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Messages - stony

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Well I would just have the flat behind the water pump restamped with the number on the title, and not worry about it.  It is a pre VIN number so no one is going to care.

Dave:  eBay, search “sealed power pistons Willys” and” sealed power bearings Willys”.

Dave:  in the “old days” they would shim the bearings.  In your case it might be worth a try.  I would love to see someone do this (not me LOL).  Seems like you are in the perfect position to try it.  Here is a link:  Good luck!

Gearboxes and axles / Re: Warn hubs
« on: April 24, 2020, 09:21:32 PM »
I have a set, but have never used them, yours are pretty nice, later model hubs just like mine.

EVENT SCHEDULE / Re: 2020 Great Willys Picnic, Show and Swap
« on: April 18, 2020, 01:38:51 PM »
Bob, do you think this will go on as scheduled?

When I tore my engine (early 49) down I noticed that it was painted red in the crankcase and the valve galley.  Was this done at the factory?  The engine was rebuilt in the 60s, but it does not seem likely that they would have painted it during a rebuild.  The discussion  came up on a Facebook page.

Electrical Systems / Re: Starter Problem
« on: April 13, 2020, 01:48:58 AM »
Great, yeah that is an old trick.  We would take our starter solenoids apart and turn the copper washer and copper contact bolt 180° for fresh surfaces.  Love those old school fixes!

Interesting, I have the same four holes (plus some extras) in about the same place, with the same horn with only two holes in the bracket.  Now I have seen photos of early horn brackets (search for images of Willys horn bracket) that had four holes.  So I wonder if the fenders were drilled for the four hole bracket, but then the changed to the two hole like ours and just had two holes left over. 

Electrical Systems / Re: Starter Problem
« on: April 07, 2020, 01:59:43 PM »
Which starter?  The early with the mechanical plunger and the bushing in the bellhousing or the later with the enclosed nose?

Yeah, I have never gotten a definitive answer on warm (not hot) or cold for the retorque.  The studs do expand when warm, but so does the block.  After the first run up to temperature and cool down all of the stress should have been relieved and the the head gasket should have sealed.  I like to do it warm because I think it seals everything better.  Warm or cold it probably does not make much difference, but I do think it is wise to do the retorque.

Electrical Systems / Re: Horn Rebuild?
« on: March 25, 2020, 09:03:56 PM »
What I would do (mostly because I am stubborn) is take that switch apart, then take a set of ignition points,  cut them up, file them down, then clean the surfaces really well and solder (or maybe even weld) them to the old parts.  Might work, might not, just an idea🤔.  Good luck!

What I did:  torque it cold, then run it up to operating temperature, then retoqued warm.  Then after driving a couple of times, checked the torque.  It is my feeling that with a relatively low torque, it couldn’t hurt.  BTW on the first retotque I gained a little tiny bit of a turn on most of the studs, nothing on the later check.  Not saying it was the right thing to do, just what I did.🤔

Yeah, I have the stock switch, so the parking lights go off when the headlights come on.  All that 8th wire on the 800 does is let the parking lights work individually.  I was really surprised to find that it gave me 4 way flashers.  Pretty cool for 50’s technology.

Electrical Systems / Re: starter noise, does the bendix stay engaged ?
« on: March 08, 2020, 04:03:56 PM »
Hey Tow Hook:  Here you go.  That is a “flow through drive” and locks in the extended position until the engine starts.  Looks like it is working the way it should.

As youall know by now I never do anything the easy way.  I needed some turn signals for my 3A, rears, no problem, I needed new taillights anyway, converting the front parking lights was another thing.  I wanted to keep the original sockets, and single filament bulbs.  Luckily my Jeep came with a Signal-stat 800 Sigflare switch.  A little research turned up a wiring diagram that showed that it was designed to convert a single filament parking light to signal light.  It was in poor shape, had to polish up all of the contacts and replace the indicator bulb socket and lens.  Then it was just a matter of choosing bulbs and a flasher.  Rear was easy, 6V dual filament incandescent were just fine.  For the fronts I took the idea from squidtone and grafted some Blazer 534AK6 LEDs onto a couple of #51 bases (you don’t need to do that as they are available on the internet).  For a flasher I went with a ELF33-6 LED unit.  Worked perfectly.  Now I not only have front signal/parking lights I have 4 way flashers too!  The Signalstat 800s are usually available on eBay.  Fun project!

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