The CJ3A Page CJ3B.info

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - 1oldracer

Pages: [1] 2 3
1
Well John, you were and are correct.  Used the left notch and the left side of the timing tab and all of the reference points (distributor oiler at 2 o'clock, points tab just starting up the hill on the disty lobe for number 1 at 5 o'clock) were good and he fired right up and idled even while the engine was cold.  So that is one mystery solved.  Now, if anyone else searches for the same application on their own engine, take a minute and message me and tell me what kind of engine they have.  I bought this one sight unseen and while it is actually better than advertised there are no numbers anywhere on it to identify what it was when it was new.  It has a late MB head, chain drive, 129 tooth ring gear and a bell housing with two rectangular holes, one in each side with the drivers side being the opening for the clutch fork and a cover over the passenger side opening, and a bull nosed starter.  And don't forget the timing cover tab and dual notched crank pulley.  The front engine plate dropped right into the stock 2A motor mounts - oopps, wrong forum  ::) but hey, I have a 3A windshield!!

2
Thanks John.� That was going to be my first try but I was a little put off by the timing tag which is marked for 5 degrees on one side and TDC on the other.� Seems logical to line up the left notch with the left side of the tab and if that doesn't work at least I have other options like left notch - right tab, right notch - left tab, right notch - right tab� :D

3
Just replaced to old distributor and brushed up on the static timing operation and THEN I discovered two notches on the crank pulley where I was expecting only one.� Little help please - Yes Rick, I have a 50-50 chance to get it right the first time� :) But then I won't know what the other one is for.

4
I had the same experience with some CRC straight GL4 oil.  Back of the bottle said it wouldn't hurt yellow metal but they too lied.  It wasn't in there long because I found a thread that talked about the misleading claims that different manufacturers make.  There was a slight amount of brass color, like Carlsjeep, but any is too much.  I'm back to the mineral oil but if I lived farther north I would have to look a little closer because I'm sure the cold weather would have to be taken into consideration.  It got down into the low 40's (BRrrrr) here and I noticed a difference in the shifting.  I just read a post on the new members forum about a member driving his new jeep at -27 in CANADA - THAT SHOULD BE SOME KIND OF A RECORD.

5
Hi Tim, I doubt that a CSI could raise any numbers off of the block.  The head has the Willys and the Jeep raised names and all I can see below the oil filter bracket are the numbers 639....C.  I'm thinking it is 1952 ish because of the 129 tooth ring gear and the cone nose starter.  I wish I had all the info so I could put it in the data base but I reckon it won't happen.  Thanks for offering the help.

6
This may be an example of what Bob W is talking about.� This bell housing has an identical rectangular hole on the other side but it has a metal cover for it.� It has always bugged me that there was no boot for the clutch linkage so I have gone with the "it will fall out through the hole on the bottom" idea.� No problems so far.� Some PO did a wonderful job of removing all identifying numbers from this engine so I can only speculate as to its original ID.� 129 tooth flywheel is a clue.

7
I was looking into some posts on this subject of body insulators and I can't remember who posted it but it was one of those - Oh man, I should have thought of that moments.  He said he went to the sporting goods store and bought a roller like you would put on a boat trailer to guide the boat on with and then he just used a band saw and cut off whatever size piece he needed like cutting cookies off a tube of cookie dough.  Neat idea  ;)

8
Hi Paul, I may have given you a bum steer on the relative size of a couple of bolts on the flywheel.� 1.� I was thinking about my flywheel which is from a M38 and may be different from yours.� 2. I'm not kidding about the "old" part of my forum name� ;)

9
Hi Paul, I was just looking over your posts and I remembered something that one of the guys said when I was first asking about removing the flywheel - remove the nuts holding it on but leave the two big ones loose but still on their bolts to keep the flywheel from ending up in your lap or crashing to the floor when it pops off as it will probably be a lot heavier than you expect it to be.  Good luck

10
Hi Paul, A regular engine stand should bolt up to the back of the engine.� It just depends on what you want to work on.� You might need a cradle if you are working on the flywheel and things.� I made one out of some old angle iron and a furniture dolly.

11
And don't forget surface preparation.  Its such a treat to watch a nice clean painted letter bubble up and dribble away - don't ask how I know!

12
Hi Mark, Don't despair.  With all of the mechanical knowledge available on the forum I'm sure it won't be long and the problem will be history.  Unfortunately I am a little short on mechanical knowledge so I have to rely on experience.  I had the same exact problem.  Just before I launched into a major money spending search for the cure my Willys embarrassed me in front of my friends by not starting and I got mad and thought, "OK you little bleep take this," and I stomped the foot feed to the floor with my left foot and hit the starter with my right and it fired right up.  It works for me every time.  If you haven't tried it, give it a shot. It would be a cheap fix.  Good Luck  

13
I should have said right side up or down rather than on backwards. I put it on upside down and set the tub down and put in all the spacers and bolts and then discovered that the shaft and lever thingy wouldn't clear the exhaust manifold.  With only two bolts holding the bracket to the engine block the hole spacing is the same either way so the pivot for the cross shaft can either be the right height or the wrong height.  I really hadn't planned on admitting my stupidity but in the interest of maybe helping out another Willys owner I have swallowed my pride.  But the time I forgot about the left hand threaded lug nuts - now that will remain a secret  :-X  

14
Some of us forgot the sneaky little foot feed from the bracket on the back of the engine block.  Which bracket ,by the way, can be put back on upside down  :-[

15
Gotcha.  I shouldn't post things at 2:11 A.M.  Got carried away with the whole idea and the results you are getting from it.  I  could just sell what I have and be ready to buy the "kit" when you have it on the market  :).

Pages: [1] 2 3