Messages

1

Your DJ-3A Project / Re: 1956 DJ3A "Patterson"

« on: October 15, 2026, 04:56:46 PM »

Ah....
Ok, googled and it pointed me to a thread of 48willys' DJ rebuild on the CJ2A forum (I've been following along over there and his posts here) but there a comment was added by 47 deuce alpha, 11 Nov 24):

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/dj3a-build_topic54377.html

Is that what it's supposed to look like?

I also forgot that 48willys got around to making his own (14 Dec 24):

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/dj3a-build_topic54377_page2.html

What are the dimensions?

2

Rambling, Malarky, Rants, Etc... / Re: eWillys ???

« on: October 15, 2026, 01:55:24 PM »

This has been a topic on multiple forums.  I noticed a mostly empty site myself a while back and then a topic popped up on the CJ2A forum. 

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/ewilly-content-update_topic56321.html?KW=ewillys

That thread had this link added to explain.  It was from the new owner of the eWillys, Tim.

https://www.oldwillysforum.com/forum/index.php?threads/ewillys-update.30823/page-9#post-449187


They seem to be sorting through it all.  Still missing a lot but he's assured everyone the files are safe.


https://ewillys.com/classic/

3

Your DJ-3A Project / Re: 1956 DJ3A "Patterson"

« on: October 08, 2026, 02:13:23 PM »

That's a healthy collection of stickers!

What does the air filter top (that you want) look like?

4

Your CJ-3A Project / Re: New acquision, Lost Biscuit

« on: October 06, 2026, 03:17:45 PM »

Is it my imagination or are the headlights smaller than typical? 

5

Once You've Joined / Re: I'm 6'3" and I want a jeep!

« on: October 01, 2026, 02:45:43 PM »

Welcome!

I'd say, maybe.  You didn't mention your location.  There are jeeps to be had. Fully restored can be advertised for more than your budget and projects in varying degrees of completeness can come in a large spread for the asking amount.  Posting where you are, may produce an offer close by.

Some here will advertise the need to sell and they'd be in great shape, timing plays a part. 

It sounds like the interior dimensions will be a factor.  Military and CJ-2A jeeps have a little less leg room.  The 3As and 3Bs have a bit more leg room (the wheel wells were shortened and the seats pushed back, I think I remember 2 inches).  I think the early CJ-5 has the same leg room (I read the 3A/3B seat frames are the same as in the CJ-5.

Finding a rebuilt/reliable driver will be the challenge - the more time you have, the better chances of finding what you want.  Changing your level of "current condition" can also affect options.

There are multiple places to check.

Here, in the Classified Ads section.  See what has been posted and even add your Want To Buy ad.
(I counted 5 jeeps advertised for sale since 2023).

eWillys (offline for maintenance right now - good location to filter for the model)
https://www.ewillys.com/

I remember reading multiple Facebook sites hosting jeep sales.

Also, Oldtime who's posted here often has advertised his 3B

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/1953-cj3b_topic55244.html

as of May 2026, it was still available.  I think it's in Missouri.

Good luck!

6

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Electrical Damage?

« on: September 28, 2026, 04:38:13 PM »

I had to sift through your posts to verify your year.  You’ve got a 1954 with separate gauges, right?  (you should put that in your signature block)  ADDED:  Then I see you did! 

To me, a spark like that indicates a circuit.  Something was connected and that caused a spark once the battery was added to that circuit.  Are there any other wires at the positive terminal, i.e. fog/driving lights? Fused? 
Depending on the damage, the battery post could have severed (melted) inside the case, or you just took off a bit of surface on the terminal. 

The original jeep wiring couldn't be much simpler than it is.  The only "fuse" is the circuit breaker on the back of the light switch.  How long did the reversed battery stay connected?  Again, to me, if the key is off, then there shouldn't be any electrical flow to the coil and the distributor.  That should only happen when you switch to "on" for the start.  But a good check would be to look under the instrument panel.  The power routes through the Ammeter to the switch.  Are there any wires touching another terminal or missing insulation against metal?

Is the starter original or aftermarket with a solenoid?  In the past, have you ever had issues starting?

If I were doing this, I'd try a spare battery in the jeep (if you have one).  If not, WEAR EYE PROTECTION (I've had a battery explode on me and it hurts), suspect a disconnect inside the battery until you prove otherwise. The chemistry inside the battery produces hydrogen gas - which itself is flammable. I'd check the battery to see if it has at least 12V.  Wiggle each terminal to see if there's any play.  If either of those tests don't pass, get another battery.  Next, I'd connect the positive first.  Then tap the negative cable end to the terminal.  If no sparks, connect the cable (you can connect remotely, i.e. jumper cable to the frame but if the severe is inside the battery it won’t matter – this is recommended when jumping a battery). 
What is the ammeter showing (center or discharge)?  Another quick peek under the instrument panel at the wires.  Turn the ignition switch on to see if the gauges work, i.e. fuel and a little amp wiggle towards discharge.  Try a crank test. 

If nothing, turn on the lights and try a start again.  If the lights stay steady with no crank, there may be a connection break to the starter.  If the lights go real dim, I suspect the starter is dragging and will need rebuilding/replacing.

If you get a crank, hopefully it starts.  Watch the ammeter to see if it starts with a discharge and jumps to charge (above idle).  If so, I’d suspect the regulator is still working. 

Remember the eye protection.  Can this be done outside of your garage?  I’m thinking about acid spray in case the battery does explode (worse case).  Outside you have a hose to dilute and none of your other garage items get sprayed.

p.s. If it does explode, hose down everything.  The liquid is sulfuric/water (electrolyte).  Did I mention it hurts?

7

Buy, Sell, Trade / Re: GP, GPW, and CJ3B auction in MN

« on: September 22, 2026, 04:35:35 PM »

Wow!  The prices! 

8

Website Feedback / Re: Post Count Not Working

« on: September 14, 2026, 03:08:53 PM »

I just did a completely un-scientific observation.  Since the counter is stuck, I went to my profile and clicked on that little link for "Show Posts" to show all the posts I've made since being here.  Of course it numbers everything backwards, i.e. the last post is #1, but clicking on the last page, the display says I've made 1,369 posts. 

I guess after this post, I'll have 1,370...

9

Website Feedback / Re: Post Count Not Working

« on: September 11, 2026, 08:04:44 PM »

tow hook,
Did you try the same test above?  Pascal noted his count, then posted to see the increase.  Perhaps your total is low based on the glitch that was reported by Stingray 2 yrs ago.  Pascal must've made an adjustment back in June.  I'm posting to check my own to see if they increased.

Mine did not.  Stuck at 339.

10

Buy, Sell, Trade / Re: Matching Engine

« on: September 08, 2026, 12:29:42 PM »

I see this is your first post!  Welcome!

Currently, does your CJ-3A have an engine?  It almost sounds like you may not. What about the rest of the drivetrain?

If the company you're corresponding with is state-side, they should absolutely have documentation on the L-head - and its multiple applications.  If they are overseas, I'm just going to say, "Buyer Beware."  With overseas, you could finally get the engine but may still end up with a pricey boat anchor or still have to spend extra to get it to fit and work.

But to answer,

Pictures are great.  The phrase, "A pictures speaks a thousand words," comes to mind.

The Service Manual is great for understanding/repairing but most of the images within are exploded or cutaway.  It may be that you'll need some data on the engine from the "Specifications" section, Section D.  Have you scoured the 3A page, the 3A info page?  You may find some engine images embedded within.  Also, there are some images on the CJ2A Forum since they also use the flat-head engine.

An alternative...

It sounds like you don't want to, or can't, do any engine refurbishing.  You can get a used engine that may just drop in and run.  Or you may find one that is in desperate need of rebuilding. 
Having a known CJ3A/CJ2A engine with all the attachments needed to function in your jeep may be worth the trouble - even if it needs rebuilding. 

Your post didn't give any insight as to where you intend to go with your project.  Some want a 12V conversion with an alternator.  Some have even stuffed a 134 F-head under the hood, both with and without cutting the hood.

Share more information including where you're thinking about getting this engine from as well as your general location.  Others here may be able to provide you with better intel on where you are and where you want to be, or there may be a nearby neighbor who has a spare engine in the barn. 

I mention this as there is a Fall Reunion approaching fast and there was a member on the 2A forum who stated he had 2 spare engines.

Can you post an image of your jeep?

11

BODY and trim / Re: CJ3B cavas top and doors

« on: September 04, 2026, 05:01:24 PM »

KW has some but a bit pricey and they don't look like they'd fit a 3B.

I checked and it appears that GIS has bows and door frames.  If they're the same door frames as other offerings, they're probably foldable - making shipping a bit easier.  And they may still need some alterations.


When you contact them, ask to see if just the door frames can be included in your order for a top.   Ensure the hinge post measurements on those frames will work.

12

BODY and trim / Re: CJ3B door channel bolted onto cowl replacement needed

« on: September 04, 2026, 04:42:23 PM »

Oops, my bad!  Says right in your first post, "bolts to the cowl"

I got real lucky and visited a junk yard in Oklahoma and got a pair off a 3B tub just sitting on the ground.  Mine measure 13.5" end to end.

Yes, those are available too.  But my critique on name and part number still applies:

https://www.kaiserwillys.com/products/us-made-lower-door-frame-rope-channel-pair-fits-49-53-cj-3a-m38/

Call and verify first they're 14" long.  I have no idea how a product can be between 9" and 14"  **Could they maybe have a long and a short version and just don't know enough to figure out they may be for two different models???

If those are too short, these for an M38A1 could be used (may need to alter the mounting strip to ensure it reaches the cowl holes - then cut to size):

https://www.kaiserwillys.com/products/us-made-upper-door-frame-rope-channel-pair-fits-52-66-m38a1/

Hope this helps a bit more.

13

BODY and trim / Re: CJ3B cavas top and doors

« on: September 04, 2026, 03:33:21 PM »

RK,
Reading the threads on GIS, you'll pick up on fitment and how it looks on the jeeps that ordered.  These are going to be close to original, but I see some differences.

Those guys seem to be really anxious to work with customers.  It seems the changes pointed out were all addressed.  As I gathered, they will bend over backwards to accommodate.  Do you already have the bows and door frames?

Contact them to find out if they need (or will take from you) measurements to ensure it fits. 


Did you read the thread where JPET will be making tops again?

https://classicjeeptops.com/

14

BODY and trim / Re: CJ3B door channel bolted onto cowl replacement needed

« on: September 04, 2026, 01:15:43 PM »

I fried a few brain cells trying to find them thinking, surely the vendors will call it by its name: Retainer, door curtain, or use the Willys part number: 681373 (L), 681374 (R)

Nope.

Then I dropped a few search words and found a very familiar post right here on this forum:

https://www.cj3apage.com/Forum/index.php?topic=5547.0

It appears KW DOES have them, but leave it to the experts to change the name and the part number (yeah, I forgot I posted this).



Originally, these were spot welded to the inside of the frame.

Measuring my original w/s frame, the retainers are 20.5" from top to bottom.  That initially makes sense since the 3A w/s frame is taller than the 3B frame.  I would think cutting them to size should work just fine.  Just make sure the top hinge is at the correct height so the door frames sit like they should.

15

Once You've Joined / Re: Welcome PoconoChris

« on: September 03, 2026, 12:34:41 PM »

It worked!   That's a fine specimen!