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Messages - Weedhopper

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The color is a match to the original, Woodstock Green Poly. I was lucky and found original paint in excellent condition on the lower inside surfaces of the fenders. PPG couldn't locate a paint mix code but they were able to use their color matching scanner on the original paint to come up with a mix. Its a 2 stage base coat - clear coat that we sprayed in an airport hanger.

The tires are 9.00x30 R15 BFG Mud Terrain K/Os, the rims are from a 70's era Scout (That hurts but I like the look).

The two outstanding problems are the clocking of the distributor, I can't get the timing marks to come together. It runs great as it is, smooth and lots of power (for  60 horses). It sounds like I'll have to pull the oil pump and distributor and re-install them in the correct relationship.

The second problem is sloppy steering. I totally rebuilt the steering system from the tie rod ends to the steering wheel. I think its the centering of the worm gear and cross shaft.


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I've owned my CJ3a since high school and been re-building it for the last 3 years. It sat unused for the last 10 years due to various reasons, it's nice to have it running again.

I've never posted pictures so I hope this works.

http://s1135.photobucket.com/albums/m638/53willyscj3a/

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Oil pump was replaced during the rebuild. The motor runs so well as it sits, is there any reason to pull the distributor and oil pump to re-clock them to get the marks to line up? Other than not knowing what the timing is exactly. Being at 6500 feet in elevation being at 5 degrees BTDC is probably not an accurate setting anyway.

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Timing
« on: May 01, 2011, 04:44:13 PM »
After 3 years of rebuilding, I got my jeep running today, started and ran pretty good right off. After setting the idle mixture and rpms. Timing sounded OK, no missing, smooth idle and good acceleration. When I went to check the timing the crank pully mark is about 1/2" from the TDC and 5 degree TDC marks. The distributor is at it adjustment limit to get it any closer. It will adjust back the other direction but the engine looses it timing.
 
I replaced the distributor with an electronic version from Walacks. The engine was rebuilt at a shop, that where the distributor was put in. Is it possible its slightly out of position or 180 degrees off?

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I would recommend replacement, I went through the same flip flop you experiencing when I was rebuilding my brake system. After replacing the wheel cylinders, brake lines and having a choice to rebuild an OK looking master cylinder it didn't seem to make sense not to put in a fresh MC. As the braking system on a CJ3a is marginal when operating at 100%, and given the trouble it is to remove the MC now seems like the time to replace it. All you should have to worry about is the shoe adjustment to have a well operating braking system. Just my 2 cents.  

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The PVC valve was disassembled and cleaned also, but it worth a look to see if its working like it should.

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I disassembled the carb and cleaned it in Berryman Chemtool, it was reassembled with a master rebuild kit from Walacks. It's possible that I have a blockage in the idle circuit.  I'll give that a check. The carbs base gasket is new but worth a check to see it it's leaking. Thanks

8
I reach the stage in my rebuild where I started the engine today. All went well with only one small oil leak at the filter canister, the gasket for the lid was bad. My problem is that I can't get the engine to idle without the choke closed. The idle mixture screw doesn't seem to make much difference wherever it is adjusted. The engine runs smooth at 1000 rpm and up, anything lower it sputters and stalls. I rebuilt the WO carb., with a master kit,  Any ideas?

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Is that a fuel tank filler neck on the right side?

10
Thanks for the photos, this helps alot. Is there a way to access the old postings?

11
I'm to the point in my rebuid that I'm now re-wiring. My question is, Whats the correct routing of the harness from the rear to the main harness as it emerges at the engine bay?  inside or outside the body support bracket, through one of the holes in the bracket? It's been 2 years since I took the original wiring out and the pictures I took don't give me much to go on (neither does my memory).
If anyone has a photo that would be great.

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Thanks for the info. I'll post some pictures as I get closer to having everything reassembled.

13
What is the correct order of assembly for the windshield mounting brackets and wahers? I have a flat washer, a thin tension washer along with the shoulder bolt.
Does one of the washer go under the windshield frame?

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