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Messages - JimVillers

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1
Just a dumb question, did you try removing your fuel cap.  You could be starving for fuel after running it a while because the cap vent is blocked.

2
I would start "simple".  Wire from the ignition switch to the coil, remove the ballast resister and the extra wire.  If your coil needs a ballast resister, it will get very hot after about 10 minutes.  You can also check your coil for an internal ballast (4 ohm - ballasted; 0.8 ohm - external ballast).

After it runs, you can figure out the wiring.

3
Ryan .... How "hot" is hot.  Warm to the touch is normal.  Check the resistance with a digital Ohm meter.  It should have an internal ballast resistor and measure 4-5 ohm.  If it measures 1 ohm or less, you have an incorrect coil and it will run VERY hot until it fails.

4
Six weeks later and I am still waiting for my block to be repaired.  When it left the "in waiting" area, the machinist changed his approach.  He felt that since the holes in the block were very round, he decided to do the machining on the camshaft.  He ground down the cam bearings, sleeved the cam bearings to increase their size and then grind down the cam bearings to fit the block.  He said that it was easier to accurately ground down the cam to fit the block than bush the block to fit the cam. 

As you said, there are several approaches to solve the problem.  I'll report oil pressure when the engine is assembled and running.

5
Peter .... I have great confidence in the shop.  They normally work on vintage race engines but also do the one off type of stuff that we hobbyist drag in.  They have all of the fancy stuff like a flow bench for tuning the head to a stationary dyno to run and tune engines before installing them into the car.  There is just not time on the track to break in an engine.

6
Peter ..... Just to provide an update.� We first tried a new cam shaft to see if that might provide a solution.� It picked up a thousandth or two but not enough t get close to the specification.� The block is being sent to another shop to have the journals bored and bronze bushings installed.� They are using bronze because that is what they are familiar with and what they used on a similar jobs on old Triumph engine.


7
Peter ..... It looks like you were spot on.  The cam bearings were VERY loose, .005-.007 or so.  I attached the specifications which show it should have about .001 clearance for the oil film. 

It was good that I pulled the engine, the bearings were already showing some wear from metal-to-metal contact. 

I'll post the fix when my machinist decides on what he will do.

8
Peter .... Thanks; I'll visit my machinist tomorrow to decide on a repair plan.  I'll update your when I learn something.

9
Peter .... Thanks you; an idea and logic that I had not though about.� I will stop by the machine shop on Monday and look at the rear cam "bearing".� It is one of the few items that we have not measured or investigated.�

Finally someone who has experienced the same problem.  There is nothing new with these old engines, only "old" problems that we have not heard about.  I'll post what I find.

10
Hawk .... Good catch, my timing gear oil jet is larger than my largest gauge, 1.5mm (0.06 inches) so I must have a 0.07 jet.� Easy fix.

The end float is an interesting question, I'll measure it tomorrow.� I guess that the idea is that the #1 main lubricates the thrust bearing and if that is too loose, it will loose pressure.�

Oil-Leak .... I blocked off the oil line to the filter and it did not change the oil gauge readings. 

Great thought.� It may not be a single issue but a number of independent items.� I very much appreciate your (plural) comments.

11
I have thought about the float.� It joint seems "loose" since it does not have a seal but I think that joint should be under the level of the oil.� I have another float so I'll clean it up and see how it feels.

Good suggestion.

12
Just to report progress, we pulled the front pulley; first pulling off the sheet metal, then welding a short length of pipe to the remaining pulley hub and welding bolts to the pipe.  See the picture below.  What a B*#. 

Everything looked OK so we pressured the oil system with 20 psi of oil from my pressure beader.  The real oil flow was from the little squirter for the timing gears. 

That leaves the main bearing clearance as the most likely cause of the low oil pressure.      

13
I found a main bearing specification of .001 to .0025.� If that is correct, my bearings are at the outside limit or slightly above.� �If that is the specification I have probably found my problem.� Any thoughts before I get new bearings and have the crank reground?

For background, the block was line bored when all of the other machining was done.  I do not know if that would affect the final bearing clearance.

14
I am still looking for the cause of my low oil pressure.  I pulled the engine; yes there was a gasket under the oil pickup flange.

I checked the bearings and the appear OK; between .002 and 003 inches (I think that that is within spec).   There must be a "smoking gun someplace.   

15
The good and the bad ..... I blocked the oil filter line as suggested with the first oil pressure gauge and it read the same pressure as the dash gauge.  Zero at idle and 20-25 max when reved.

I pulled the pan to inspect the two internal plugs and they were both in place, a slotted plug in the galley and a square head plug in the pick-up. 

Is there a gasket under the pick-up flange?  I don't remember one and it does not look like it has a gasket.  A air leak here could cause a lack of volume.

I am hesitant to pull the front cover to check the front oil squirter which I specifically remember installing and adjusting.  The replacement front pulley is VERY tight and it will be destroyed trying to remove it.

My next step will be to force oil into the system through the oil filter hose to see if there is a big leak someplace.  I plan on adapting my pressure brake bleeder with engine oil.  It will make a mess but hopefully provide some understanding of where the oil is going.  I have never tried this but it sounded like a good idea.
   
After that, we'll measure the main bearing gap with plasti-gauge.  This is not rocket science, just a simple engine and there must be something that is not right somewhere.

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