Messages

1

Engine compartment / Re: Fuel tank

« on: June 04, 2022, 08:17:56 PM »

I first reattached my Plastic temporary gas can, and that worked fine. Now that I had gas in the pump and carb, I disconnected the temporary tank and attached the fuel tank. Started right up and ran for 20 minutes, no problem. I think it takes a little more juice than these old fuel pumps have to get it started when the tank is new with that pickup tube. Anyway, running fine now. Thanks for the input.

2

Engine compartment / Re: Fuel tank

« on: May 21, 2022, 06:42:26 PM »

So how do I get fuel flowing?

3

Engine compartment / Fuel tank

« on: May 21, 2022, 05:16:35 PM »

I’ve installed the reproduction fuel tank on my ’53 CJ3A. There is at least a gallon of fuel in the tank, yet nothing comes out the fuel line. A coat hanger stuck up into the tank goes in about 2.5 inches before hitting metal and comes out dry. Anyone know how these are made?

4

Chassis, brakes and suspension. / Pitman arm

« on: August 16, 2021, 04:45:42 PM »

How far should the pitman arm on the sector shaft? I assume it’s not on far enough, but that’s about all I can get.

5

Chassis, brakes and suspension. / Re: Brakes are very Stiff

« on: July 18, 2021, 05:32:49 PM »

Steve,

The tub is not on. So the brake pedal is free, and the 1/2 inch "free play" to the MC piston is not an issue. Once the push rod engages the master cylinder piston, I have about 1/2 inch of movement after bleeding brakes. So when you say, -" To me, a 'properly bled' with 'adjusted to minimum clearance shoes' system, should require not much more than the stated 1/2" MC piston movement. "- that is what I have. I have never had a vehicle without power brakes, so I was concerned when there was very little movement in the Master Cylinder, but apparently, this should be correct.

And I did replace the return springs, and they are indeed quite stiffer than the old ones, which I thought were still serviceable. I will also take Rus' advice and use an assistant to check wheel spin.

6

Chassis, brakes and suspension. / Re: Brakes are very Stiff

« on: July 17, 2021, 05:53:06 PM »

Rus,

So I pumped the brake until I had fluid coming out of the end of each line, then I attached the baggies and pumped about 5 times. I had basically equal amounts of fluid in each bag, which tells me the master cylinder is functioning correctly delivering equal amounts of fluid to each wheel. I also know my lines are clear and clean.

I do have the SM. Been through that.  I have two cams and two eccentrics on each wheel. Since the drums and shoes are new, I set all the adjustments to "loosest" as they can be, and I would work from there.
I understand the 1/2 inch free travel, but the tub is not on. When the bleed screw is open, the master cylinder piston travels easily. When I close the bleed screw, the master cylinder piston barely moves at all.

So I just was wondering if the brakes should be this stiff, or might there be a problem in the wheel cylinders?

7

Chassis, brakes and suspension. / Brakes are very Stiff

« on: July 17, 2021, 04:35:59 PM »

Putting the brakes together on the 53 CJ3A. Everything is stock.  new drums, shoes and master cylinder. Rebuilt the wheel cylinders.  Brake lines installed, but not connected to wheel cylinders. I put a baggie on each of the 4 ends, filled the master cylinder and pumped it 4-5 times.  Got equal amounts of clean fluid in each of the 4 baggies. So the master cylinder works, right? Then I connected the 4 wheel cylinders and tried pumping a few times and I could hardly pump at all.  I went through the bleeding process and got lots of air out, but the pedal, or the master cylinder piston will not move more than about 1/2 inch after closing the bleed screws. I took all the wheel cylinders off and cleaned them out again, reinstalled. pumped the brake pedal without the drums on and I could see the shoes moving. when I put the drums back on, the master cylinder piston still only travels about 1/2 inch. I have never had a vehicle without power brakes before. Is it supposed to be this stiff? If not, any ideas? All that is left is to replace the 4 wheel cylinders, then everything is new, but I don't think they are in bad shape.

8

Electrical Systems / Ammeter wildly fluctuating

« on: July 13, 2021, 08:40:00 PM »

I've started the engine on my CJ3A. I only have the engine on the chassis and a wood cutout attached to the frame for three gauges, oil, temp, and amp.  The Amp gauge needle flies back and forth across the dial when the engine is running. I replaced it with a new amp gauge and it does the same thing. Because it is attached to a wood board, does the amp gauge need to be grounded, as if it were installed in the metal tub? And how wood I connect that? If not, what would make it fluctuate like that.
Thanks

9

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: flywheel tapered bolts

« on: July 15, 2020, 11:08:19 AM »

Update* Since the engine was not really connected to the frame other than the engine mounts, I figured it was easier to just pull the engine and put it on the engine mount. Then I rotated it upside down and removed the pan and rear main cap. Rotating the crankshaft so the stripped tapered bolt is accessible, I was able to give it a light rap with a hammer.  It came out on the fourth light rap.  So now, just for good measure,  I will replace all the bolts. This was much easier than laying on my back trying to remove the rear main cap with the engine in the vehicle. Has anyone replaced these tapered bolts before? Do they just insert, or do they need pressing in?

10

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / flywheel tapered bolts

« on: July 13, 2020, 09:12:07 AM »

I've just mounted the engine to the chassis, no tub yet, and getting ready to mount the Flywheel, I realized the threading on one of the tapered bolts on the crankshaft is stripped.  I know I can get replacement bolts/dowels/pins, whatever they're called. But can I remove and replace the old one without removing the Crankshaft?  Is re-threading this bolt a possibility? I assume the bolt was originally pressed in from the engine side of the crankshaft before the crankshaft was installed.

11

Engine compartment / special tapered manifold washers

« on: June 03, 2020, 07:28:29 PM »

I recently came across a post on Facebook about installing the manifolds, and someone said "don't forget the tapered washers for the manifold studs". I could not find any mention of these in the service or parts manuals. I searched most website parts places and found them only at KaiserWillys. They are called "Exhaust Manifold special tapered washer" for the 4-134 L engine.  This is the first I have heard of these, and needless to say, I did not use them.  Does anybody else know about these and their purpose?

12

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Radioactive Gauges?

« on: March 21, 2020, 08:30:11 AM »

Moving on to my original gauges, I have seen on the G503 site that the military jeeps have Radium in the white paint to make them glow.  Is this also true of civilian jeeps, specifically my '53 CJ3A? Should I bother to even try to clean them up or take them apart? Has anyone else taken them apart?

13

Electrical Systems / Horn Rebuild?

« on: March 16, 2020, 09:52:50 PM »

I bench tested the horn and it didn't work. So, I took it apart and found the piece between the metal points is broken. I Searched the net for a couple of hours and could not find any parts for these.  Does anyone know if these horns have new guts available anywhere?

14

Engine compartment / Re: Vacuum Wipers

« on: March 04, 2020, 08:46:18 PM »

I'm still restoring and installing a rebuilt double action fuel pump. Close to the point of putting this all together. That triple hose connector that was on this intake just looked strange and I am not quite sure how these vacuum wipers hook up. But those pics help. Mine does have driver and passenger side vacuum wipers, if that makes a difference.

15

Engine compartment / Vacuum Wipers

« on: March 03, 2020, 09:09:12 PM »

This is a picture of the doodad that was attached to the intake manifold when I pulled the CJ3A out of the field. There were 3 vacuum lines off this. two went to the in and out fittings on the vacuum section of the fuel pump. The middle thicker one was just hanging.  I would assume this went to the wipers.  Does anyone else have this kind of setup? Does it seem right? How does everyone else's vacuum wipers hookup?