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Topics - aboyandhisdog

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Website Feedback / 3A page is not secure
« on: May 29, 2020, 10:19:57 AM »
Now I'm no computer genius, but after having some issues with my computer the last few weeks, the computer guy impressed upon me the importance of only visiting "secure sites".  They are identified by the little padlock at the left of the address bar or "https" as a prefix to the web page address that I am on. 

We discovered that my old friend the "CJ3A page" that stays open in a tab on my browser is not a secure site.  It even says "not secure" to the left in the address bar.  All the other sites I visit are secure sites including the CJ2A page. 

So my question to the 3A Admin....why isn't this website secured?  I would be willing to pony up a contribution if that is what is holding us back in doing this.  Thank you!

EVERYTHING ELSE, General tips / shift lever boot ideas?
« on: April 21, 2020, 10:29:19 PM »
I have the typical 3A with an overdrive.  I am wondering if any of you have a good solution for a boot that incorporates the dual lever of the TC and the overdrive together?  I find the flimsy dual lever boot with the crappy OD boot together makes for a kind of lame situation.  They are both thin rubber of poor quality, and the way they overlay each other, well, it just seems like there must be a better solution.  Any thoughts on how to improve this?  Thank you!

Engine compartment / Rear main seal questions
« on: March 31, 2020, 09:09:59 PM »
I need to R&R my rear main with the engine in the jeep.  The universal manual says no problem, but doesn't really go into how to do it.  I have watched what You Tube videos I can find, but I have not found any where it is done with the engine in the jeep.  Metalshaper has good videos but the engine is always on a stand. questions:  How hard a job is this for a "shade tree mechanic" at best?  Can I do it using just ramps or no ramps at all?  Does anybody know if there is a good video, manual, or thread written up about just how to do this?  And, last but not least...what seal do you all like?  I have read that the Best brand rear main seals are no good, the Fel-Pro seals are no good, and the rope seals are sometimes good.  Most of the opinions are from Metalshaper, and I see where he is coming from, but am a bit confused as to what options are out there given that he seems to hate everything. 

Any thoughts on this?

Thank you!

Need to buy some lube and wondering the capacity of the knuckles.  Anybody know for sure?  Searched the manual and I can't find the answer.  Thank you.

Engine compartment / No oil pressure
« on: March 19, 2020, 02:48:15 PM »
I just installed a newly rebuilt L134.  It's all hooked up and ready to go.  I put about a quart into the oil gauge port in the block with an old transfer pump I had but am unable to fill my spin-on bypass filter.  Filled crankcase also. 

Cranked engine and it fired right up.  But about 20 sec. in, I noticed no oil pressure on the gauge.  Shut her down right away.  Pulled the brand new pump out and packed it full of assembly lube.  Removed the plugs so I could spin the engine with the starter only.  Cranked several times for 20 sec. each and still no pressure. 

I decided to put my old, (known to be good) pump on.  Filled it with assy. lube also.  Cranked starter again and still no movement on the pressure gauge.  I also verified that there is no flow to the oil filter.

Feeling very defeated right now.  But I have a few questions: 

1)  How long should it take oil pressure to build in a "new" engine? 
2)  Would my filter need to fill before pressure comes up?  (I doubt this as we do filter changes all the time without issues)
3)  How much turning of the engine with the starter is acceptable if there is a chance the oil isn't flowing?
4)  What am I over-looking?  What should I try now?

This engine is working my last nerve.  I've had to heli-coil 8 head studs that have failed after working fine previously.  Five ruined head gaskets!  The oil pump had been indexed wrong so I had to correct that.  A number of other things.  But it is this oil pressure situation that has me confounded the most.

As ever, thank you for your insights!

Engine compartment / Head Gasket spray?
« on: March 14, 2020, 03:55:31 PM »
I'm putting a new Fel-Pro 7285B head gasket on.  That is the one that is metal on the block side and fiber on the head side.  I know there have been some alignment issues in the past where the gasket runs between the cylinders, but it looks like Fel-Pro has ironed those out as the alignment and coverage look to be perfect. 

I plan to use the copper coat and want to know if it is wise to spray the fiber side with copper, or just the metal side?

Thank you.

Engine compartment / Pre oiling engine
« on: November 09, 2019, 06:20:52 PM »
How do you guys pre oil your engines before start up of a newly rebuilt engine?  I don't have a it necessary?  Thank you.

Engine compartment / head stud removal
« on: October 19, 2019, 08:59:48 PM »
I'm having a heck of a time getting my old head studs out.  Seems the PO used the red Loctite.  I've been soaking them in Kroil, and using a "stud extraction" tool and can't seem to budge them.  Just painted the block so am reluctant to use heat on the block, and read somewhere that heating the stud is not the right way to go.  Any ideas?  Thank you!

Rambling, Malarky, Rants, Etc... / What the heck is this?
« on: August 31, 2019, 11:23:36 AM »

PAST EVENTS: / 2015 Black Hills Run - photos and videos
« on: June 26, 2015, 11:12:41 AM »
The 2A page has this thread going and I wanted to share it here.
The videos and pics begin near the bottom of this page (page 13).

We had a great time and not done yet!

PAST EVENTS: / Any events in Colorado?
« on: June 09, 2011, 06:59:01 PM »
Does anybody know if there are any Willys events  in or near Colorado?

Jeep is running great but occasionally the fuel pressure will fall off from a steady 3.25psi to 0, and, of course the engine dies.  I have replaced the first AC pump with a known good Carter pump, but still have the issue.  It will cut out under hard load and also under no load like when coasting to a stop and then putting the clutch in.  95% of the time, no problem. 

I've checked all of the fittings in the lines both before and after the pump and they are all tight.  I have an in-line pressure gauge just before the filter just before the carb. which is how I know the pressure is at fault.

So my question is:  Is there anything besides a defective pump that could cause the pressure to fall off intermittently like this?  I wouldn't think I could have two defective pumps in a row.  Thinking now that neither pump is defective.

Thanks a lot!

I'm just curious about this and need some knowledge...

On my older engine the cold oil pressure would start out at about 55psi at 2000 rpm's and would drop to 45 psi after the engine and oil were thoroughly warmed up.  That always made sense to me thinking that hot oil would probably not hold pressure as well as cold oil as it would be thicker when cold.

On my new engine, the cold pressure is 35 psi and rises to 45 after the oil is hot.  Exact opposite from what I have become to expect.

Do you guys have an explanation for this?  It leaves me wondering what else might influence a drop or rise in oil pressure.  Inquiring minds need to know!  Thanks a lot!

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Strange noise
« on: November 18, 2011, 06:50:50 PM »
I've had a noise for a while now that I can't for the life of me determine what it is all about.  It sounds like small rocks in a coffee can or like a metal cap on top of a semi tractor exhaust pipe - those "flappers" that keep the rain out.  Anyway, it's that kind of a metal flapping against metal sound.  It ONLY happens when the accelerator pedal is being "feathered" between accelerating and decelerating.  In other words, foot on the gas - no noise, or, foot off the gas - no noise.  In between - rattle, rattle, rattle.   At first I thought I had a loose heat riser valve that was vibrating but have ruled that out.  I've taken it apart and it is very solid as it should be.  I also wired it in both the open and closed position, and no difference - noise still there.  Also, the jeep needs to be driving - no noise if I'm sitting still and just running the engine.  A mechanic friend of mine threw out the idea of the oil slinger making the noise but, if it was the oil slinger wouldn't it do it all the time?  And, can the oil slinger really be loose like that and what would it be hitting if anything?  That is probably a red herring, but I am at a loss.  Almost everything is new or rebuilt and my 3A runs great.  Strong oil pressure, and all systems normal!  Any ideas???

Can anybody tell me the proper length of an OE style clutch rod?  The on-center length would be most helpful.  Thanks.

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