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Topics - Tumbleweed

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1
I tried calling Herm the ODG but his telephone mailbox is full. I need to get my OD rebuilt - is he still a good source?

Thanks,

Tumbleweed

2
"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Permatex #2
« on: October 16, 2015, 11:06:56 AM »
I do not want to use any RTV in the transmission or transfer case so my question is:

Permatex #2 the best for sealing bolts and mating gasket surfaces?

Next year I don't want tho be the guy at FCT that has the biggest puddle under the Jeep! ;D

Pulling the transmission and transfer case is not fun either. Is there any way to test for leaks prior to installing back into the Jeep once I have put new seals in?


3
The vacuum wiper motor can mount with the hump up or down, but I wonder what is correct? :-/ I have done a search but it looks like half are mounted with the hump up and the other half with the hump down.

Could be whatever you want I guess????? Just as long as they work.....


4
I tried to do a search on this subject but had no luck finding helful information.

I am almost done with the painting on my rig and I was wondering what the best way to paint the embossed raised WILLYS. Is masking the best option or sponge roller over a masking plate?

Thanks,

George

5
Okay so I still have this whine in either the tranfer case or transmission (2nd and 3rd gear only). I rebuilt the transmission again with more new parts and I thought that would take care of the problem - my question is this:

Is there a way to run the transmission only, by removing the rear drive gear to the transfer case? My thinking is that this would isolate the problem area to either the transfer case or the transmission. I can not determine where the whine is coming from. 

6
Are there any advantages to using a distributor with vacuum advance vs. no vacuum advance on an L134? I had this distributor left over from my last rebuild on my F Head. If I have to rebuild my old distributor (non vacuum advance) I might just opt for an electronic version. I did this on the F head and have had no problems.

George

7
"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Missing Stud?
« on: October 07, 2014, 10:38:32 AM »
Got my engine back but I think I a missing a stud. Can anyone tell me if I need a short or long stud?

Thanks,

George

8
In the process of putting all the parts back on the engine and I am just a bit confused about the position of the oil pump and distributor. I may be making this harder than it really is but I hope I have it close enough to try and crank the engine over.

From the picture does my oil pump look like it is in the correct position with the slot at about 11:00?

Also the distributor is between 5 and 6 o'clock position.

The timing gears are in correct position and the #1 piston is at TDC.

Thanks,

Tumbleweed.....

9
On the bottom mounted radiator, were there rubber pads to fit between the radiator and frame? I can't remember if I took 2 pads off.

Thanks,

George

10
Replacing the old rear brake drums with new drums and wheel hubs. I have beat and heated the studs to try and get them inserted into the new hubs. Anyone got an easier idea how I can get them inserted easier?

Thanks,

Tumbleweed

11
"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Hood Support
« on: January 31, 2014, 09:58:20 AM »
I thought that somewhere, someone made hat channels for the inside of the hood for support. My hood is in good if not great shape but it does flex a little. I thought that the extra brace on the inside would really stiffen the hood up so when the windshield is down it would not put so much pressure on the top. I will not rule out that even though my hood is in good shape the previous owner may have bent it in and then beat the dent back out. If he did he did a great job of hiding the dent!

Thanks,

George

12
I started to put my new springs on last night and was having one heck of a time with the front springs and the "U" shaped shackle. I had to use a screw driver to pry the loop on the spring open wide enough to get the threaded shackle in the loop end. A little sanding and a little grease helped but when I got to the rear springs the loop was just too tight for the threaded shackle. I know that one end is different and will accept the brass bushing for the pivot bolt.

Any suggestions on reaming out the spring loop to accept the threaded shackle? I thought about running a hone to increase the ID but did not want to proceed until a better idea came across.

Thanks,

George

13
I had a look at the work athawk11 was doing in his axle and I am wondering at what point are the bendix shafts no longer acceptable. When I have all the balls in place the shaft does not fall apart but there does seem to be a considerable amount of play when completely assembled. By that I mean when you try and pull the assembled shaft sections apart.

I have a set of spicer axles shafts that I purchased just in case I have to replace both shafts (long and short).

I believe that I will also have to replace the old spindle bushings and possibly the axle bushing?

Thanks,

George

14
Anyone see any issues with taking the generator off an F134 and using it on L134? I am thinking about putting an alternator on my 53 wagon and using the gen/volt reg. for my 49 CJ3A.

Thanks,

George

15
Is the bottom of the seat for drivers and passenger side made of wood? I took the old seat covers off (I don't think they were original) and there was good foam glued to the back of each seat and the bottom was made of wood. I am thinking they were probably steel springs?????? at one time but I am not sure.

Thanks,

Tumbleweed........@@@@@@
 

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