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Topics - aboyandhisdog

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Engine compartment / Pre oiling engine
« on: November 09, 2019, 06:20:52 PM »
How do you guys pre oil your engines before start up of a newly rebuilt engine?  I don't have a it necessary?  Thank you.

Engine compartment / head stud removal
« on: October 19, 2019, 08:59:48 PM »
I'm having a heck of a time getting my old head studs out.  Seems the PO used the red Loctite.  I've been soaking them in Kroil, and using a "stud extraction" tool and can't seem to budge them.  Just painted the block so am reluctant to use heat on the block, and read somewhere that heating the stud is not the right way to go.  Any ideas?  Thank you!

Rambling, Malarky, Rants, Etc... / What the heck is this?
« on: August 31, 2019, 11:23:36 AM »

PAST EVENTS: / 2015 Black Hills Run - photos and videos
« on: June 26, 2015, 11:12:41 AM »
The 2A page has this thread going and I wanted to share it here.
The videos and pics begin near the bottom of this page (page 13).

We had a great time and not done yet!

PAST EVENTS: / Any events in Colorado?
« on: June 09, 2011, 06:59:01 PM »
Does anybody know if there are any Willys events  in or near Colorado?

Jeep is running great but occasionally the fuel pressure will fall off from a steady 3.25psi to 0, and, of course the engine dies.  I have replaced the first AC pump with a known good Carter pump, but still have the issue.  It will cut out under hard load and also under no load like when coasting to a stop and then putting the clutch in.  95% of the time, no problem. 

I've checked all of the fittings in the lines both before and after the pump and they are all tight.  I have an in-line pressure gauge just before the filter just before the carb. which is how I know the pressure is at fault.

So my question is:  Is there anything besides a defective pump that could cause the pressure to fall off intermittently like this?  I wouldn't think I could have two defective pumps in a row.  Thinking now that neither pump is defective.

Thanks a lot!

I'm just curious about this and need some knowledge...

On my older engine the cold oil pressure would start out at about 55psi at 2000 rpm's and would drop to 45 psi after the engine and oil were thoroughly warmed up.  That always made sense to me thinking that hot oil would probably not hold pressure as well as cold oil as it would be thicker when cold.

On my new engine, the cold pressure is 35 psi and rises to 45 after the oil is hot.  Exact opposite from what I have become to expect.

Do you guys have an explanation for this?  It leaves me wondering what else might influence a drop or rise in oil pressure.  Inquiring minds need to know!  Thanks a lot!

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Strange noise
« on: November 18, 2011, 06:50:50 PM »
I've had a noise for a while now that I can't for the life of me determine what it is all about.  It sounds like small rocks in a coffee can or like a metal cap on top of a semi tractor exhaust pipe - those "flappers" that keep the rain out.  Anyway, it's that kind of a metal flapping against metal sound.  It ONLY happens when the accelerator pedal is being "feathered" between accelerating and decelerating.  In other words, foot on the gas - no noise, or, foot off the gas - no noise.  In between - rattle, rattle, rattle.   At first I thought I had a loose heat riser valve that was vibrating but have ruled that out.  I've taken it apart and it is very solid as it should be.  I also wired it in both the open and closed position, and no difference - noise still there.  Also, the jeep needs to be driving - no noise if I'm sitting still and just running the engine.  A mechanic friend of mine threw out the idea of the oil slinger making the noise but, if it was the oil slinger wouldn't it do it all the time?  And, can the oil slinger really be loose like that and what would it be hitting if anything?  That is probably a red herring, but I am at a loss.  Almost everything is new or rebuilt and my 3A runs great.  Strong oil pressure, and all systems normal!  Any ideas???

Can anybody tell me the proper length of an OE style clutch rod?  The on-center length would be most helpful.  Thanks.

Just for grins, I bought a Wix oil analysis kit     to see what would come back as far as my oil is concerned.  I changed the oil last week and mailed the sample off to their lab in Portland, Or.  I just got the email results tonight. 

My sample had 3000 miles on it.  The only parameter that seems to be out of their spec. is the lead and copper values.  My engine oil seems to be high in lead (71 ppm) and copper (67 ppm).  They don't say what is "normal" so I don't have much of a reference to go by.  Judging from my other vehicles, <10 ppm would be normal for both minerals.  At least on a modern engine, that is. 

In their notes they say that the high copper value is due to leaching from the oil cooler and of no concern.  But as we know, we don't have oil coolers, so the copper must be coming from somewhere else. 

They mentioned that the lead would indicate bearing wear. 

So, my questions to my Willys brethren...What in the 134L engine is copper, and what is lead?  Maybe there is lead solder?  What bearings have lead in them?  What in the engine is copper?  At first I thought the culprit may be the radiator lead solder and copper, but they did say there was no water or antifreeze in the oil.

Probably nothing I can do about these wear parts, but I am curious about just what might be wearing abnormally.  Granted, "abnormal" for a modern engine may be "normal" for the Go Devil!  Thanks for your input.

I'm replacing my old cracked engine, transmission and TC mounts.  Seems like it would be pretty straightforward, but anything in particular I should know before launch?  Assuming I just support things on a floor jack and only raise enough to get the mounts in and out...anything else?  Thank you!

Also, how much to tighten up?  Couldn't find torque spec in the service manual.  Maybe just crank down???

My 3A tracks nice and straight down the road at cruising speeds, but when I put it in 4WD high and cruise, I get a very slight pull to the right.  Anyone else experience this?  Maybe something to do with the short drive shaft on the right???  I'm stumped.

It's been a while since I serviced my air filter, but I have always wondered how, exactly, do these things work?  I have the "FGA Oil Washed Air Cleaner" maintenance sheet, but it doesn't go into just how it works.  It talks about how it "condenses oil from the airstream" but I am trying to understand just what  that means.  Does anyone know?  Gunslinger...?

A couple of the guys who have driven through water recently have commented about having to drain water out of the TC and differentials after the trip.� Does water really get in there and, if so, how?� How deep does it need to be?

Hi guys, been a while.� I have a crack in the "rear cap" - that's the housing where the speedo gear is and the E. brake lever attaches between the TC and the E brake.� (I never knew what it was called 'til now).� Anyway, my question is:� Is this case cast iron or steel?� Can it be welded or would I be better off just finding a new one?� The case is split next to the post that holds the E brake lever so there will be some strains on it when the brake is on.
Thank you!

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