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Topics - stony

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When I tore my engine (early 49) down I noticed that it was painted red in the crankcase and the valve galley.  Was this done at the factory?  The engine was rebuilt in the 60s, but it does not seem likely that they would have painted it during a rebuild.  The discussion  came up on a Facebook page.

As youall know by now I never do anything the easy way.  I needed some turn signals for my 3A, rears, no problem, I needed new taillights anyway, converting the front parking lights was another thing.  I wanted to keep the original sockets, and single filament bulbs.  Luckily my Jeep came with a Signal-stat 800 Sigflare switch.  A little research turned up a wiring diagram that showed that it was designed to convert a single filament parking light to signal light.  It was in poor shape, had to polish up all of the contacts and replace the indicator bulb socket and lens.  Then it was just a matter of choosing bulbs and a flasher.  Rear was easy, 6V dual filament incandescent were just fine.  For the fronts I took the idea from squidtone and grafted some Blazer 534AK6 LEDs onto a couple of #51 bases (you dont need to do that as they are available on the internet).  For a flasher I went with a ELF33-6 LED unit.  Worked perfectly.  Now I not only have front signal/parking lights I have 4 way flashers too!  The Signalstat 800s are usually available on eBay.  Fun project!

There seems to be something a little strange with my hood block spacing.  I KNOW the blocks are in the original spot because the hood has original paint.  I had read that the early 3As had asymmetrical hood blocks like the 2As, but my very early (49, #1159) has symmetrical blocks.  I have also read that the distance from the center seam is 13, but mine are 9 7/8 from the seam to the edge of the block.  It might be kind of interesting to see what measurements you folks come up with.

Hey folks, time for another project.� I have noticed on this and a couple of other forums that there seems to be a need for the windshield vent handle ratchet stops, and they do not seem to be readily available.� Mine is in pretty good shape but I can see where it could be easily broken and lost.� �Making one seemed like an interesting challenge, so here goes.� This is not a how to article, because in order to write one you should actually know how to.�..� This is just how I am tackling the project.� I was going to wait until I had actually made one, but I thought it might be more fun to follow along.� So this is what I am going to try to duplicate.

So, I ordered a oil filter from Kaiser  Willys that was supposed to fit a 3A.  The filter was OK, the right height, but the gasket that came with it was too small, about 4 1/4� and I needed one that was about 4 5/8�.  Seems that up to engine #40352 Willys used a Purolater canister (A-1230) and after that changed to a smaller diameter Purolater or Fram.  It looks like the canister is the same as the Military Junior, with the 4 piece straps spaced close together.  The only marking on the cover is P713.  According to Bob W�s book that would make it about October 1949 for the change.  What do you think Bob?  Here is a photo, yeah it is supposed to be black but I liked the orange ;).

Hey boys and girl, time for a new what the heck is he thinking project.  So it is about time to get my 3A on the road, which means an engine rebuild.  Problem is the engine froze and cracked about 35 years ago and I figure it is about time to get it fixed.  Have done a bunch of research and it looks Like I have three options.  #1:  J B Weld and crossed fingers.  Could vee out the crack drill the ends and put on a fiberglass reinforced patch.  Cheapest and easiest but it is a good sized crack and the patch could fail at the worst possible time (anytime I am driving it).  #2:  super metal filled epoxy, either Devcon titanium or Belzona 1111.  Cost about $200 for 500 gram (1 lb) plus cloth for reinforcing.  This would be a good permanent fix but kinda ugly.  #3:  Lock-n-Stitch metal pins.  I picked this one because I have total confidence in it and once painted should be invisable.  I also liked the technical challenge.  Unfortunately by far the most expensive, about $460 for the pins and special tools needed.  The kit arrived today, so I hope to start on it tomorrow.  About 12 inches total of crack, so will take about 60 CA pins.  Photos coming.

So boys and girls, another first time ever project.  When I pulled my gas tank, it was an uh oh moment.  The bottom and sides had about a pound of JB Weld smeared on it.  Most was flaking off.  When I peeled it off and looked inside, it was like a stary stary night.  The whole bottom was pitted and rotted through.  At first thought it was time for a new tank.  Then hmmm, it is just a flat piece of sheet steel, let�s see if I can replace it.  Just happened to have some steel the right thickness that I got about 25 years ago that was not rusted at all (miracle), so here goes.  This is what I started with.

OK so here is where I am on my �49 project�.  Found out today that both my exhaust and intake manifolds are cracked and need to be replaced.  I am thinking that rather than using a L134 exhaust I would use a F134 exaust, without the heat riser, which was shot on mine anyway.  I am not planning to do any cold weather driving, and I understand that the F exhaust flows better anyway.  I see that there could be a support problem, but I am thinking I could make a brace to support the underside of the intake.  Anyway what do you all think?

You all know that I have been fooling around with my windshield vent, mainly because the windshield is the only part I have home to work on.  Seems that my vent handle spring is showing its age, so I gave Walck's a call to see if a new one was available.  Guess what?  The spring is not sold separately from the handle, so back to the work bench!  Had made a couple of springs in the past, so didn't seem like too hard of a project, and believe it or not it was pretty easy.  First off was the wire for the spring.  Music wire would probably be best but didn't have any the right size, then it hit me...bicycle spoke!  Had a bunch from my wheel building days, stainless steel, springy and free.  Perfect!  So this is what I did:  Cut and sharpened the end of a spoke.  Put it in the vice and put a 90 bend about 1/4 inch long.  Drilled a 1/2 inch hole in a block of wood and stuck the drill bit in the hole for a mandrel.  Put the block in a vice.  Drove the pointed end of the spoke into the block about 1 inch from the mandrel.  Grip the end of the spoke (used vice grips), and keeping strong tension by pulling toward you take 2 1/2 turns around the mandrill in the counterclockwise direction.  With the Dremel tool cut the short (nailed) leg to 1/2 inch.  Removed the spring and test fit it to the handle.  Used needle nose to put bend in the wire and cut off excess.  In my case it was about 1 inch before the bend.  Put er together and it seems to work fine.   

I am getting ready to start serious work on my engine, however it has a freeze crack in the block wall.  Yeah, but I was young and dumb.  Anyway by now you probably know I like to do stuff myself, so am going to try Lock-N-Stitch pins for the repair.  So here is my question, how thick is the casting on the side of the block?  The metal is slightly displaced on the top of the crack (a few thousandths), so would like to grind it flat before drilling and pinning.  Any of you guys tried this?  Have another block if I really screw the pooch on this one so going to give it a try.

Getting ready to try to get the "49" on the road this summer.  Extensive engine work needed.  Trying to get a little more HP.  I may be mistaken but it appears that the Supersonic head is basically a shaved standard head.  Two Q's:  approximately what is the compression ratio of the Supersonic, and how much would need to be shaved from a stock head to be equivalent.  Am assuming valve clearance will not be a problem.  Thanks!

Well this is the first step in my CJ3A preservation project.  Repairing the temperature gauge.  My late brother in law was apparently trying to "fix" my jeep and in what I think was an attempt to remove the engine unscrewed the temperature gauge and twisted off the capillarity tube.  This thread will document my attempt to get it working again.  Plans are fairly simple:  Remove and clean up the brass reservoir, reattach the capillary tube, refill it with ether and reseal it, cross my fingers and hope it is reasonably accurate.  Cosmetically will just repaint the rim around the gauge to keep it from rusting any more.

OK here is what I am starting with.  Fairly decent looking gauge, but the capillary is twisted off at the top of the reservoir, and you can see that it is held solidly in the head fitting by rust.  Going to have to clean out the rust and remove the brass reservoir.   

Getting my CJ3A ready to roll, and my old manual went to my nephew along with the 56 CJ5, so what repair manuals would you guys recommend?  Thanks!

Chassis, brakes and suspension. / What is this wheel?
« on: November 21, 2018, 04:18:42 PM »
This is the spare wheel on my CJ3A, it is 16�.  Any idea what it was on originally?  Military?  It has 6.00-16 net on it but it may or may not be an original tire, no idea.  Just curious.

BODY and trim / Building CJ3A seat springs
« on: May 23, 2019, 09:10:32 PM »
OK, I should know better but have decided to build a set of 3A seat springs, since no one sells them.  I have enough of my rusty old spring for a pattern.  First thing:  order the parts and tools.  Came today.  I continue this as it moves along.

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