only way for me to drive the jeep is with the windshield down as I can't see otherwise. And my head touches the roll bar, not a safe way to drive.

Other than getting thinner seats, I was thinking I could remove 2 - 3" of foam from the seat pan. Before I send them off to a upholstery stry shop, has anyone done this?

Will removing the foam work?� Can I do it myself?� Is there a write up somewhere on how to do it?

So my M38 came with Frankenstein seats, Toyota seats welded to parts of the stock seats. Not a safe or pretty combination.

I want to replace the seats, is there a decent ie: comfortable aftermarket seat that will fit in a 3a/m38 without any major mods?

What seats are you guys running? I'm 6'5" so a high back seat would be preferable, one of the reasons I'm shying away from a stock set-up.

Did a search and could find nothing, but I might have done the forum search wrong so if this question has been asked and answered before, my apologies but could you point a guy in the right direction? ;)

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