Messages

1

Engine compartment / Re: unexpected electric fan problem

« on: April 12, 2020, 06:52:27 PM »

In my research, I discovered that in the 60s and 70s, manufacturers were confronted with of the vapor-lock problem, and relied on a vapor filter which separated the gasses from the liquid fuel. The vapor was then vented it back to the gas tank in a separate line.  Many  vintage car enthusiasts rely on this problem solver today.  Although it is still not a perfect solution.  It only vents gasses at the highest point, the carburetor.  I witnessed gasses at the fuel pump. The expansion of fuel at that point would increase pressure and push fuel into the carburetor and flood it.
Who's idea was it to dilute perfectly good gasoline with an almost inert substance like alcohol.  One year, I had to replace two fuel pumps in two separate jeeps. It had to be from the alcohol eating the seals. This was a common problem when ethanol was first introduced.

2

Engine compartment / Re: unexpected electric fan problem

« on: April 12, 2020, 05:47:09 PM »

Very nice wrapping . Looks  neat and clean. My attempt is not so elegant.

3

Engine compartment / Re: unexpected electric fan problem

« on: April 12, 2020, 11:58:26 AM »

These are great  thoughts that I had not considered. The engine is designed to operate at 180F.  The fan switch is designed  to switch on at 180 F, and turn off at 165F. . Relocating the therm o switch closer to the pump would not help the pump to stay cooler since it is programmed to turn on at 180F, well above the boiling point of alcohol 165F.  Having a manual switch complicated the  driving of the vehicle. I would like to keep it as simple as possible.  Yes, there are fender vents on a 3B.
The engine wall  beside the pump is 199F, and the exhaust is 356F. Rerouting the fuel line away from these  hot areas seems the simplest and most elegant  solution so far. 

Since researching this problem, I have come to realize, I am not alone. Many older vehicles are experiencing the same problem.
I suggest other owners look into the possibility of vapor lock. They may  be experiencing a problem and not realizing it.
 

4

Engine compartment / Re: Rear main seal questions

« on: April 11, 2020, 12:30:49 PM »

As I remember, it was expensive, but that was one job  I didn't want to do twice. 

How is your  clutch?  Whenever I had the main seal go bad in other cars oil ruined the clutch disc.  I have never had on go out on a 134.

5

Engine compartment / Re: unexpected electric fan problem

« on: April 11, 2020, 12:23:32 PM »

Good point. Wiring the fan to the ignition circuit would solve my vapor lock problem, but it would negate my attempt to save fuel when driving. When I realized  that a fan could draw as much as 20 hp from an engine output, I decided to install an electric fan that  turns off when not necessary. 
Excessive fan noise was my other consideration in installing a fan.  I  measured the mechanical fan on a 3a with the decibel meter on my phone, which may not be that accurate, but it would be consistent. It measured 82 dbl at idle while the 3b with electric fan measured 78 dbl,  both pretty comparable. Both are just a little louder then the engine. But I have noticed the mechanical fan is very noise at high RPM, say, climbing a steep hill in low gear. An electric fan runs at a constant speed, so its noise would be the same as at idle. 
Basically, I am pleased with the electric fan. It does not run until it gets up to running temp, and shuts off when driving. When stopping at lights, it is quiet until the engine heats up, which could take several minutes.
I think, I am going to install an electric fuel pump on the firewall, and reroute the fuel line away from the exhaust manifold.  I'll have to remove the mechanical altogether.  I hate to do it, but sometimes we must adapt to new conditions, like the availability of decent fuel.

6

Engine compartment / Re: Rear main seal questions

« on: April 10, 2020, 03:01:54 PM »

My machinist recommended a company in California that makes seals for vintage vehicles.  EGGE machine Co.  url = egge.com ph (562) 945-3419.  The gasket i got ( BST3B71) looked like the new double seal you see in new type wheel bearing seals. They may have a suggestions on how to replace the seal.
I have only got  150 miles on the engine but so far it  works.
Good luck

7

Engine compartment / Re: unexpected electric fan problem

« on: April 10, 2020, 02:48:18 PM »

stevKfl - It worked perfectly.  Temp at the outlet pipe was max temp 180F, temp at the inlet pipe was 165F.   When you come to a stop, there is a time lag until the fan comes on (approx. 1 Min.). During this time, the  engine compartment gets a little hot.

aboyandhisdog- I removed the metal spacer under the fuel pump and replaced them with the stack of gaskets, so that the  pressure world not change.  The gasket insulator did reduce the fuel pump temp to 135F. This slowed the bubbling quite a bit.
On my 3A, I have observed normal peculation of fuel in the pump. But the engine was off, and there was bubbling coming from both the intake and exhaust ports.

8

Engine compartment / unexpected electric fan problem

« on: April 10, 2020, 11:07:45 AM »

In my rebuilding of my 62 3B, I replaced the mechanical fan for an electric one, in an attempt to increase power, and gas mileage.  But I experienced a problem that I had not anticipated, while pulling  away from a stop sign.  While accelerating, I experienced hesitation which felt like fuel starvation.  I  pulled over and increased  pressure on the fuel regulator, which seemed to help, but not completely. Upon arriving home I noticed  bubbling in the fuel pump bowl while the engine was off.  Obvious signs of vapor lock. I measured the temp of the fuel line coming out of the pump @160F.  I  wrapped the exhaust with insulation as well as the gas line itself. That helped but bubbles still persists.  The pump itself measured 165F , the block temp was 199F. So, I installed  5 layers of gasket material to insulate between the pump, and block, which also helped. 
I was wondering if anyone else has problems with ethanol fuel, or is it because of my electric fan not running constantly, cooling the  engine compartment?

9

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: A couple of nit-picking questions

« on: April 09, 2020, 11:46:46 AM »

I recently had this same decision on head gaskets. So, I researched the manufacturer website, https://www.felpro.com/technical/tecblogs/clean-dry.html  for their opinion.  They said ,"Fel-Pro gaskets are designed not to need sealers or adhesives.  Also;  " Use no sealers, adhesives, or other additives to these  gaskets." At  this site, they also said their head gaskets are designed not to require re-torquing.

 I find this hard to believe. I think this technique assumes that both surfaces are in perfectly flat, and clean condition. I also assume that sealant is designed to fill any gap and imperfections. Therefore, I decided to spay the metal side of the gasket with  sealer, and not spray the blue side.  After giving the engine a good run, I  re-torqued the head bolts, where I did notice some bolts did make up more then others.

One thing about the flat-head, the head gaskets are easy to replace, unlike most engines.

Good luck.