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Messages - Brian M

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1
I hope you are still making these, I would like to get one.

2
And they say old Jeeps can only go 45.

3
Yep, I ran it on an 87 degree day and it had no trouble, even ran through town some and it had no trouble staying at 180 with the fan off.

4
I finally got a new radiator in, what a mess though, do not buy one from prime cooling on eBay. The first one came damaged because their packaging isn�t that great, so they sent me another. Again it came in damaged, this time worse. I contacted them and they wanted to refund me all but $30 and I keep the radiators. I told them I didn�t want to pay for broken radiators I can�t use and just wanted a good one. They said they told ups to be careful with it and wouldn�t send another one, they did refund all my money though. I wasn�t going to let them go to waste so I got the side off and fixed the damaged tube, then had to build new brackets because the ones it has are nowhere near right. It�s all in now and seemed to work fine now.

5
Well I finally got the Weber tuned I think. I started out trying to use the feel method and that didn�t work out that well so I bought an AEM wideband O2 sensor and then I could see what was really going on. I was having a lot of trouble with a hesitation off idle without having to rich of a main jet and ended up changing the F50 emulsion tube to an F6 and that cured it, I want to try an F3 because my gauge still goes a little lean right off idle sometimes but they aren�t available right now.

My original jetting on the primary started out at:
50 idle jet
155 main
160 air correction
F50 emulsion

I�m currently running:
47 idle jet
160 main jet
190 air jet
F6 emulsion
The secondary is:
50 idle jet
165 main
195 air jet
F50 emulsion

When I started out the gauge always read rich (10s and 12s) and I was getting 13.5 mpg, my last tank I got 17.5 mpg and I might get a little more because I went up a size on the air jet close to the end of the last tank of fuel. The air jet actually seems to make quite a difference on mileage. Now the Jeep idles at 12.5-12.7AFR, and when I�m cruising down the freeway it says 14-15 depending on load, unless I�m come to a hill or anything that requires more throttle then it goes back to 12.5.

I�ve driven the Jeep about 1000 miles since I had the valve problem and now the only trouble I have is it trying to get a little warm on the freeway when it gets close to 80 degrees, so I have a new 4 core radiator on its way.


6
Quote
I "second that emotion" as they used to say. Tell us more. Many of us want to keep the old engine but want more power. At least 20 or so HP..

I�m not sure you can get 20hp even with what I�ve done, I saw a guy dyno his Jeep with and without another head like mine and he went from 40-47, that�s probably the biggest gain you will get.

7
Quote
Well, you can usually rely on me for a dumb question. :-?� What are the symptoms of a burned valve?� What problems were you having?

Also, which Weber carb. do you have and will it bolt right up to the stock Willys intake manifold?� Is it an option to the WO or the Solex for us?



Thanks!
The burnt valve started out as a small miss that I couldn�t get to adjust out with the idle mix screw, eventually it got worse until you could feel the Jeep actually moving up and down. At that point I started pulling plug wires while it ran and found out #1 cylinder wasn�t doing much work, the exhaust valve was leaking.

I run a 32/36 Weber. You can buy a kit that is for the Jeep that has an adapter to fit the stock manifold but I thought it was pretty cheesy so I built a new manifold.

8
I�ve driven the Jeep 1,000 miles now. Had a problem about 400 miles in, burnt a valve. I thought it was running lean so I installed a wideband sensor to tell for sure and for the most part I really wasn�t. I actually think the spark plugs were too long, I was running 1/2� reach plugs but with the higher lift cam I actually had 2 spark plugs barely touching the valves and I think it was causing the problem, I pulled it back apart and fixed the valve and also went back the 3/8 plugs and so far no problem. I�ve been messing with the jetting quite a bit but needed more air correction jets for the Weber so I�m currently waiting on those. I will say the Jeep is a goer though, at least for an old Jeep flathead.

9
That could be fun, let me know if you make it down this way.

10
I don�t really have much info, Vic Hickey originally designed them and then Brian Chuchua continued on with them, as for a pattern or mold I�m sure they are long gone, this head was probably built 50-60 years ago. I�m thinking about starting a build thread about the work I�ve done and things that will be coming, maybe some people would be interested.

11
It is pretty cool, I have it all running now and it seems to work well. It runs very well down the freeway, had the needle off the end today getting in front of a semi. It�s hard to say if it�s just the head though, I did a few other things that probably helped too.

12
It�s a Brian Chuchua head, Chuchua is what the lettering says. I got it 20 years ago from a guy I worked with, I thought it was cool so I bought it for $100. Recently I found out it is a high compression head so I dug it out and fixed it up and decided to put it on while I�m fixing a bunch of other stuff. Should go well with my Clifford cam and header, the 32/26 Weber and distributor recurve.

13
"Modifications"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Incites / Aluminum head
« on: October 26, 2017, 12:09:26 PM »
Hi, I thought people might be interested to see this, from what I hear it is quite rare. I haven�t got to run it yet but hopefully soon.

14
BODY and trim / Re: Another seat frame question
« on: January 23, 2018, 02:11:48 AM »
Not too late, any info still helps. Now I know exactly what to look for. Thanks

15
BODY and trim / Re: Another seat frame question
« on: January 15, 2018, 05:00:55 PM »
Looks like that would work just fine for me, I�m not tall so that probably won�t be a problem. Thanks for the picture.

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