Messages

1

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Brake light switch

« on: June 08, 2013, 07:57:40 AM »

Here are a couple thoughts as I went through this as well.  First make sure you have a new copper washer, secondly make sure that switch is really really really tight so that the copper washer deforms and thus forms a seal within the threads of the master cylinder.  If your body is off this is a lot easier.  If your body is already on, then I would recommend removing the front driver's fender for easier access, obtain a 24mm deep socket and a long extension for your ratchet and then crank that rascal down.  Yes 24mm and it has to be a deep socket to get around the electrical prongs so that you don't damage them.  If all that fails your final two solutions are permatex #2 on the threads or replace the master cylinder.  My guess is, you haven't cranked that switch hard enough to form a seal with the copper gasket.

2

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Transmission

« on: August 30, 2013, 10:03:06 PM »

I was out driving the 3A tonight and here's my new theory.  For whatever reason when I "attempt" to disengage the 4 wheel drive it does not fully disengage, and hence the whine.  Why else would the noise be completely eliminated when I fully engage the 4 wheel drive?  Any thoughts on that theory and if so any suggestions on how to address or determine if that theory is correct?  Thanks,

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Transmission

« on: August 30, 2013, 04:28:58 PM »

One last shot at the above question that is not too clear.

Should the front propeller shaft and its u-joints be exactly parallel and in phase with the rear propeller shaft and its u-joints?

So that hypothetically, should I have four (4) joints on my two propeller shafts pointing at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock and four (4) joints pointing at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock?

Thanks

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Transmission

« on: August 30, 2013, 04:15:15 PM »

Alright I checked the phase of my propeller shafts and here's what I found and now a new question.

Each shaft is in-phase with itself.

However, when the first front shaft connecting to the front differential and it's counterpart connecting to the transfer case is at 1 o'clock and 7 o'clock  the  rear front shaft is at 10' o'clock and 4 o'clock where it connects to the e-brake housing and rear deferential.

When the front first shaft of the u-joint is at 1 & 7 on the dial should the rear first shaft and it's counterpart that connects to the rear differential also be pointing at 1 & 7 on the dial?

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Transmission

« on: August 30, 2013, 03:57:56 PM »

OK I understand now what in phase means.  I'll check that.  It's possible since I didn't know that I re-connected the propeller shafts incorrectly.  You know what they say about learning something new everyday.

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Transmission

« on: August 30, 2013, 03:52:12 PM »

Not sure what you mean when you ask "were the rear u-joints in phase?"  I don't know what "in phase" means.

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Transmission

« on: August 29, 2013, 02:36:34 PM »

Thanks for the offers above.  It's a real puzzle.  I was under it this morning and all looks fine.  I took the suggestion to feel all of the shifters while driving then compare while gliding; when it's making "the noise."  The shifters all felt the same, gliding, driving etc.  No change whatsoever to the feel.  The only thing I noticed when I was under it this morning was the grease spray from the rear u-joint just before the propeller shaft connects to the rear differential.  I'm wondering if that may suggest a bad u-joint and that perhaps that's the cause of the noise.  Any thoughts on that?  Thanks.

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Transmission

« on: August 28, 2013, 10:24:00 PM »

Sorry live in Castle Rock Colorado, just moved from Cin., OH.  Thought I mentioned that above.  Cheers.

9

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Transmission

« on: August 28, 2013, 07:35:14 PM »

Thanks.  And BTW it makes the noise when I'm in overdrive as well.  So you  know anyone in the greater Denver area that you'd trust to look at it?  I don't feel qualified to tear into the transmission.   When I rebuilt my 3A I did everything except the engine, transmission and transfer case.  Go figure.  I guess I can't complain because if I did rebuild engine etc.  the whole project would still be in a million pieces.  At least it's together, now I'd like to solve this problem that I thought I was going to avoid by having a "professional"  address the transmission and transfer case!  Let me know if you have a recommendation for someone in the Denver area.

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Transmission

« on: August 27, 2013, 04:18:02 PM »

I don't have lock out hubs, there is no vibration that accompanies the sound, there are no leeks or puddles.  Just a rumbling noise when I glide in gear.  I think it's the intermediate shaft, and that the shop that I took it to didn't replace it when they rebuilt the transmission.  And replacement looks like a real bi_ _ _ once the tub is back on and I got to tell you I don't plan on taking the tub back off!!

11

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Transmission

« on: August 27, 2013, 10:56:56 AM »

I've completed my CJ3A, and everything seems to work like a charm.  I sent the transmission and transfer case out to be re-built by a transmission shop, but I seem to have a problem.  It shifts fine however, when it's in 2 wheel drive and I either glide in gear or let off the gas in gear there is a loud sound that is not quite a grinding sound, but it does not sound "right."  This does not occur when I'm in 4 wheel drive. During the rebuild I installed an overdrive kit from Herm The Overdrive guy, and it works fine.  At least thus far (200 miles).  The only thing I can think of is that when they rebuilt the transmission they did not replace the main shaft.  Any ideas on how I can troubleshoot this issue, or any suggestions on who I could take it to south of Denver, CO?  Thanks.

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Koenig Hard Top

« on: August 28, 2013, 07:30:22 PM »

When I bought my '49 CJ3A it had a Koenig hard top.  It was the first thing I removed and I have no intention of putting it back on.  To my knowledge the only way that thing goes on and stays on is all those screws drilled through the tub and the top of the windshield.  If you know anyone who wants one please let me know.  I have the doors too and would love to get them out of my barn!  Good luck

13

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Rear Frame Member

« on: June 10, 2013, 12:49:25 PM »

Here are some photos of the rear crossmember and the rivet process

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Rear Frame Member

« on: June 10, 2013, 12:42:09 PM »

My humble recommendation is that you cut the rear member off now.� Frankly, it's all gigged up and it's effectively one of the few aspects of the frame that will always be visible, so I felt when I did mine that I wanted it to look nice and original.� Cut it off, get a replacement from Walcks which may require you to drill some additional holes when it comes time for replacement.� Make sure Walcks sends you the exact duplicate replacement rivets so you can use them to complete the authentic appearance.� As far as how you use those flat rivets, I hand threaded them with a die, 5/16, course thread I think, might have been larger, then used stainless lock washers, and nylon nuts on the back.� So unless you crawl underneath and look, the appearance from the "outside" is identical to the original regarding both the member and it's rivets. I would send you photos of how I did it if I could figure out how to shrink the photos in pc language.  I'm only an apple guy and they make it too easy.  If you send me your email I'll send you some pics.

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: gas line & vacuum/gas pump

« on: June 08, 2013, 09:36:29 AM »

Bob, thanks, I've not got as far as your pictures depict but again I'm stumped from the fuel pump to the carb. Walcks sells a 1 piece pre-bent tube that supposedly runs from the pump to the carb but I can't even begin to see how fits. 
Would you happen to have a photos that follow the last photo in your thread that will take me to the carb connection?  Thanks.