Messages

1

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Pinion preload 27 in/lbs

« on: June 29, 2014, 08:00:32 AM »

Thanks for the replies.� Yes, I did have an oil slinger right behind the pinion.� $25 seems a bit steep for a glorified washer.� Maybe try Willys Jeep Parts in AZ.� I ordered felt seals for my yokes, but I don't believe that there was one on my front diff.� The dust shield is way too small for one.
John

2

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Pinion preload 27 in/lbs

« on: June 28, 2014, 05:13:42 PM »

The original gear set was made by Salisbury, the replacement by Spicer.� I got it from Herm.� The spacer is shown in some Dana 25 diagrams and not in others.� I found one at Willys Jeep Parts in AZ.� That appears to be the only difference between the two.

3

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Pinion preload 27 in/lbs

« on: June 28, 2014, 07:35:05 AM »

Hi,
Finally getting around to buttoning up my Dana 25, and have run into a few snags.� I had to purchase a used ring and pinion since my original was shot due to water damage.� The original pinion had a squared shoulder for the preload shims to ride on, the replacement requires a spacer.� The shims in the front end kit, however, are diametrically too small on the OD to contact much of the spacer.� They also came in only .010 and .015.� I did use them in conjunction with my original shims to fid the proper stack, and hence my dilemma.� A .003 change will take me from about 7-10 in/lbs to 27 in/lbs. I stuck with the 27, since my manual specs 15-25.� I guess I am used to worn out diffs that spin like a roulette wheel, because 27 in/lbs seems tight.� I can spin it with two fingers, but there is certainly some resistance.� With the seal and carrier installed, my total resistance is 37 in/lbs.� All bearings are new, and I am looking for some opinions on the pinion preload.� Run it, or come up with a different solution?
Thanks,
John

4

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Front Frame Repair

« on: March 22, 2014, 10:37:10 AM »

BTW, athawk11, I am replacing all of it on both sides with 1/8" plate.� I was hoping to eliminate any unnecessary holes, and weld capture nuts in the places that will need anything mounted.� I'm also thinking of possibly putting a piece above each rear spring hanger, and boxing from the front crossmember to the bumper area in prep for a future winch mount.� My hopes of an original resto are out the window on this one due to the hodge podge of parts, so I'm going to build it with the intent of using it for hunting and fishing with my boys.� I can do an original style resto with the next one.

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Front Frame Repair

« on: March 22, 2014, 10:30:17 AM »

Hi Guys,
Those pics help a lot!.� Given our weather here in Upper Michigan, my project is on hold till spring.� Did a days worth of cutting and welding about a month ago, and I really need to take this project outside due to the smoke and fire hazard.� Looks like I'll be picking up a few parts jeeps this spring also, so I should have a comparison.� I've been taking pictures, and will post when I am done.� "athawk11", do you have a link to your green ODie build?� I searched here and the 2A forum, and can't find anything.� Great job!

John

6

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Front Frame Repair

« on: March 20, 2014, 09:03:25 AM »

Hi Guys
I am in the process of doing some frame repairs, including making new inner boxing portions behind the front crossmember, and was hoping someone had some pictures of the inside and outside of their stock frame.  I guess I need to know what holes are stock and what have been added over the years.  My body is old aftermarket, so I am not sure which holes are required for toe board brackets and fender braces etc. in a stock application.  Pictures and any input appreciated.
Thanks
John

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Rear Ccrossmember insert

« on: February 16, 2014, 06:22:45 PM »

Thanks.  Lots of good info there.

8

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Rear Ccrossmember insert

« on: February 09, 2014, 07:29:17 AM »

Guys,
Got my 3A down to the frame for some minor repairs before the blast shop gets it, and have a question regarding the insert for the rear crossmember.  Both are Classic Enterprises stuff.  The crossmember is a no brainer, with all of the rivet holes lining up, but the insert is another story.  None of the holes match the crossmember, and the bottom looks like it may need a bit of trimming to fit between the bottom of the frame rails.  I called and asked, and was told that it may need to be slightly modified to fit and that it isn't meant to sit inside the rails, just between them.  Seeing as mine had a c-channel bumper and these parts were missing, I have nothing to compare it to.  So, is the insert riveted to the crossmember, bolted or what?  I'd also like to fab the plate between the drawbar and crossmember, and would like to know if it was riveted or welded.  If anyone would have some pictures of how these items are assembled,
I'd appreciate it greatly.
John

9

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Rebuild Americar or not?

« on: February 16, 2014, 06:22:08 PM »

I think so, Bruce.  Thanks anyway.

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Rebuild Americar or not?

« on: February 09, 2014, 07:17:49 AM »

Hi Bruce,
I'm interested.  I'm located in Upper Michigan.  How about you?
John

11

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Rebuild Americar or not?

« on: February 08, 2014, 07:56:32 AM »

Hi Guys,
I see mention of the cooling system upgrades in later years.� What exactly were the improvements?� Everyone also seems to prefer the gear drive to the chain, but I guess I'm not seeing the problem.� Timing chains have been used forever.� I won't know till April if my new engine in cosmoline lead pans out, and if it doesn't, my other local leads are drying up.� Lots of rusty hulks that sellers can't decide a price on.� The Americar ran like a champ, and I'm thinking of picking up a later ribbed Willys stamped head with the three bolt thermostat housing to install on it if I get it redone.� The internet info I'm seeing says it should work.� If there are any inherent mechanical or reliability drawbacks that anyone is aware of, other than not being correct for this application, I'd like to know.� Otherwise, the new head would pass the ten foot test.� Thoughts appreciated.� BTW, what's the going rate for a good head with thermostat housing?
Thanks,
John

12

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Rebuild Americar or not?

« on: February 04, 2014, 11:29:24 PM »

Thanks for the info.  I'm getting some prices on some rough parts jeeps right now.  I also have a lead on some Willys parts from a guy at work, one of them a long block he claims is still in cosmoline.  He said his neighbor's son is retiring and the 80 year old father wants his crap out of his garage.  Can't vouch for that lead until I see it myself.
Thanks
John

13

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Rebuild Americar or not?

« on: February 04, 2014, 11:59:30 AM »

Can't find much info.  My gut tells me they won't.

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Rebuild Americar or not?

« on: February 04, 2014, 10:42:44 AM »

Hi
In another thread you guys determined my engine was a 1941 Americar.� I am thinking of sending it off to the machine shop for a total overhaul, carb to oil pan.� This will go in my unoriginal 1953 3a and I plan to drive it a bunch.� Since I'm looking for a driver and not doing a period correct restore, is there any reason to not go this route?� Will the later Go Devil bolt ons, such as intake, exhaust, etc bolt on with no issues?� �Thanks again.� BTW, the bearings are split shell and not babbited.
John

15

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Engine date 1940?

« on: January 19, 2014, 07:16:40 PM »

Two bolt thermostat housing.  Rods have inserts and aren't babbited, so that's one plus.