The CJ3A Page CJ3B.info

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - LeeC

Pages: [1] 2 3 4
1
Pictures are just what I was looking for, thanks. Do you know if the door is the same as the one on an M38 only with out the tabs and is the hinge available somewhere ?

2
I'm looking for a good picture of the windshield vent, mainly the outside and hinges.  Thanks

3
For what it's worth, after being in the building business for 45 years I've learned that sometimes sealer can hold in water that would run right out if it wasn't there and won't leather washers hold moisture? Just questions.

4
I don't know if this is a Meyers or not,� it's on a 47 cj2a.

5
Just for the heck of it do the same thing without the drum, it may be something completely stupid that everyone is missing.

6
The 3M product I'm talking about is for giving that slight texture and chip resistance on rocker panels, it has a texture more like an orange peel. It is kind of like a course eggshell when painted over, I don't know if your supposed to paint over it rite away but if you are I did it wrong, it came out well and never peeled. I think SEM actually makes one that you can tint with your paint and do it all at once. What type of paint do you plan on using (acrylic enamel,urethane,clear coat....)?

7
Go to a place that sells automotive paint and supplies, Look for SEM or 3M. 3M makes a product called rocker panel schutz, it's meant to be painted over, I've used it before with good results. I believe SEM makes a similar product, I've had good luck with their stuff too.

9
I agree the longer the primer sits the better, that lets it shrink into the scratches. I do most of my playing on weekends so stuff has a week to setup. I have some skill and way more time so it works out ok. It took me all winter to do just the model a body and I'm still finishing the hood.

10
No special paint room, I do get some dust from time to time, I have a good exhaust fan though. This car was painted with acrylic
enamel so I could wet sand and buff it. My biggest problem is not knowing when to stop and wet sanding or buffing through a small spot then have to repaint an entire section. Good thing I don't do this for a living, I'd go broke, slow but good results.

11
Yes,  it's a brand new Brookville roadster body. I had to take off all that nasty red primer a lot of fitting and tweaking and then paint. That dark brown stripe was a real pain. This is just a hobby for me, the results were good but I think I painted some parts 5 times (don't tell).

14
Agreed, I think they use that alien blood *crap on the roads up here. Depending on how fussy you plan on being (especially with a dark color) take a little extra time with spots like the hood and top of the fenders. In the right light a little spot can really stand out.

15
Quote
Quote
Looks good, go over it with the DA (at least the parts that show the most) and put a good epoxy primer on it. Sand blasting can leave a course finish, and make sure it is well cleaned. Good luck.

Lee, should I primer first or can I so the body work first. I know back in my day it was a no to put any filler on anything but bare metal. So far I have heard both ways on that along with the seam sealer. I would prefer to DA it and do the filler and seam seal then primer it. Mainly because I have a friend
with� good paint guns and a paint room for that. He says prime but either way
 would be okay as far as he knew since he paints for a hobby. He is pretty
good at it though. Thanks

I like to put filler over bare metal too but I live in Mass. and sandblasted metal tends to rust real quick around here. If rust isn't a problem leave it as is, if not sometimes you have to sand it off where you need to do work.

Pages: [1] 2 3 4