Messages

1

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: rear axle at wrong angle

« on: January 08, 2014, 01:01:14 AM »

Hey, thanks for the replies.  Unfortunately the jeep is at the ranch a couple of hours away and I won't be able to get any new pictures for a while.  It does seem like the rear axle is not flat when it is sitting on the springs.  The pinion is angled down. 

As soon as I can, I'll take some pics.

Russell

2

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / rear axle at wrong angle

« on: January 04, 2014, 06:03:18 PM »

Hi All,
We have a problem with our jeep.  It is a 56 DJ3A that we converted to a CJ3A when we had to buy a new body a couple of years ago.  It has the L head motor and T90 transmission.  Somewhere along the way it was converted to a 4wd.  I don't know if this was done by changing the frame with all the running gear or just installing a different  trans/transfer and axles. 

The problem we are having is that the angle of the drive shaft is severe enough that at full extension of the shocks the u-joints of the drive shaft hit and bind.  We got around that problem by installing angle wedges between the springs and the axles.  Our issue with this is that it really isn't a durable solution.  Recently the axles moved far enough to let the wedges pop out, with all the issues that come from that.   We've bought new wedges but would rather find out why we need them. 

When we were doing the restoration and conversion we had to replace quite a few parts, including the rear spline yoke coming out of the transfer case.  The seal ride was chewed up so badly that it would not seal anymore.  We also replaced the rear shocks and the spring bushings, and the rubber transmission mounts on the cross member.   The only parts changed on the drive shaft were the u-joints.  These are the only parts I can think of that might affect the angle of the driveshaft.  Would any of these create an issue that requires a 6 degree wedge to prevent binding? 

Any suggestions would be appreciated. 

Thanks

3

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Cleaning the fuel tank

« on: August 19, 2012, 01:41:53 AM »

You probably want to use a solvent to get as much oily gunk out of the tank, but then you should use a Pressure blaster to blast the tank out with water.  Take the fuel sender out so you can work from two inlets and it helps you see where you are blasting.  I rig a 90 degree elbow just before the nozzle on then end of a wand long enough to reach way back into the tank.   That way I can blast into the corners of the tank.  The pressure will blast any loose rust free and generally does a good job getting rid of the last of the varnish residue.  It can take a good while to thoroughly clean every possible nook and cranny in the tank.  Then of course you will need to let the tank dry thoroughly before you close it up.  

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Ammeter Generator Question

« on: October 21, 2012, 02:47:06 AM »

Use a voltmeter to check the voltage at the battery while the engine is running above an idle.  It should be running between 13.5 and 14.2 volts.  Could be that your regulator is keeping the generator too high, overcharging the battery.  

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: piston rings

« on: July 31, 2012, 01:36:28 AM »

On one of the forums, I think it was CJ2A, I saw a thread where a guy described using a grease gun filled with oil and connected to one of the oil gallery plugs.  The oil gauge connection would work.  He used the grease gun to pump oil through the entire oil system before starting it the first time.  Seemed simple enough and a very positive way to prime the bearings before the first start up.  

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Tranny Temp

« on: July 28, 2012, 12:39:15 PM »

Running rich actually makes the exhaust run cold.  If you got enough unburned gas into the exhaust to light off, it would burn with a bang and the engine probably wouldn't run very well.  In a piston engine airplane the carb is adjustable and you adjust the fuel mixture in flight by watching the exhaust temp.  You can raise the temp several hundred degrees by leaning the engine out.  

In my jeep if I drive around the ranch for an hour or so the floor around the pedals can get uncomfortably hot even through my shoes.  A combination of radiator heat and exhaust heat I suppose.  I've never put hands on the transmission after such a run but I would imagine that it is getting pretty hot after a long run as well, just from the heat around it if nothing else.  

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Tranny Temp

« on: July 23, 2012, 02:02:18 AM »

Doesn't sound that warm to me.  If you can hold a finger on it for 2 seconds I'm guessing maybe 150 degrees?  My Chevy truck has a temp sensor on the transmission and it will get up around 200 if I run for a while and if I'm pulling a trailer it will run even hotter.  

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Synthetic oil in a 134-L

« on: March 13, 2012, 10:28:47 PM »

Chevron Delo 400 LE has formulations for older diesels as well as newer ones.  The 15w-40 Multigrade and all the single grades seem to have high percentages of ZDDP.  Check out Chevron's website.  You can see the MSDS's for their different oils.  

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Steering Wheel play.

« on: March 02, 2012, 07:48:14 PM »

The adjustment has to be made with the sector gear centered.  It probably would be easier to make the adjustment with the wheels at least raised off the ground so you can swing the wheel back and forth easier.   If you don't have the sector gear centered and you adjust the play out of it, it will bind when it is centered.  When I've adjusted mine, I've tried to adjust it to the least possible play without any binding in the center when I swing the wheel back and forth.  

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Clutch/Transmission/Bearing Smoke

« on: February 21, 2012, 09:07:07 PM »

Marriage advice is easy.  Always agree with whatever she says.  Even when she says you are wrong.  But of course marriage advice is always wrong anyway.    

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Clutch/Transmission/Bearing Smoke

« on: February 21, 2012, 08:37:34 PM »

My first thought is that the bearing is on the carrier backwards.  That would have the rotating part of the bearing against the back of the carrier instead of against the clutch fingers, and the fixed part attached to the inner race could be rubbing against the fingers.  

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Foaming oil

« on: January 24, 2012, 01:37:27 PM »

Also, if you have a PCV then you should also have the fresh air inlet tube going from the air cleaner into the oil filler tube so that any air taken out by the pcv is replaced with clean air from the air filter.

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Foaming oil

« on: January 24, 2012, 01:28:16 PM »

Check your crankcase ventilation. �If you have a pcv valve it needs to be working or the crankcase will build up condensation in the oil. �It can happen very quickly too if the conditions are right. �Some older engines have a road draft tube instead of the pcv,  that just vents the crankcase to atmosphere. �It needs to be open and clear if you have that. �

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Vibration

« on: January 21, 2012, 01:23:03 AM »

If you can set the jeep up on jack stands you can run it with the wheels off the ground.  That will eliminate the tires being the source of the problem.  You can also watch the drive shaft spin to see if it is bent or anything like that.  

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Vibration

« on: January 18, 2012, 09:22:11 PM »

What speed is your vibration? �Is it real fast like the drive shaft? Or is it much slower? �At 30 mph you are right in the speed where many jeep owners experience the phenomenon known as Death Wobble, or front end shimmy. �It is a much slower, maybe 5 pulses per second, and more violent vibration that jerks the steering wheel back and forth and starts very abruptly. �A driveshaft vibration will be much faster. �Maybe 10 times faster and will start softly and build up as speed increases.